fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 After it dies will it start right back up, or do you have to wait a bit? Just for kicks see if you can save it from dying by blipping the choke/primer a few times. Also, just for kicks....pull apart all of your amphenol connectors and inspect all the little pins and sockets housed in them. One of your pins or sockets may have gotten pushed out partially.
Ranger520vx Posted July 19, 2019 Author Posted July 19, 2019 Sorry should have put this in first post it will fire right back up for a few seconds. Hitting the choke makes no difference and have had connectors apart seems like 100 times and they are all fully seated. Not sure if the little throttle is what made it run a little longer or not you never know if it will run 2 seconds or 30 seconds.
fishinwrench Posted July 20, 2019 Posted July 20, 2019 If it is ignition failure then it just has to show up on a DVA test. You can pretty much rule out the trigger, but you can't rule out the rectifier, stator, or power pack. I would start by hooking up the peak reading voltmeter to the ignition primary leads (orange) with peircing probes and see if voltage falls off before it dies. If it does then hook up to the stator (brown and brown/yellow....or whatever CDI uses) and see if voltage falls there too. If it does then you have a stator problem. If it doesn't then you have a power pack problem. Pull that flywheel and check to be sure that all magnets are in place solid and that none are cracked. If it stays running when you terminate the rectifier then it just has to be either the rectifier or stator. And since you've tried numerous good rectifiers then bygod it just has to be a bad stator. I never go by stator resistance tests....but maybe this is the time to use them. The stator charge coils could possibly be failing after the stator warms up.
Ranger520vx Posted July 20, 2019 Author Posted July 20, 2019 I was planning on running the DVA tests again this morning and see what I got. I'm like you the ones I've helped friends with I've gone more by DVA rather than ohms but will definitely check both this morning. I am going to run back through the whole system and see what happens. When we had the flywheel off the magnets all looked good.Thanks
Ranger520vx Posted July 20, 2019 Author Posted July 20, 2019 Think may have chased it down to the pack. Went back through everything this morning and here are the peak voltages readings I got. Orange to orange and black hooked to the pack 8 volts running and rectifier hooked up spikes to 12 volts when it dies and right at 12v with rectifier unhooked and doesn't die and 60v unhooked from the pack. Brown to brown and yellow 350v unhooked from the pack, then motor running and rectifier hooked up it jumps around between 230v-250v till it dies and motor running rectifier unhooked it is 275v and doesn't die. Checked timer base again just to be thorough white wire to purple blue and green each one of them were 2v unhooked from the pack and 10v hooked to the pack only thing I wasn't sure about was the specs. you posted says .6v or more hooked to and unhooked from the pack. The CDI specs I have say same thing unless it is 1988 and newer then it says it should be 100v-400v when hooked to the pack. What leads me to think it's the pack is I checked peak voltage on the orange wires from the pack to the coils and instead of 150v+ I have 4v and timer and stator all seem to be within specs for voltage and ohms. Didn't post ohms readings because didn't write it down but the were all in specs.
fishinwrench Posted July 21, 2019 Posted July 21, 2019 On 7/20/2019 at 11:21 AM, Ranger520vx said: The CDI specs I have say same thing unless it is 1988 and newer then it says it should be 100v-400v when hooked to the pack. I think that (the difference) has to do with the Quik-start and/or SLOW function that was added to the power packs after '87
Ranger520vx Posted July 21, 2019 Author Posted July 21, 2019 Ok thanks. So am I thinking right or am I as crazy as this thing is making me feel that if all the other components are well within specs then it is pointing to the fact that we got a bad pack?
fishinwrench Posted July 22, 2019 Posted July 22, 2019 6 hours ago, Ranger520vx said: Ok thanks. So am I thinking right or am I as crazy as this thing is making me feel that if all the other components are well within specs then it is pointing to the fact that we got a bad pack? Well, I'm not very confident in the bad pack theory to be honest, because that doesn't explain it not dying when the charge coils are disconnected. I'm actually thinking that a bad stator is effecting the pack output. But I really don't know. I had a somewhat similar ordeal on a 2 cylinder 35hp once that I had to replace the stator, rectifier, and the Ppack to cure it, and I never did know (or figure out) which of the 3 components were truly bad because they all tested good, but when hooked up together produced erratic fire on THAT motor. I kept them and used those parts SUCCESSFULLY and SEPARATELY on other motors without any issue whatsoever. Those were OEM components though. CDI stuff is good, I usually prefer them to OEM, especially on Mercury's, but maybe.....just maybe...... ya know 😏
Ranger520vx Posted July 22, 2019 Author Posted July 22, 2019 Yeah bad stator would probably make more sense guess we will keep messing with it and see if we can figure something out. If we get something figured out I will post back and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the input.
fishinwrench Posted July 22, 2019 Posted July 22, 2019 Try CDI's Tech Support and see what they say. They might be willing to send you a new stator and rectifier without hitting your boys wallet again.
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