Trailer Boards

[Grappling Coach]

After eight years, the boards on my trailer need to be replaced. The trailer came with lag screws underneath to hold them on, but I am thinking of putting carriage bolts on, so that they will last longer. I am thinking of countersinking them a little to keep them from rubbing on the boat and then carpeting over that before I put them on the trailer. I am wondering what kind of wood to use and find out if anyone has any good tips.

[jdmidwest]

A friend of mine used some of the new synthetic deck boards left over from his deck project and it turned out pretty slick. Did not have to carpet them. But his was an older model Bass Tracker Panfish Special and trailer. I don't know how they will work with a big boat.

I would look for some stainless steel bolts, they should last longer.

[Feathers and Fins]

I know this isnt wood but I am thinking of doing this to my trailer soon. In FL I had designed my trailer for an all role on. I found it last longer <especially in salt> but also I was able to customize it so the boat after the bow made it in the shoot so to speak would go right in with little effort in all weather conditions.

This was for a V-hull mind you but it had rollers to keep the V centered at all cost and to have running boards aid in that and protection. Cost wise on a 22' Mako trailer was 1700.00 but that was with adding Lights to the trailer for Night loads, tilt up flags for same reason and perma-straps. Plus legthening the tongue.

I do not think it would come close ot that for freshwater, but i would suggest the bottom and sides to be rollers simply as safety in high wind or rough water or even the other guys wife who doesnt know how to load a boat on his trailer and almost takes out yours.

[skeeter]

A friend of mine used some of the new synthetic deck boards left over from his deck project and it turned out pretty slick. Did not have to carpet them. But his was an older model Bass Tracker Panfish Special and trailer. I don't know how they will work with a big boat.

I would look for some stainless steel bolts, they should last longer.

Good point on using the "synthetic deck boards". I replaced our deck 18 months ago and went with that synthetic material in hopes of avoiding the usual back breaking, time consuming, every two year maintenance of natural wood and so far, so good.

After cutting and installing Timbertech product I started noticing during the Winter and early Spring, the exact same type of material used for the bunk boards on many unoccupied boat lifts for large boats back in Little Indian (Baxter) area. Apparently, it is slick enough that no marine carpeting is needed which is what holds the water and airborne moisture against the wood and starts the rot thing in the first place. Can't recall the maker of the lifts using those synthetic boards but they do have a local shop.

I'm sure going to order more of that material and use it in the future on both lift boards and trailer boards. It's more pricey than natural wood but should last about forever. Wish I had some boards from the deck project left over but we figured our purchase close enough that we had no lengthy pieces unused.

[Craig]

One thing to think about is you power up your boat on a trailer a lift just goes up and down no friction involved. Rollers go up and down very easy might need someone or thing to connect trailer so it doesnt roll back. I like your original thought.

[Ultralance12]

I designed boat lifts early in my career and investigated using the plastic lumber for the pads. It didn't work on a lift very well because we only had two points of support an plastic lumber warps easily. A trailer it might work on because there is usually more tie ins between pad and frame to keep

It from warping. I would just use some good old treated lumber though. Countersunk carriage bolts are fine.

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[Feathers and Fins]

Na never had the problem of roll backs, I dont pull the trailer so far in the water that it will roll back. I think the biggest mistake i see at ramps daily is people not knowing how to trailer a boat. I put mine in just enough that the boat will go on it with the help of the big motor. Even doing it in the ocean with heavy current from the inlet I never had issues with roll off. Ramps were a little less in grade so possibly a issue here but one that could be dealt with by simply adding a mooring rope to the side runners in a way that when the boat is on a quick latch and your locked in place long enough to get to the front and secure the forward tie.

[bluebasser86]

I put these on my trailer about a month ago and so far I'm really happy with them. They bounce and flex a lot when the boat isn't on the trailer and I was afraid they were going to break but they much just be really flexible, no sign of them breaking at all. I know my boat loads and comes off the trailer way easier!

http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/