New 8Wt Rod

[On The Fly 6]

So, I recently got an Orvis Clearwater II 8wt from my wife and in-laws for my birthday! I put some sinking line on the reel I got for it, but its hard to cast. The guy at the fly shop suggested I go with a heavier weight line (10 wt) so that's what I've got. Would you suggest going to the appropriate weight line for the rod? As I said, I'm having trouble casting it and I don't know if its because I've never cast a rig this heavy...(or if I need instructions on HOW to cast a heavier rod) Or could I get a new line and that would make it a little easier? I'm wanting to use the rod for striper, bass..things like that. I'm open to any and all suggestions! Thanks!

[Zack Hoyt]

A sinking line should be heavier than a normal line.....I dont understand why he would have had you try a sinking line thats 2wts heavier. IMO this was a bad idea. The sinking lines do take a little more effort to cast, as well as it being a horse of a rod. Alot of times you are needing faster line speed to get proper loading. This isnt an instance when your tossing tiny dries......your shotgunning a heavier line.

Again, IMO the Orvis rod is a slower rod, and will be a bit different in timing with a heavier line. Alot of guys who are casting larger rods and heavier line are looking for a very fast rod.

[Wayne SW/MO]

I've always found sinking lines challenging to cast because of their different tapers. I would question the need for a 10 wt line on a Clearwater which isn't a fast rod. I suspect your problems are in the taper you have.

You don't say if your problems are on grass or on the water.

[MaxDrown]

You should match the line weight to the rod.

[On The Fly 6]

So, I guess I'll be getting some new line. Seemed kinda off to me that the guy suggested a line way heavier than what my rid would need...but having no experience with a heavy rod, I took his word for it.

[Gavin]

Depends....sinking lines are a technical nightmare to figure out.....gotta work on almost every setup until its right. Figure an 8wt should handle a 250-300 grain shooting head pretty well....if its overloading the rod, or incredibly hard to pick up with proper technique (see below) cut the sinking portion of the line back a couple feet...

Casting needs to be modified too......Strip it in till the sinking portion of the line is in the tip top...do a quick Roll cast to get the line and fly on the surface and straighten it out...then make a good backcast and shoot a ton of line on your forward cast....Takes practice. Ability to shoot line on the back & forward cast a big plus....Sometimes its easier to present on your back cast if you need a ton of distace with a sinker an a heavy fly.......Good Luck.

[grizwilson]

Often I might have a new caster go one line up for floating line to help them get the feel of the rod loading, matter of fact a Jr. High neighbor is using one of my 7 wt. on his new 6 wt. rig rignt now, once he gets the feel will go to the 6. But on sinking lines I generally do the reverse, go one weight lighter until they get the feel of them.... works for me. See if you can borrow a line and try it.

[RSBreth]

I use an 8-weight rod a lot for Bass during Summer - and although I can get a little worn out casting it ALL day with a floating line - casting a sink-tip or sinking line very long is a pain in the backside. Well, actually it's a pain in the shoulder and elbow and wrist.

Those Clearwater rods are sort of a medium action - I wouldn't overline them, either.

[Wayne SW/MO]

The guy at the fly shop suggested I go with a heavier weight line (10 wt) so that's what I've got.

if you bought the line from him take it back and tell him it made things worse.

I'm not a fan of sinking lines for any general fishing. You can always add a length of leadcore to a floater, but you can't fish a hopper or a bug on a sinking line.