jdmidwest

If the state of Missouri stocks your pond according to their policies, the fish are still state property and subject to state limits of the species. You control access to the pond and the public has no rights to them. This prevents state fish from being used in a commercial application. Here is a link to the MDC website. http://www.mdc.mo.gov/fish/improve.htm

Don't forget the Longears either, better known as redbellies. I have been targeting them on my favorite smallie streams for years. They eat tons of bass eggs. Normally its a wash, the bass eat them too. Just too many people fish the small streams around here and keep the smallies as soon as they get to 12" so there are less predators to keep the redears in check. A brown San Juan worm dropped on a Redear bed gets them every time.

I pay $52 for a out of state fishing license in Ark when an instate license cost about $18 with equal or better fishing. Alot of people pay for the privilege of doing something other than what they do every day just to experience something different. I know of several people that pay for a prime duck lease each year, go to the local conservation area first and draw a pill, then hunt the lease if they don't like what they have drawn. Myself, if I draw a bad pill and don't get out, I fall back to other public options. If I had a lease, I would probably sleep later and hunt the afternoons more.

I use a pair of squizzers I bought back in the 90's for the fine work. Surgical steel and a loop design that keeps the blades open till you squeeze them. They are serrated on one side and have served me well. I also have a pair in my travel kit. For hair cutting I use a pair from Kershaw that I cant remember what they were called at the time. Standard design with comfort grips. For all around cutting of big materials, I have a pair of blue Fiskars by Gerber Co. I use them for foam, paper, etc.

Interesting Watcher, I did not know that it was really floatable in that stretch. How long has it been since you have been thru there? We used to spend alot of time in that area during the summer. We fished the Warm Fork, the South Fork, the Strawberry, Fourche, and several others that I can't remember the names. We have kayaks and are always willing to bust brush for a good smallie.

I was given a few custom stickbaits made by a friend of mine that were painted with a crackle paint. It was a special paint that makes cracks that looked like scale when it dried. They turned out pretty good. I think the paint is sold in hardware stores.

Parker Hollow has parking by the river, and the camping is like anything else in the Scenic Riverways. Gravel bars, river banks are fair game. It is a non improved site, primitive camping except for a few interpretive signs. Long gravel road that can be rough at times.

I have always tied scuds with orange in them to imitate the egg carrying females. I have always used a tan hairs ear/antron mix with an orange thread, when wet, the orange thread base shows through the center of the fly. I always tie that style in a fur bug pattern, simply dubbing and thread. Otherwise. I use tan thread. I have also tied a trout crack style pattern with tan dubbing, pheasant back, and mono rib.

2 jars here also starting with the product code 2111. Funny though, the expiration dates are Jan 2008 and April 2007. How long has this been going on? The Peter Pan was almost gone, and someone had opened the GV too. Walmart must have gotten a good deal on it! http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070215/ap_on_...r_salmonella_20

The only downside to the boxes would be with drys and soft hackles. I have noticed the hackles get stuck in the hinges. Plus, it is a little hard to see down in the compartments, maybe lining them with white foam would help. I like the little boxes for the nymphs, but I think I am going to do something different for the hackled flies. Never ending search for the perfect fly box!

Dano, I just bought a bunch of Okuma boxes on Ebay last summer. 2 of the 20 compartment/foam and 2 of the 6 compartment/foam. Not quite sure of the performance. I had been using clear plastic till then, just thought I would try something different. Okuma is nice, not quite the quality of the Wheatly's though. By the way, that Tom Hargrove guy is a fly fisher and he drinks Little Yeoman beer, and you can tell him I said that if you see him. Great shop on Manchester in STL. Tom Hargrove and Charlie Reading at Bennett Springs run two of the greatest fly shops I have been to. Each one is worth the trip and plan to stay a while. Very unique in the ways of customer service and attention. They have a passion for the art of flyfishing that you won't see in alot of other shops.

Dan, great shot of a great river. Unfortunately in the last few years it has been polluted by in stream cattle operations from Hwy 8 to Terre du Lac. We floated that section last summer and the water quality was horrible. Reported it to MDC and DNR to no avail. Above the gravel pit at Hwy 8 is great in a kayak. Here is a shot from the irondale bridge.

http://www.killroys.com/knots/looploop.htm

Keep it light, we have to be serious at work.

You cut them from the tanned side with a single edge razor or xacto knife. I usually cut them on a self healing cutting mat I picked up at an art supply store. Comb the fur and cut in strips with the grain of the hair for zonkers, cross cut the strips for winding them on carcass type flies or leeches. There was a jig I saw a few years back with several blades in a board that you could draw the skin over and cut it up pretty fast.

