MOBass Posted March 30, 2017 Author Posted March 30, 2017 I have run into issues with the cheesy 3-5 amp fuse links getting corroded. The pins will still show 12v on the voltmeter but will drop voltage when the circuit is put under a load. If there is a fuse link in-line you might pull it apart and clean the contacts with a wire brush. I'll give everything a scrub before I run new cable and I'll be buying a new 3 amp fuse link anyway so I can plug that in and see what happens. That won't take long as I have everything tore down already. If it don't work all I have to do is run the new wiring and get at fishing. Bass Yakker 1
buckwhisperer Posted March 31, 2017 Posted March 31, 2017 Might check that your connection from pins to unit are good, corrosion or wire may have "settled" and pins may not actually be touching anything. Had this issue with my trolling motor, spread pins out and fixed it.
MOBass Posted April 5, 2017 Author Posted April 5, 2017 UPDATE- Only had a few minutes to work on this recently. I cleaned the contacts both on the power cords and wires at the bow and still won't turn on so I shoved the probes in to the contacts on the power cord and got a reading, pushed power button and voltage drops below 12. Seems like I have a short or something under load. If weather is fit Sunday I am going to get the new power cord ran so I can hit the water Easter weekend. I'll keep working on the issue and see if I can find the ultimate cause of the problem.
buckwhisperer Posted April 6, 2017 Posted April 6, 2017 Way to keep at it, glad you figured something out.
MOBass Posted April 7, 2017 Author Posted April 7, 2017 Way to keep at it, glad you figured something out. It was baffling why I couldn't get the unit to work when I read good power all the way to it. My guess is something damaged the current cord in some way, but not enough to just kill it outright. New power cord got a bench test and it works. All that is left is running it, attaching to the battery and screwing the bow console back in place. Hopefully it goes as well as the steering cables I did a couple years ago.
bfishn Posted April 7, 2017 Posted April 7, 2017 Sounds like you were reading open circuit voltage. You can have a stranded wire with all strands broken but one, and you'll still read the full source voltage at the load end as long as there's no load (current draw). As soon as a load is applied the volltage falls to zero or some other much lower value). I can't dance like I used to.
MOBass Posted April 10, 2017 Author Posted April 10, 2017 Final update on fishfinder and new project- I hooked up the new power cord extension to the battery and bench tested it before fishing cable and everything worked well. The only area that took a bit of cable fishing was right at the console. All told 20 minutes from battery to bow. The extension was a bit long so I coiled and secured it. Rechecked everything before crimping....green lights all the way. Made the crimps and still works. Transducer went back on the troller, bow console screwed back down, final check, and put it to bed. New project- Decided to check the troller as last time out the 24V side seemed wimpy. Same deal yesterday. 12V was turning the prop noticeably faster on the same speed setting. Not good. This one was much easier to sort out. Battery 1 reading good, battery 2 was reading 7.2V. Yep, it's dead Jim. At least this will be a muscle and wiggle project and not require as much brain power to resolve. Bass Yakker and fishinwrench 2
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