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I have never understood the need for a fixed float and long rod for this application. Crappie fisherman have been using slip float and jigs for years. Seems like all you have to do is add some additional weight above the jig get the line to pull through and to balance the float (which would require using a little larger float). You want the float to ride low in the water so you can see any lift bites. The only negative I see is that the added weights may deaden the action on the jig when you twitch the rod. Also you won't be able to use a weighted cork...but casting 4ft of line with a slip float should still be much easier than a 12 fl leader with a buggy whip.

Most articles you see say a slip float won't work:

http://www.floatandfly.com/

....these say it will:

http://www.fishingclub.com/fishing/articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/829/the-float-and-fly

http://www.worldfishingnetwork.com/users/skippermark/blog/perfecting-the-float-and-fly-technique-for-winter-bass-52516.aspx

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Posted

The adddition of a three-way swivel is kind of a recent development. The original float n' fly kits came with a pear-shaped, clip-on style bobber that you clipped onto your line at the top and bottom of the bobber. Slip bobbers can be used but you won't get the same action when you jiggle the rod to give the jig some action, instead, the jig will move mainly up and down as you tug on the line. That "craft-hair" used on the float n' fly jigs is pretty stiff stuff and not at all like marabou. It's also difficult to get much sideways movement to change locations being fished with a slip bobber rig. When you move the fixed-line bobber the jig moves through the water in sort of a pendulum motion that, on some days, attracts a bite. A very subtle shaking action, like what the angler is using in the video Stump bumper posted, is what is recommended to imitate a crippled or distressed threadfin. Funny think is they are still selling the "fly-dope" that reminds you of a thick and scented vaseline product that is used to dress the craft hair on the jig. Even the little plastic tube it comes in is identical to 10 years ago.

Posted

I have never understood the need for a fixed float and long rod for this application. Crappie fisherman have been using slip float and jigs for years. Seems like all you have to do is add some additional weight above the jig get the line to pull through and to balance the float (which would require using a little larger float). You want the float to ride low in the water so you can see any lift bites. The only negative I see is that the added weights may deaden the action on the jig when you twitch the rod. Also you won't be able to use a weighted cork...but casting 4ft of line with a slip float should still be much easier than a 12 fl leader with a buggy whip.

Most articles you see say a slip float won't work:

http://www.floatandfly.com/

....these say it will:

http://www.fishingclub.com/fishing/articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/829/the-float-and-fly

http://www.worldfishingnetwork.com/users/skippermark/blog/perfecting-the-float-and-fly-technique-for-winter-bass-52516.aspx

skeeter is exactly right! The slip bobber won't impart the same shaking action.

I used Fireline as the main line, so even breathing on the reel causes the swivel to transfer the action right to the line and jig.

The long rod is really not that hard to use.

In addition to the obvious need for casting such a long leader, the rod makes the hookset much more efficient, and since the bobber is independent of the lines, you don't lose any force as you would with a slip bobber.

A shorter rod would require a much quicker and harder hookset.

I'm no expert at this, but I hooked every fish that moved the bobber.

Can't wait to try it again!

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