Champ188

Good article, Phil. Thanks for posting.

Generally speaking, except for during flood conditions, Table Rock is a clear-water fishery from one end to the other. I have found through trial and error that it's usually a good idea to start with a 1/4-ounce lure when looking for a blade bite. The only time I abandon that theory is in late winter/spring when the shad are bigger. The Screamin' Eagle, even though it weighs 1/2 ounce, is built on the 1/4-ounce frame so it also benefits from the smaller profile. I've found that the smaller-profile baits especially shine during the fall months.

In my opinion, a guy or gal could easily fish Table Rock year-round with these lures: 1. A 5/16-oz finesse jig in a green crawfish pattern with a green pumpkin Zoom Lil Critter Craw trailer (all seasons and water temps) 2. A 3/16-oz shaky head with a Zoom watermelon candy finesse worm (water temps 50 and up). 3. A Wiggle Wart in natural green craw (water temps 40-60. 4. A 1/4-oz. War Eagle spinnerbait in mouse color (water temps 50 and up). 5. A SPRO McStick 110 jerk bait in the blue bandit color (water temps 50 and below). Sure there are lots of other things to throw that will absolutely catch fish going and coming, but those are MY BASIC CHOICES THAT FIT MY OVERALL STYLE OF FISHING. Everyone develops their own basic styles over time. That's one of the things that makes fishing such a great sport ... there is no cut-and-dried right or wrong way to go about it.

I'm not here to argue with anyone, but abk is right ... if you put a Cara in your hands spooled with 15-pound Trilene 100% fluorocarbon and drag it across a pea gravel bottom, then do the same with a lower-modulus graphite rod spooled with 15-pound Big Game mono, you will get far better feel of what's going on with the higher-tech Cara. It's simple physics ... higher-modulus graphite and 100 percent fluorocarbon line both help transmit vibration better than lesser-quality materials. No one has to believe it any more than they have to believe that God created the universe and everything in it. Still doesn't change the fact that it's true.

My 2 cents would be to buy the very best rod you can afford. A Clarus is a good rod but it's a rather low-modulus rod that is better suited for throwing "winding" baits that move fast and elicit reaction strikes. The lures you mention above are all "dragging" baits, which require that you detect the strike and set the hook. You will feel far more bites with a higher-modulus graphite. Yes, you will pay more but in the grand scheme of things, you'll likely be glad you spent another $80 to $100 and upgraded to a better-quality rod. If he hasn't sold them, the Falcon Caras that Bill mentioned would do you very proud. My prized shaky-head spinning rod is a St. Croix Avid series, and you might look into something like that. A veteran BASS tournament pro once told me, "Sometimes you want hi-tech and sometimes you want low-tech." With dragging baits, you want hi-tech (high-modulus graphite) for the added feel it gives you. For moving baits, you want low-tech for the forgiveness you get from a spongier rod when setting the hook and playing a fish. Hope this helps some.

Got that right. I've done it successfully but it does take a lot of work, you need the RIGHT brush (pin oak can't be beat for bass) and you better be prepared for certain piles to never hold fish. That's just the facts of life.

I don't have any personal experience but one of the best structure fishermen I know on Beaver Lake is a big believer in them for bass.

I use mostly Duckett rods these days but I've always found that a C-rig rod will work divinely for football jiggin. Bet you enjoy the Cara. Sometimes I feel like the only non-Falcon guy around but I really like my Ducketts.

I'd take what wrench says to heart. He knows his business and is very kind to pass along lots of good advice here.

I agree, and being a lower-modulus graphite rod, it tends to be a bit softer in terms of bend, which is exactly what you want with a treble-hook lure like a jerk bait.

Gabe, the Duckett rod that I use for jerk baits is a DFMM66MC, which is not the 6-6 cranker. It really does a good job for me of casting, working the lures and playing the fish. For anyone considering trying monofilament, I personally recommend 8-pound test P-Line. Mr. Babler (Bill, please correct me if I'm wrong) has been known to use 8-pound Maxima. Both of us prefer the green tint and both lines are premium lines.

