MoSportsmen Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 Hey Fishinwrench Your procedure works like a charm. Two or three cranks and it is up and running had it out twice this weekend. I think it was the high idle I was putting it in probably flooding it(always had to use high idle on my old merc). The primer button is a little sticky( goes in stays in, not forever but takes a long time to come back out.). Wonder what the proper lube would be for that area? Be nice if I could just spray something in there. Still don't "get" the kill switch, maybe because the switch/button is a bit sticky. She is still running a little rough at about 1200 rpm, but I still have not found the time to do a decarb on it and change out the plugs. More work to do, but thrilled with the motor for what I got in it. Took it in and had the lower unit pressure checked cause it had milky fluid, mechanic found it to be tight, leak free, drained it good and refilled it. Changed the water pump while he was there, so I am pretty much ready, set, go. Tom Messing about in boats
fishinwrench Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 Awesome ! You can give the key switch a shot of WD-40 and hit it with a blast of air if you have a compressor handy, if that doesnt free up the stickiness then there's a chance that the switch has gotten hot and weakened the spring, (happens if one of the switch terminals has a loose or dirty connection). The dead spot at 1200 is probably because the throttle linkage is a tad out of sync. As you accelerate, timing is advanced manually as the throttle plates open. Everything has to be synced nearly perfectly to obtain a smooth hole shot with no stagger zones. The clear plastic outer bushing on the throttle cam roller has a habit of falling apart and will throw it out of sync just a bit, you might check that little POS and see if it's all still intact. Don't spend too much on "decarbonizing" treatments, they are a waste of time/money. Once hard carbon deposits have built up the only way to get rid of them is to remove them manually (complete powerhead teardown). Ring-Free, Engine Tuner, ect. won't even soften hard carbon buildup, so save your cash.
MoSportsmen Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 Too late on saving the cash, already bought the stuff. I can see your point, I would imagine hard carbon build up would be pretty much impossible to remove. The Seloc manual I bought says to do a carbon spray tune every 50 hours. Never did it on my old Merc and I had a mechanic tell me the pistons and cylinders looked very clean. That POS you spoke of is strongly suspect????????....... that's where that plastic tube I found laying loose in the engine came from. Actually though, out of the hole putting it pedle to the meatle so to speek, the motor is smooth and jumps right through 1200 no problem. It is when I am trying to go slow and running constant at low speed that it does a lot of shaking and rattling. Idle in nutral is good, and in gear at low idle is ok, just when I pick it up just a little it gets pretty shaky. Tom Messing about in boats
fishinwrench Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 That POS you spoke of is strongly suspect????????....... that's where that plastic tube I found laying loose in the engine came from. LOL Yep! Replace that and it's a good bet you'll notice a difference. The part# is 432639 (about 8.00)
MoSportsmen Posted February 21, 2012 Author Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks again. I will have to look up where and how that goes in my manual. Got new drink holders on the clearance race at wally world to instal too, cut down on the beer waistage......boats are all about time and money. Two happiest days in a boat owners life the day he buys it and the day he sells it.........I have never been without a boat in my adult life so I wouldn't know about the latter. Tom Messing about in boats
Daryk Campbell Sr Posted February 21, 2012 Posted February 21, 2012 B O A T (acronym) Stands for: Bust Out Another Thousand. Not my quote, heard it on Pawn Stars. Money is just ink and paper, worthless until it switches hands, and worthless again until the next transaction. (me) I am the master of my unspoken words, and the slave to those that should have remained unsaid. (unknown)
fishinwrench Posted February 21, 2012 Posted February 21, 2012 B O A T (acronym) Stands for: Bust Out Another Thousand. Not my quote, heard it on Pawn Stars. Bend Over And Takeit !
MoSportsmen Posted March 5, 2012 Author Posted March 5, 2012 Fishinwrench, Put that plastic tube back where I figured it went. The tube was broken, split so I wraped it with electrical tape and stuck it back on there. I think the boat did run better in that 12 to 18000 range. Lots smoother. Man your good. Wish I had you down the road from me to work on my motor any time it needed a little tlc. Tom BTW now that I have a good cold start procedure......I gots no trouble getten her a going. Messing about in boats
fishinwrench Posted March 5, 2012 Posted March 5, 2012 Good deal, glad I could help. Be sure to replace that roller though, cuz electric tape isn't going to last long. I listed the part # above, the marina up there at Long Branch probably has it in stock....or you can order one online. You don't want that tape to fall off and get sucked into the intake silencer.
MoSportsmen Posted March 5, 2012 Author Posted March 5, 2012 Will do. Is the part just the soft plastic sleeve or does it include the harder plastic roler under that? Can I put the new one on by just slipping it over the plastic roller? I will order one but.........eight bucks seems a little steep for a plastic sleeve. hole in the water........eight bucks is not much compaired to all the other expenses I guess. Tom Messing about in boats
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