With the cost of a whole tanned tame rabbit hide in various colors running $4 at Hobby Lobby, it is hardly worth the effort. I assume you are talking about cottontail rabbits. You could skin out the heads and ears to dry out and use for dubbing. They can be dyed fairly easy and have a mixture of spikey fur for dubbing purposes. Other wise, the time and effort to skin the rabbit whole, wash and debug the hide, then tan it could involve several hours of labor for a hide that will still be cottontail colored. There are not many uses for a cottontail colored zonker strip.

Greg, the wrist problem may be a sign of something else, Carpal tunnel or repetitive motion problem. Try a simple wrist brace or wrist band. I use one all of the time and it has eliminated the pain, numbness, and tingling . My right wrist is crap due to hipower pistol loads, too much mouse, and fly fishing. Watch the elbow too, I have seen tennis elbow type problems also. In addition to Steve's suggestions, use the right rod for the right fishing situation. A 3 or 4 wt for dry flies, a 6 or 7 wt for size 6 streamers or muddlers. Shorter rods for narrow streams and longer rods for better line control in wider streams. Not using the right rod will cause you to work more while casting. I usually carry several and several different spools of line for the reels to match the situation. I have went back to the truck several times in a day as the fishing changes. Also, the right leader, tippet length combination can affect the cast considerably. Longer lighter leaders and tippets for dries, shorter heavier for streamers.

I think that is why I took up fly tying to relieve the winter boredom, less painful. Good thing he did not buy her a pistol for self defense.....................

Well, first for the legal part now that you have posted the first part on the world wide web for all to see. The mallard is a federal bird, the person who gave it to you should have also included his name, address, conservation id number, and date of kill. This will allow you to legally possess this bird if someone comes knocking on you door. Feathers purchased from commercial buyers do not need this, only whole birds and mounts privately killed. That said, if you are going to eat it, hopefully the entrails have been removed before freezing. Gut bacteria tends to get funky before the bird freezes completely. If it is frozen, it will need to thaw. If you are going to eat it, it is best to pluck the bird, leaving the fat and skin on it to help keep moist while roasting. If you are going to eat other ways, just skin it, its quicker. The barred feathers on the flanks under the wings are the most used feathers, the wings and tail feathers are important too. Don't forget the CDC feathers by the oil glands on top in front of the tail. http://www.hidetanning.net/DuckTaxidermy.html

Finally got to fish the local city lake here in Jackson, MO. this afternoon for about 30 minutes. Trout were rising all over and the lake was glassed over. Caught one trout on a beadhead snail pattern before it was too dark to see. Talked to others and they were having the same luck. Just felt good to get a rod back in hand after duck season. Water quality was poor, nasty scum on the water. Too many local geese, counted 40 or better in the middle. They flew out after shooting hours.

Eggs are pretty tough, and you are using a double whip finish so you should not have any problems there. Try the tougher thread, 3/0 or A if you can't find the gel spun. Thanks for the primrose and pearl tip, I'll tie a few for him to try along with the eggs.

Ducky, have you tried Gel spun thread or Kevlar thread yet. A little tougher thread may hold up better. Depends on how the fly is falling apart. What colors are working now? I have a friend who is going to Branson this weekend and we are going to tie some flies tonight.

Absolutely nothing but natural background noise. I deal with the public at work and have to listen to BS from customers all day. When I fish, I don't want to hear "Fish on", or "Heh this guys catchin them on black". Bubbling steams and a fish slurp, woodies whistling or a turkey gobble, deer snort or coyote howl are all good. I am annoyed by the squak of a heron, dam fish wasting bird, they are getting too thick again, need to bring back DDT. Don't even go there with a cell phone unless the wife's in labor or you are fishing by yourself and use one to call out if you get in trouble. Then keep the conversation low enough that no one else can hear what you are saying, because, really we don't care about your phone conversations. On a really good day, in the middle of nowhere, stretch out on a log and just listen to the natural world. Save the radio for the trip back home.

Now you are catching on, different flies for different fishing situations. If you are in a trout park where the water is only 2-3 foot deep, the fly only needs to run 2-3 foot deep. If the run you are fishing is not very long, the fly has to sink fast to get to the right depth. If you are fishing a big river, you are going to need a fly that will sink to the right depth but not be too heavy to cast with the rod you have chosen for the river. On and on and on.... That is why we tie.... At least woolies are a quick tie.

Funny, I hardly ever have a problem with breakoffs and light tippets. I use Orvis Braided leaders and Orvis Super Strong mono tippet in 6x 90 percent of the time while fishing for trout. The main failures I have are due to knot failure and not tippet strength. I know the braided leaders are a little more forgiving than the tapered mono ones because of the construction. I actually loose more to the hook pulling out than anything else, screwing around and playing a fish too hard and not letting him run out. Shock tippets are nothing new, they have been used in saltwater fly fishing for years. Feathercraft in STL used to sell a shock tippet for freshwater also, I can't remember what it was called. Does anyone use flourocarbon tippets anymore?