I've had several conversations with my friend and neighbor whose name is on the McStick that resulted in my feelings about throwing jerk baits on mono. There's also an article on the PAA website where Mike voices his feelings about that. Not saying he knows everything, and that goes double for me, but between what he told me and personal experience with both line types, I prefer mono. To each his own. The PAA article can be read here: http://fishpaa.com/2011/02/pull-em-up-with-deep-jerkbaits/ Here's an excerpt: McClelland said he prefers the McRip 85 for cold-water and pre-spawn conditions, working the bait on 8- to 12-pound Sunline monofilament. “It’s more manageable and can get to a greater depth,” he said. “Monofilament gives you some stretch so you don’t worry about pulling hooks and also gives you the ability to suspend the bait without the line affecting the action. Fluorocarbon sinks and it’s hard to control a bait with a line that sinks, so I don’t want that. “The worst jerkbait season I ever had was when fluorocarbon first came out and I thought I didn’t need mono anymore. But I realized after that just how important monofilament line can be.”

Forgive my ignorance. I misspoke about the temperature. What I should have said is that fluorocarbon absorbs water, which causes it (and your lure) to sink. This becomes a greater problem in colder water because the colder the water, the longer you pause the lure ... and the more time it has to sink. And no, we don't "all know" that water is densest at 39.164 degrees F. Hell, I'm not even smart enough to make the "degrees" mark on my PC. But I do know that mono works better than fluorocarbon for me when throwing jerk baits.

Bill is on the nose with this one. I'm 6-4 and still prefer nothing longer than a 6-9 rod for jerk baits. My favorite is the previously mentioned 6-6 Duckett Med-Fast with a Lew's Tournament Pro and 8-pound Maxima or P-Line mono. In super-cold water, flurocarbon will actually cause certain jerk baits to sink.

Appreciate the honest report. Winter fishing can get very tough when the water temp plunges like it has in the past week or so. Sounds like you made the best of a bad situation. Good job.

You might also look at the Duckett Micro Magic rod in 6-6 Med Fast. I'm using one for my jerk baits and absolutely love it. Plenty of tip to throw the lighter baits (Rogues especially) farther but still plenty of backbone to handle a big fish.

I'm a fan of Broken Bow myself, Tom. Donna and I have a very good friend down there in guide Bryce Archey.

Take care of the wrist, Bo. Prayers and well wishes.

Looking on the NuTech website, I don't see any spider-cut (finesse) skirts. Talking about the Eakins jig-type skirt where the skirt is cut to make a collar around the head. Is that an option?

Thumbs, I suspect you're using the same locally produced jigs that I am, and you're dead right about the paint coming off. That used to not be an issue because all of their jigs (or darn near all) had the antique gold paint. For some reason, they don't use it anymore. Cost savings? I don't know but I'm like you ... about ready to look for another brand. I know Jewel uses that antique gold paint on their football jig heads and maybe their Eakins jigs, too. It's a dull black paint with small gold chips in it. Matches up pretty well with just about any skirt color.

What was the water temp today?

I love the friendly banter. Lots of fun on these cold days. Speaking of which, shouldn't be long before we start catching some of those toothy "eatin' fish" on jerkbaits.

This snowy weather is making for a tough crowd around here!

Since he is new to Indian Point, I doubt Patrick has any idea which docks to go fish in the 10-mile stretch between Baxter and Shell Knob, or where the deep brush is along channel edges at Cape Fair. Josh, could we impose on you to provide an accurately marked map?

I'm all about sharp hooks and I used to take the time to sharpen my own. But technology has long passed me by in terms of not only getting a hook surgically sharp, but also making one that will pretty much stay that way. I still work full time, so my fishing time is limited. Frankly, I'd rather fish than sharpen hooks. So like Mitch, I spend the extra coin and replace my stock hooks with Owner Stinger or Daichi Deathtrap premium trebles. I do keep a hook file on hand to dress up the point on single-hook baits such as spinnerbaits, buzz baits, jigs, etc. However, if I'm fishing a tournament and roll a hook point over on one of those, I generally change baits and save the old one for recreational fishing (after I redress the point).