I'd like to take a survey of all the fly fishermen and fisher ladies in the world and find out what the number one favorite fly fishing technique is-- casting dries to rising trout, stripping woollies in big, swirling pools, fishing wind-chopped water with a strike indicator and weighted nymph or jig or dead drifting in steadily moving water with or without an indicator for feeding trout under the surface. Which would win out and which would be dead last??
Part of the answer, I guess, would be the availability of those types of water conditions to the angler. Second would be experience. But putting all that aside, what would be your favorite way to catch trout? Mine-- dry fly fishing. It takes a good and accurate cast with the right fly to earn the strike in most cases. Second would be stripping woollies... and third would be the dead drift. Why am I writing on this technique if it seemingly it not one of my favorites? Because to do it right, it takes just as much skill and finesse as throwing that dry fly and I've come to find out most fly fishermen don't understand the basics.
Basic #1. Fly selection. It goes without saying, the type of nymph should match the food base for that particular water. Size of the fly also depends on the food base but it also depends on the speed of the current and visibility factor-- how clear is the water. The cloudier the water the bigger fly you use. The clearer it is, the smaller the fly. That doesn't mean a small fly won't work in cloudy water or visa versa-- it's just a general rule.
Basic #2. Tippet selection. Diameter should match the fly and water conditions both. It should also match the size of fish you're going after. If the water clarity is high and speed is slow, you may have to go with a small diameter line like 7x or 8x (1- to 2- pound). Faster current-- you may want to increase the diameter to 6x or even 5x, depending on the size bug you're using. A small fly, like #18, you really can't use 5x because the line may not fit through the eye! Common scense plays a part in some the selection. Another thing to consider.... if you're using, say 7x tippet and you know there's 3 and 4 pounders out there, and you have a real good chance to hook one or two, you'll literally kill the fish in the fight, especially if the water quality is not so good. This happens all to much here on Lake Taneycomo in the fall and our brown trout run. Someone hooks a big brown, 6 pounds say, on 6x tippet and fights it for 20 minutes. The brown is exhausted and cannot be revived in the low oxygen water conditions. Even if you wanted to, you couldn't release the fish. What to do? Use heavier tippet or break the fish off half way through the fight to save the fish's life. Either that or decide to kill it before the fight goes too far. Just don't fight the fish to death and then discover you've killed it unwillingly.
Basic #3. Strike indicator. Size, color and where you put it on you line is crucial. If you're fishing very clear water and over spooky fish, you don't want to drop a big indicator on top of them only to scatter them to deeper, darker pools. Use an indicator you can see well. Use the smallest allowed, dictated by the size nymph you're using. You don't want the weight of the fly or the added weight you may have to add to the line to get the fly down to pull the float down. Use a dry fly if conditions warrant it. Tie the dry on and then tie the dropper tippet to the bend in the hook. Use enough tapered leader from your fly line so none of your fly line enters the area where the fish are holding. In another words, don't connect your float to the end of your fly line. If you're fishing to real spooky fish, use 14 foot of tapered leader (add to it if needed), then your indicator, then your tippet.
Basic #4. Learn the water. Look to see where holes or pockets are where fish will hold or hide. Look at the water currents around those areas, especially the current between you and the pocket. Is the currents slower at the pocket than the current in front of you? Are there several swirling eddies between you the the fish? All these factors will dictate where you lay your cast and how you will mend your line. The depth of water at the pockets and upstream of the pocket dictates how deep you set your strike indicator, if you're using one. If you're not, you'll have to gage how much weight to use to get the best drift to your holding fish.
Basic #5. Mending the line. This is where experience and finesse takes over. What you want to accomplish it a completely dead drift. Your fly must look like its free-flowing downstream with the current, not encumbered by a line and a float that would tend to drag it through the pocket like a guy walking a dog. You get this affect by mending your fly line according to currents speeds and eddies that your fly line travels over. Like I said, it takes practice-- trial and error. Using the tip of your fly rod and your wrist, flip the line just enough to move only the fly line, not the float. Watch the float. If it is dragging at all through the target area, your fly will be riding up in the current and will not be where you want it to be- in front of the fish's face. You may have to mend several time through a drift, another reason to allow lots of leader between you fly line and your float. If your flipping your fly line close to the target area, fish will spook. Don't get confused during the drift. You may have to mend your line downstream at the beginning of the drift, then mend upstream in the middle and again at the end. It sounds hard but once you have the touch, you'll see the benefits- fish on!!
Basic #6. This is the easy one-- recognizing the strike. I find myself watching the trout I'm aiming for too much and not the float. Many times another trout has moved over and taken my fly and the indicator has vanished and I'm still watching the same trout-- still motionless. The indicator will simply stop when the trout takes the bug. But depending on where the bug was in conjunction to the float, the float may not stop at the exact moment the bug is taken. The bug may have been drifting in front of the float and the float may have to catch up before it shows a strike. Therefore, the set must be sharp. Set the hook with the rod coming either straight up of angled downstream. Why downstream? If you set the hook upstream, all you may be doing is pulling the hook out of the fish's mouth (fish always point upstream). Setting the hook downstream is setting the hook back in it's mouth.
Basic #7. The fight. This isn't just for dead drifting but for any type of fly fishing. I've found that by holding the rod close to the water sideways, I can put allot more pressure on the fish without risk of breaking the line. I learned this fight big chinook salmon in Michigan. If you get the fish to the surface of the water, holding the rod up is good but if it's pulling away from you, holding the rod tip close to the water will turn the head of the fish more efficiently. Finish the fight as quickly as possible if you're intentions is to release the fish. Don't handle a trout is at all possible. And the last thing I leave you with-- remember fishing is a privilege, not a right. Don't abuse it, enjoy it. Enjoy fishing and all the blessings God has given to us.
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