tjm

kinda illegal isn't it?

Poachers have killed bears there in the past, so how is another one news worthy? is it in town or did it attack someone? As the bear herd grows to huntable numbers the sightings will grow more frequent, no doubt. But in some parts we have always had bear sightings and occasional depredation of live stock. not really a big deal.

Yes, it needs to be the adhesive shrink tubing and it also would need to shrink down to near the hook shank diameter. Very likely what you used did not shrink small enough. There are some variety packs on Amazon, since the size needed is unknown they might be the best starting point. https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-270Pcs-Shrink-Adhesive-Tubing/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528536557&sr=8-3&keywords=red+1%2F8"+adhesive+shrink+tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6EFUKR?aaxitk=6Mr7UYIzQy7XDbe4gv.ZiA&pd_rd_i=B01N6EFUKR&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3930100107420870094&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=red+1%2F8"+adhesive+shrink+tubing&hsa_cr_id=8031087150401 To get a two feather effect and make fiber distribution easier, try clipping the stem so the tip of the feather falls out leaving a V or Y of fibers attached to a stem butt that will draw them through the tubing collar. A small piece of foil could hold the fibers in place behind the collar and shield them from the heat at the same time. Use an Indian hen neck hackle and clip the stem just where the webby stuff starts (or use the butts from flymph ties) I think cut the collar length and work it onto the hook from the point, then pulling the stem all the way through the collar before shrinking will make it easier to distribute the flues and adjust their length. It might pay to look at one of Jones' jigs to see if he use the hen neck dull side out or shiny side out, I would guess he had the stem on top of the hook and dull side up. Chose the hackle from the base of the hen neck to get a broader feather with longer flues. This gets the slightly webby but still springy fibers needed and it is hen hackle. I think less is more in this case...

http://stonecreekmo.com/index.php/contact-us

From a marketing point of view, that fabled durability of the Jones jig is kinda a negative, I'd think. I have not used it, but I see a down feather sold in catalogs as "chickabou" that might be suitable for a sparser tie. (apparently comes with hen saddle, so could be called hen hackle?) I might look for less webby type down to help the sparse look as well. The 10X is not that much off to my eye. It does look like a different hook and is a bit fuller in the skirt. Awaiting the lake test results.

yep, that's the words I was looking for, right there. I'm not at all familiar with the location in question, but in the photo it looks like a bank or a pier right behind that offensive boat; that puts both (or all three boats) within bank casting range, as pointed out by MoCarp, in terms of etiquette, good manners and the golden rule, all boats that get in the way of bank fishermen are grossly at fault. There is a whole lake out there and the boat is designed to go away from the bank. I have to say this, most all the anglers and fishermen i have encountered over my life time were not only courteous but often helpful. Boat people on the other hand are most often not only rude, but also arrogant. When I see a boat with fishing gear on board, I wonder "are those people fishermen or are they boat'oles ". I really really have issues with any one that is comfortable with throwing a noticeable wake anywhere near the bank or near smaller boats.

Does appear larger, but I figured that could be in using a different camera. Or a different pixel count or some other computer related majik. Name of that new jig can be the "10X" or use Roman numerals "X X" . Them microwaves smell the whole house up when that happens.

Yet you would attempt to endanger people with deliberate "hot laps"? Said some thing about if you couldn't have it all then no one else could have any? 😀

One of the most productive nymph and bobber indicator trout catchers that I ever watched at RRSP used a level leader/tippet about three feet long knotted directly to his fly line, he said that tapered leaders and tippets were only necessary for dry fly fishing. Many bass and pan fish anglers just tie a piece of mono on the fly line and catch fish.

Done right either way can catch fish, but tying with the tip of the heavy line and the butt of the tippet will make the result nearly straight, where as tying butt and butt will leave an elbow at the knot. Try both ways with some spare mono. http://www.animatedknots.com/surgeonsjoin/index.php Blood knot is a good leader building knot if you are good with it, any knot tied in mono needs to be wet when pulling tight. I have only used the Albright knot for attaching line to backing and didn't much like it for that. An alternative is tie a loop in the leader and a loop in the tippet and interlock the loops. Or: https://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/orvis-tippet-knot

That's just an insomniac's take on it. Somewhere in the history of fly fishing I've read that jigs are classed by weight of the head; truefully, I have never weighed a jig and have felt that the nominal weights were approximate, but, Mr. Jones also claimed a 1/500oz jig and at such small weights (.002 oz or 0.875 grain)( it would seem the hook might outweigh the head) I would think accuracy of the guess must be inherently closer. The idea of such tiny jigs is kinda on the edge of "I don't believe it" or "Why bother" to me. Some one said they sink fast, how fast? Is there a real world difference between 3' per second and 3.2' per second? A floss body over ten or so turns of lead trolling line core sinks like stone but with a turn of starling hackle will sink a tiny bit slower and catch more fish. How deep do you fish these, anyhow? I do attribute the durability of them in part to the small weight, no matter how fast you throw one the impact force is almost nothing because of almost no mass. Added to that, what looks like a plastic sleeve collar and body would take a bit more abuse than some other body types. Now I really want a couple to mess with.

