jdmidwest Posted March 1, 2012 Author Posted March 1, 2012 I don't know of any places that carry ladybugs locally. We usually have enough of them around here naturally. They usually wad up for the winter in my storage shed. "Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously." — Hunter S. Thompson
3wt Posted March 2, 2012 Posted March 2, 2012 What heirloom tomatoes are you doing? I mentioned Black from Tula was a bust above, but they have since sprouted. Also doing Brandywine, Amish Paste, Cherokee Purple. Most of the other veggies are heirloom too. Delicious, Pantano Romanesco, Cherokee Purple, Prudens Purple, Yellow Brandywine, German Johnson, Green Zebra, Matt's Wild Cherry, Black Cherry and Yellow Pear. Think I saw you 'round over at Idig.
ness Posted March 2, 2012 Posted March 2, 2012 Delicious, Pantano Romanesco, Cherokee Purple, Prudens Purple, Yellow Brandywine, German Johnson, Green Zebra, Matt's Wild Cherry, Black Cherry and Yellow Pear. Think I saw you 'round over at Idig. Looks like a good selection. What's your handle over there? John
Members Wormser Posted March 6, 2012 Members Posted March 6, 2012 put two trailer loads of horse $$$$ on last weekend and it is mellowing as I write this. Question for crowd how long does the manure aid your garden. put alot on for several years and this is third since last batch. My soil seemed to go right back to ridgetop clay in three years. It can't wash out cause I've got the whole garden surrounded by rr ties. I'd like to have nice soil before I'm 90. Is there anything else I could add to help. Put leaves on every year as well. The manure should be aged or else it will hold up the nitrogen and you should till it in . Google "liquid gypsum". It works better than dry and will really help break up your clay soil and help with drainage. Also, till in some compost to help with organic matter. I grow giant pumpkins and add a few yeards each fall before I do soil testing in the spring. I had a new plot last year and had terrible soil. After some other amendments (like kelp, humic acid, etc) , compost, aged manure and liquid gypsum, I was able to grow a 525 pounder, 450 pounder and ~350 pounder with only 6 hours of sun.
ness Posted March 15, 2012 Posted March 15, 2012 All this warm weather has me thinking about getting some stuff started a little early. I think I'm gonna get the snow and snap peas in the ground today, and start to harden off some of my lettuce and cabbage seedlings too. Got some new EMT conduit verticle supports to finish painting and some compost to spread around this weekend too. John
Quillback Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 Planted the Snow peas yesterday and set out a cherry tomato in a container. Doesn't look like any frost in the long range forecast, so what the heck. Anyone have any ideas on a good way to add calcium to the soil? Seems every year, beginning about late July, I have problems with tomatos splitting just before they get ripe, or sometimes get blossom end rot. I'm told adding calcium can help, but can't find any in the garden stores. Does adding lime add calcium?
tho1mas Posted March 30, 2012 Posted March 30, 2012 Egg shells crushed & the water from a boiled egg pan.
jdmidwest Posted March 31, 2012 Author Posted March 31, 2012 Usually natural lime from local limestone will add calcium. Just be sure to check the Ph as it will raise it also. I have sprayed a mix of Epson Salt and water to give them Manganese. I have been told that is what is causing the splitting. I just write it off to the heat the last few years. "Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously." — Hunter S. Thompson
Quillback Posted March 31, 2012 Posted March 31, 2012 Yeah the heat has been bad the last couple of years. I hope this really warm spring is not a sign of another long hot summer.
ness Posted March 31, 2012 Posted March 31, 2012 I think the cracking is irregular watering. Too much all at once after a dry spell causes the tomato to swell. John
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