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Posted

I've developed my own methods for getting maximum detail in macro photography.

First of all, you need a true macro lens. These are fixed focal lengths. I have a 35mm and a 100mm. There are some cheap lenses marked macro that are not true macro lenses, but close focus lenses. The difference is not only in how much you can magnify a subject, but more importantly, the quality of the image. The glass is where it's at, so if you want to shoot good macros, by a good macro lens. The photos I've included with this are full macro shots, with my forefinger in them for size relation.

The problem with macro is an extremely narrow depth of field, so to get the maximum DOF, I shoot macros in AV (aperture priority) mode and set the aperture between f-11 and f-22, depending upon the lens used and the flatness or width of the subject. My 35mm, for example, handles f-22 without noticeable diffraction (when using flash), while about the maximum aperture I can use without noticeable diffraction on my 100mm is f-14. So, for still subjects, such as tiny flowers and flies, my 35mm is best. The only problem with the 35mm is that at full macro, the front of the lens is only a couple of inches from the subject, so when I need more distance, such as with insects, I use my 100mm, which at full macro is about a foot from the subject.

Manual focus is imperative for good macro, so learn to use it.

Shooting this way requires a very slow shutters speed, so the real key to good macro photography is a good tripod and a powerful hot-shoe flash. Cheap tripods are like cheap lenses, so buy a good one. You don't need to spend hundreds for a tripod (do so, if you can afford it), but you do need to consider it an important investment to good photography (not just macro). I own a great and expensive tripod with a Swedish ball head, but in the field, I mostly use a mid-price range Manfrotto with a standard tilt-pan head that is light and that I don't mind banging up in the bottom of a canoe and so forth.

There are occasions when I can use the onboard flash for macro, but they are rare, and using a good hot-shoe flash is always better. Rarely, however, do I use it attached to the hot shoe.

Here's the method I've developed:

I set the camera and tripod into position and move it according to the angle and distance I want for the composition. The aperture is preselected and the shutter is set to remote triggering. The slightest movement can detract or ruin a macro image, and simply pressing the shutter release button can cause a slight movement, so use a remote trigger.

Then I lock everything down. Next I focus manually. I often focus with a strong light lit, but never shoot with it on. I like a little ambient light, but not from light bulbs of any kind. I like enough light to give me between 5 seconds and a minute of shutter speed. This gives me enough time to aim and fire the flash. I simply turn the flash on, hold it in my hand, and press the test button after the shutter opens. This allows me to control the distance and angle of the flash. I usually change angles and distances and take multiple shots, choosing the best one at full screen on the computer.

20116629, Cahill Midge, small.jpg

IMGP0056, Small, glade Buttercup (Sp Unknown), small.jpg

Posted

Nice shots Ron. Our methods are similar. I have to shoot off camera flash due to my setup. I only have one macro lens at 40mm. If I try to shoot with the flash on the shoe then the lens shades the subject from the flash. Because like you with the 35, I have to get real close with the 40. I've had good results using different lights as well though. If you are sure you have everything locked down you can have as long a shutter speed as you need.

I did this one using a small flashlight.

A

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Posted

And there is a lot that you can do with different lighting. Actually once you figure out that photography is all about capturing light it all starts to make a lot more sense.

This one looks like it has a black background but it doesn't. It's no photoshop trick either. If this was taken under normal light you would be able to see my kitchen in the background and all the kids pictures and papers hanging on the fridge. But since I used a small aperture and a fast shutter speed and a lot of light from a high powered flash it makes the background appear black.

 

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Posted

Another neat method to play with is to put a light underneath the subject. This was shot with the subject sitting on toilet paper on top of a small Styrofoam coffee cup with the end cut off. The cup was then placed over a small pot light that I purchased at Lowes.

 

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