Electronics Now Have Their Own Power Source

[rps]

Today Mr. 11 thumbs (me) installed a new 60AH Lithium Ion deep discharge battery in my boat and connected the electronics and its own charger to it. The starting battery now has only two connections, one to start the engine and one to recharge. The accessories will go on the battery with the sonars.

[fishinwrench]

All Gauges, Running lights, Interior lights, Bilge pump, and All Trim switches really should remain powered by the engine cranking battery.   

Simply swapping over the Acc battery leads to a separate battery will negate your voltmeter, kill any additional trim switches except for the one on the throttle arm, negate a trim guage (if so equipped),  and will possibly fry your tachometer.     

That modification is definitely NOT Wrench Approved (as if that mattered).  

[fishinwrench]

Do the battery leads from your lithium ion CHARGER have inline fuses ?

If not then they REALLY should.  KaBOOM can happen !   

I've witnessed  KaBOOM, and it's pretty scary. 😱

[rps]

3 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

Do the battery leads from your lithium ion CHARGER have inline fuses ?

If not then they REALLY should.  KaBOOM can happen !   

I've witnessed  KaBOOM, and it's pretty scary. 😱

Yes, they do. And thanks for the tip on the accessories.

[Dutch]

Generally speaking, sonar/gps units are all that are hooked to the house batteries.  They draw so much juice that they dont need any company.

[fishinwrench]

I have a Triton here awaiting service that as soon as you turn the Master Power switch on you start smelling wires getting hot SOMEWHERE.   There is a ridiculous number of (mostly unnecessary) circuits in this boat and no breakers are tripping.  

The only solution I have for the guy is to begin a complete rewire......and boy what a project that's gonna be. 🙄 

[bfishn]

The electrical requirements of todays' fishing boats have finally made us take another look at traditional layout and wiring. That's a good thing, 'cause we needed it. One thing I've not seen discussed is the 'common grounding' of multiple and independent power sources. That means the ground of a 24-36V system is connected with the -12V, not every battery. This isn't hull grounding, just a #14 connecting the proper  battery grounds. The purpose is to equalize the various systems' ground potential in relation to the real ground of your big motor in the water. It solves a host of interference issues, reduces electrolysis on your l/u, and is cheap and easy to do.