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fishinwrench

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Everything posted by fishinwrench

  1. fishinwrench
    The ones that hurt are the stretches like where 5 hwy. crosses the Osage fork. They look so good....but you can't fish them without risking a major hassle and possibly a day in court.
  2. fishinwrench
    They gotta start small, right? I mean they don't just pop up like popcorn. Or do they?
  3. fishinwrench
    I'm not 100% but I think so.
  4. fishinwrench
    Any endeavor can be made expensive, but its seldom necessary.
  5. fishinwrench
    Woah! That's a big channel cat.
  6. fishinwrench
    Why pump it out when opening the drain valve does the same thing ? You're just adding more hoses and electrical circuits to eventually fail and cause you problems. Water seeks its own level and the bottoms of livewells are still higher than the surface of the lake, or no more than a couple inches below.
  7. fishinwrench
    Sure, but that type of installation holds water (enough to freeze and bust pumps and valves). So keep some RV antifreeze around to splash the livewells with when it gets cold.
  8. fishinwrench
    Nice mess ! How the heck do you get a 1/32oz jig down to 25' ? The crappie have been right up on the bank in the upper Gravi, less than 5'.
  9. fishinwrench
    Aww, Thanks man. Glad you're happy. Now go get those big hybrids!
  10. fishinwrench
    Unless the bottom of the LW is lower than the surface of the water, what do you need a pump-out for ? Just open the drain and let gravity do its thing.
  11. fishinwrench
    Ned rig !
  12. fishinwrench
    I always switched mine off, or if on "auto" it was on a 5/5 timer so if I left it on....no biggie.
  13. fishinwrench
    Possibly a bad TPS, but several other things need to be checked/tested also. You can't do it yourself so get it somewhere before you run it again. If you slam it into gear at 1300RPM you'll be having gearcase problems that are way more costly than the elevated idle. I had one in yesterday that had a rodent nest under the cowling, jacking up the linkage. Guess you could check for that yourself.
  14. fishinwrench
    Well piss! You made me type and draw all that crap for nuthin?
  15. fishinwrench
    Awesomeness! Those sliders look evil.
  16. fishinwrench
    No, you can't draw fresh water while on plane. I tournament fished/guided for 14 years (many of those out of a late 80's Champion)....and that issue never cost me a single fish.
  17. fishinwrench
    Go with an old Pfluger medalist. Those Martins are junk.
  18. fishinwrench
    What crankbait hits 20'? April fools !
  19. fishinwrench
    Picture time... Simplest of all systems. Obviously if you want both LW running (spraying) at the same time then you'll run 2 pumps, each to its own spray bar, and eliminate the Y.
  20. fishinwrench
    What do you need a plug for ? The valve goes on the drain line (that's your "plug"). Closed holds water/Open lets it out. The overflow handles the excess so you don't flood the boat. A thumb-valve at the spray bars allows you to decide which, or if BOTH livewells get water.
  21. fishinwrench
    The pump/valve option is a bad design, it allows water to stay trapped in that conglomerate of bullshit, which freezes in the winter and breaks stuff. Thru-hull pumps are the way to go. Keep it simple....A thru-hull pump going straight to the spray bar(s). An open overflow. And a valve on the drain.
  22. fishinwrench
    This one would charge about 350-400 P&L cuz I'm cranky and don't wanna do it. You can prolly get it done for 200 though somewhere.
  23. fishinwrench
    I hate it. Too many connections. That's ridiculous. Reminds me of a Triton. Stupid!
  24. fishinwrench
    Those valves are confusing until you've dealt with them awhile. Seems simple and self explanatory.... But they're not. Cable position dictates valve direction. You only understand after you've hooked about 4 of them up backwards.
  25. fishinwrench
    Welcome to my world. There's no easy way out. It always sucks. No you don't need a Pump Out, or a recirc unless you are competing in the BassMaster Classic where you'll be trailering 50+ miles to a weigh-in. When you redo it go with thru-hull pumps and eliminate some hose clamps. Valves only need to be on the drains. Oh, and your bilge pump needs to be further back.
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