Ever throw all those fillets in one freezer bag rather than keeping then separated by who caught what? ever not label the freezer bag with date of catch and who caught it? Ever see one guy at the trout park filleting three or five limits of trout and putting them all in the same bag? I think a lot of times the agents let things slide because they have bigger things to worry about or are plain overworked and don't want to spend another day in court.

Guess, I was maybe 30 the first time I saw a fish fillet that wasn't store bought. Dad, would scale gut and behead the 5-6" bluegills and black perch and fry so crisp that you could eat them bones and all. I still equate fillets with frozen store bought fish, even if I do the filleting I know they are inferior somehow.

I'm one of those who never learned to fish the jig and bobber, so my offering would likely be a spider on a floating line. Nah, 109 jigs per oz and at $126 per jig that renders $13,734 per ounce.

Not sure what you want the math for? Bill's gives how flies per ounce (not sure why this matters?) 1/256oz = .0039oz = jig head = 1.70898438 grains jig head + Hook + paint + dressing = .0092oz= 4.025grains 1oz/.0092oz = 108.69 or ~ 109 jigs per ounce and ~1739 jigs per pound (fwiw) If the jig head weighs .0039 it's very likely that the finished lure weighs .0092 or roughly 2.3 times what the head weight is By simple proportion the 1/156oz (.0064oz) heads should dress to ~ 2.3589 X 1/156 = .0151oz or 6.61 grains And there would be ~66 jigs per ounce or 1059 jigs per pound There are 7,000 grains in a pound. A Daisy BB weighs ~ 5.386 grains , a lead BB ~6.25 grains and shot approximately equivalent to the half jig head would be #7 bird shot and the cavity needed would 0.10" diameter. A 0.245" diameter cavity should approximate the 1/156oz head- #3 buck is just a bit bigger

You can set your personal length limit at 12" if you want more meat. Wait, 14" may work better for you personally they will have more meat at 14".

My beard is short and my granddaughter is too old. Y'all have fun with it.

Lower pic, would be the right side of reel, appears to have a black knob in center that should tighten the drag in cw direction, I think. This will only act as a brake on the spool, it won't let the spool slip in the way a spinning reel would. Tighten, and pull line and tighten and pull line til you are happy with the result. If that acts the Cabela's reel I had it should lock up at some point of knob turning. In the center of the right side, handle side is a spring loaded release that will let the spool come off the frame, so that you can clean or lube the innards or change to a spare spool with a different line on it. pressing the little slid thing either in or out will release the spool, maybe looking at it open will give a better notion of what is going on with the drag. That reel looks like you can palm the spool rim to increase drag if wanted. I didn't keep the Cabelas reel very long and am going on memory, so might be off a bit, give it a try.

yes and no and it depends........ some of the simplest reels are click pawl drag and not really adjustable, some reels have an adjustable brake shoe kinda drag in addition to the pawl and some have a sort of disc brake system and there may be some that either I haven't seen or don't remember. ahh, yes, the automatic reels wind the spring as the line is pulled out effectively getting tighter in a braking fashion. If we either had a picture of the reel or the brand/model - then we could tell you what you can or can not adjust.

I'd like to have couple to look at, maybe dissect one, most of the little I know about tying I learned by reverse engineering. There may be more to that little jig, it appears to have a clear tube over the collar. If so that clear tube would be the thin wall without adhesive , I think. The head is outside my skill set and obviously of his own design.

Gavin, start the tube over the feather, then over the hook, pull the feather until the stem is under or through the tubing and the fibers are distributed evenly, shrink the tube trim stem and base of feather off & clear coat. bingobango.

I'm sure some one can copy it successfully, I'm not sure it'd be worth it and I'm not looking for that kind of work. I hate to paint and I hate doing eyes. (I'm thinking $12-$29/per copy to even git interested) Gavin is probably on the right track with the collar. Thing is that almost every thing in fly tying has to be invented and manufactured for some other purpose (with a bigger market) and adapted to the hook by some tyer experimenting.

The differentiation is already being made by people (some on this forum) that say "you don't need this gun to hunt". No doubt at all that gun owners will vote for gun confiscation in the end, all the while saying "you don't need that gun because I don't want that gun."

The feather is what I'd call down I think rather than hackle (stiffer neck feather by definition) Nice little fly. I think getting jigs that light (1.7 grains) would be a deal killer unless you machine your own molds, that would be about like a #7 shot pellet. As big as those heads look, my guess is they ain't lead or bismuth. And I'm guessing the head/eye is very important to this lure. Are the eyes painted or an add-on?