Needing some ideas

[Dutch]

I am working on this bait that I make from a silicone mold that I made.  The hook moves around inside the lead.  I have tried several hooks with a 4/0 EWG worm hook being best.  Got any ideas of how to keep the hook from moving inside the lead?

[Basfis]

Most jigs have a turn in the hook inside the lead. Can’t see from the angle where yours is. 

Have you poured other molds without issue from the current batch of lead?

[tjm]

Flux the hooks? solder it? epoxy? pour the head around a wire and split ring the hook to that? I can't see any hooks in the picture so not sure what is what.  It looks like a spoon with the hook inside like a Sliver Minnow?  May need to have the hooks hot when pouring?

[Dutch]

1 hour ago, Basfis said:

Most jigs have a turn in the hook inside the lead. Can’t see from the angle where yours is. 

Have you poured other molds without issue from the current batch of lead?

A 90° jig hook won't work the eye would be inside the lead so I have used a 30°.  It has a bend but not as much.  Yes we just poured 4 dozen football heads with this same batch.

 

1 hour ago, tjm said:

Flux the hooks? solder it? epoxy? pour the head around a wire and split ring the hook to that? I can't see any hooks in the picture so not sure what is what.  It looks like a spoon with the hook inside like a Sliver Minnow?  May need to have the hooks hot when pouring?

I've been mulling the flux idea around as well as heating the portion of the hook where the lead touches it.  I just haven't gotten to that yet.

Thanks for the ideas.

[Basfis]

Any chance there is some oil or other residual from the hook manufacturing process?  Some of the fluids are high temp for sure. Easy test would be to alcohol wipe the area in contact with lead, especially if u torch dry after  

30 degrees should hold lead. 

[Dutch]

10 hours ago, Basfis said:

Any chance there is some oil or other residual from the hook manufacturing process?  Some of the fluids are high temp for sure. Easy test would be to alcohol wipe the area in contact with lead, especially if u torch dry after  

30 degrees should hold lead. 

30° holds well on my molds that take that hook.  This thing is 3 X the size of my regular molds.  I plan to try some hook cleaning, heating, and maybe scuff up the shank.  I also plan to make another mold that is not so large.  I'm wanting to use this down deep but I think this head may be 2 oz.

[tjm]

I don't make this kind of stuff, but my thoughts are: flux (try laundry Borax, if you have it) is to clean the metal and almost every hot metal work can benefit from fluxing. If you can work out a way to immerse the hooks in the lead pot for a minute or two they will be the same temperature as the lead with little chance of over heating.

What you are doing is in essence soldering the hook with a huge glob of solder, I think what is happening is the hook is cooling the lead fast enough that it shrinks away from the hook into the still molten mass and results in a "cold solder joint".   In the best of worlds a ball of molten  lead   should stick to a clean and fluxed straight wire. The other suggestion would be to get some self tinning flux and tin the hooks prior to pouring, by heating each hook and plunging it into the flux; more labor involved.

The difference in this and your other molds would be in the size- the 3x larger mass takes much longer to cool so the internal cooling caused by the cold hooks becomes more apparent.

I believe all hooks are coated with something (oil from manufacturing process might be present) to cut down on corrosion, this coating may be the problem, paint peels with heat.

[Dutch]

28 minutes ago, tjm said:

I don't make this kind of stuff, but my thoughts are: flux (try laundry Borax, if you have it) is to clean the metal and almost every hot metal work can benefit from fluxing. If you can work out a way to immerse the hooks in the lead pot for a minute or two they will be the same temperature as the lead with little chance of over heating.

What you are doing is in essence soldering the hook with a huge glob of solder, I think what is happening is the hook is cooling the lead fast enough that it shrinks away from the hook into the still molten mass and results in a "cold solder joint".   In the best of worlds a ball of molten  lead   should stick to a clean and fluxed straight wire. The other suggestion would be to get some self tinning flux and tin the hooks prior to pouring, by heating each hook and plunging it into the flux; more labor involved.

The difference in this and your other molds would be in the size- the 3x larger mass takes much longer to cool so the internal cooling caused by the cold hooks becomes more apparent.

I believe all hooks are coated with something (oil from manufacturing process might be present) to cut down on corrosion, this coating may be the problem, paint peels with heat.

I think you are on to something about the hook being coated.  The wires for the blades are stainless steel.  They adhere just fine.  I am waiting on some more silicone for a different mold.  This was purely experimental and it has turned out to be too large.  I will try a few later today after cleaning the hooks and see if it helps.  I don't have any fluxing material.  I use candle wax to flux my lead.

[Dutch]

Well I took advice from several guys.  I cleaned the hooks with Acetone.  I sanded the area to be covered by lead.  I heated the hooks.  I also used a semi hard lead mixture.  They came out tight like they should be.  Not sure how many of the steps were necessary but the end result was what I wanted.

 

Thanks so much for the ideas.