Members KansasBoy13 Posted September 1, 2009 Members Share Posted September 1, 2009 I have a 115hp E-Tec and I have the hardest time getting it to start. I read through my manual and it offers no help with my problem. Once it starts it normally runs fine but for the first time of the day it takes about 20+ tries to get it going. I've never had this problem with any other motor. Does anyone else have an E-Tec and have this problem or any advice you can throw my way? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishinwrench Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Pump your primer bulb up tight before cold starting. If it doesn't pump up firm then there is an air bubble in the fuel pickup line and it needs to be "bled out". Or you have a fuel leak somewhere. If the primer bulb pumps up tight but the engine is still hard to cold-start, check to see if your fuel tank may be equipped with an anti-siphon valve. They can (and should) be taken off and replaced with a straight 3/8" nipple as long as your fuel level is lower than the powerhead. (Which includes just about every boat design, except for pontoons). Those are the initial troubleshooting steps for a hard cold start. I'll mention one other thing, just because I see alot of people doing this on steep ramps. If you are starting it on the trailer (before shoving off the bunks) be sure that the exhaust relief on the back of the lower cowling is not under water.... The motor needs to be level, and it needs to be able to "breath". When the exhaust relief is under water it causes the sensors to indicate a "too rich" code to the ECM, which in turn shortens injector pulse width in attempt to adjust the fuel balance. Pushing the boat the rest of the way off the trailer and allowing the boat, and engine, to float more level should keep all the sensors in line for a smooth cold start. Wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members flysnducks Posted September 2, 2009 Members Share Posted September 2, 2009 I would take it to the dealer or someone quailified to check the codes or like was said earlier, the fuel system. Mine sits in Taney for 2 weeks at a time and I never prime it and it always starts before you can hear the starter turn . My dealer told me if the crankshaft turns more than 1 revolution and it doesnt start somethings wrong. I always run the xd 100 oil . I have heard of some cold starting problems with the xd 50 but I would think it would have to be alot colder temps than this time of year...Also...are you using the johnson/evinrude fuel treatment ?could the gas be bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KansasBoy13 Posted September 2, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 2, 2009 I would highly doubt the gas is bad and it has the E-Tec oil in it. We just bought the boat about a month ago and they filled it up with gas then and he told us everything we need to do since the E-Tec's need the different oil and such, but we havent even came close to needing to change it or anything. I have two primer bulbs (one by the gas tank itself in the storage well and the other outside that connects to the motor) and the one in the well is always tight and the one outside gets tighter but nothing like the other one. As for having it too low in the water I dont think thats it either, I've tried starting it at different heights thinking it may work for some reason (I didnt know about the exhaust being covered though). So it may seem like it may be either a bubble or a leak from what you said. I know when its in the garage it does smell overly gassy in there. Any tips on how to check for the leak? I've never really had starting problems in the past so I dont really know how to go about fixing them. Thanks for the advice guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishinwrench Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 First off, the smaller primer bulb in the bilge compartment is OIL , not Fuel. You don't need to be squeezing on it. Any tips on how to check for the leak? Remove the cowling and pump up the FUEL primer bulb. Squeeze the bulb hard and hold pressure on it while looking/listening for leaks. As for anything further, If you aren't confident or somewhat knowlegable about what your doing I'd recommend you just take it to a qualified tech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueWave Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I have the same motor and have to pump the primer bulb if I let the boat sit for more than a week. I was told that I should not have to do it, but about half the ETEC owners I have heard do the same thing. Now, I just pump the bulb as a standard practice on the first start. I really love this motor. There is an ETEC owners forum that is a great source of info that is ran by some certified tech's. I have gotten good advice on any issue with the motor. I will run up the link if you can't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members chris smith Posted November 19, 2009 Members Share Posted November 19, 2009 I have a 115hp E-Tec and I have the hardest time getting it to start. I read through my manual and it offers no help with my problem. Once it starts it normally runs fine but for the first time of the day it takes about 20+ tries to get it going. I've never had this problem with any other motor. Does anyone else have an E-Tec and have this problem or any advice you can throw my way? Thanks. I have the same exact problem, it takes anywhere from 3-6 turns of the key to get the engine to start and continue running on the first start of the day. I have a 2007 115 e-tec, notified the dealer and their checking with BRP on causes. Did you ever get it resolved with your motor? I also get some hesitation and the occasion stall when the engine is not warmed up yet, but the issues are only from idle to 2000 rpm. I've read some tech specs on the engines and they have several features that save gas and reduce noise at idle. Instead of pulling air through the main intake they use a smaller intake hose/pathway at idle to reduce noise and also run most of the exaust out of the lower unit during idle, also to reduce noise at idle or very low rpms. Once you get close to 1800-2000 rpms these things change and my theory is that a valve(s) from these variations may stick at startup or while throttling up past 2000K. Once warmed up my engine starts first time and runs flawlesssly. I've also noticed the"pressurized fuel system" needs to be primed sometimes. Can't tell if this helps make the first startup easier or not as I've not gotten consistent results after priming. Maybe the fuel system has developed a small leak somewhere that makes it difficult for the fuel lift pump to pressurize properly??? I'd be really gratefull to know if you've found the cause of your issue. I'm in Maryland and the problem seems much more apparent when the weather gets cool/cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Agnew Posted November 20, 2009 Share Posted November 20, 2009 Geez, my 40 HP E-Tec starts instantly every time, cold, warm, after it's been sitting in the garage for 6 months (yep, I hadn't had it out since March until a couple weeks ago, figured I'd better at least change the gas in the tank, hit the starter button and it started instantly.) I've had it for three years now. Love that motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 My buddy has a 150 etec on his rig and that puppy fires up first crank no matter how cold it is. That's a sweet motor! His is a 2006 model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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