Stump bumper Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 Bad thing is you can't control where your line breaks when you get snagged, it is just a fact of life that for a hundred reasons there will be line in the lake. I have lost a full spool because I forgot to close a bail on a spinning reel before running in. I think the lesson here is to pull you props and check them also check your lower unit for water on a regular basis. Set a time schedule and stick to it. I bought a 1/2in torque wrench just to replace my prop. Don't wait until something breaks to fix it, check and recheck. It is like waiting on a red light to check the oil in your truck, it is too late.
Old plug Posted March 17, 2014 Posted March 17, 2014 I got to wonder a out that J DOC I know what he has59 pay for parts. I have seen the parts with the prices. IT IS beyond comprehension what The manufactures charge for those things.
fishinwrench Posted March 18, 2014 Posted March 18, 2014 why can't anyone make a trolling motor that won't allow line to get into the shaft? This is a 30 year old problem. Actually cut seals are relatively rare on bow mount foot controlled trolling motors because they don't run in reverse. You'd hardly ever cut a seal in an outboard either if you only ran it in forward. It's the backing off the trailer (with some line on the propshaft) that gets ya. it just sucks it right in there. I see alot of braided line past the seals. Braided line seems to be the worst damage do'er of all time, as far as propshaft seals are concerned.
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