fishinwrench

Wheeeeew! It is gettn deep in here.

No, I don't "winterize" mine either. Just make sure when you pull it out at the ramp that you let the motor back down (vertical) to let all the water drain out. If you have a water pressure guage and,/or pitot type speedometer on the helm it's good to unhook the hose(s) behind the guage(s) and blow the water out of them. It's also a pretty good idea to splash a little RV anti-freeze into your livewell drains and leave the drain valves OPEN. And last but not least.... pull your bottom gearcase oil drain screw and get a small sample of the lube, if it is milky white or there is any signs of water go ahead and pull the vent plug and drain it completely until you can arrange to have the seals checked/replaced.

You don't get it, Joe..... I'm in the spirit world VanDammit !

It's a riddle, right? Beer bong/Beer thong

Huh? What's that about?

LOL, That wouldn't raise the Miss but a few inches for a few days. The banks of the Salt are unstable so a sudden dump would just result in all that water blowing out into bean fields. This has to be a joke, right? It would be cool to see LO and Truman sucked dry though.

I gotta disagree. The Hotspot mapping is so far off on LO, Truman, and Mark Twain that it's rediculis. The old yellow Structure Graphic paper maps are the most accurate that I have ever seen for these lakes, but even they suck in the upper creek arm areas and back 1/2 of all coves. There hasn't been THAT degree of contour and channel change due to erosion. Those contours on Hotpot are something that a 4 year old child could improve on. Not attempting to dog any products, I have just always wondered how/why they can get pretty close to accurate on midlake areas but just go completely off the charts on the upper ends.

And that has been an issue with lake mapping ever since the first topo-map was printed. Once you enter a max area depth of 15' maps do not show accurate structure or even an accurate shoreline contour or channel location. When you stop to realize that most fish are caught shallower than 15' it kinda makes you wonder if these maps are helping you or hurting you. What is the problem there anyway? If 20+ft areas are supposedly accurate (to a degree) then why are the shallower areas so far off? Is the mapping any more "correct" on any of these units than the paper maps are? There are tons of points, humps, ledges, and flats that do not show up on any map or mapping software I have ever seen, and many even show structure contours that are not even there.

4 dollar grubs.....40 dollar Wiggle warts....... 50 dollar jerkbaits......(and that's acceptable). That does it, my labor rate just went up an additional 20/hr. and I don't wanna hear no bitchin'.

Just throwing out options. If navigating tight turns and irregular courses weaving through boulders or deadfalls is a primary concern then a hull narrower than 52 would be a better choice I think. The advantage of a wider hull is a shallower draft and more stability (and space), the disadvantage is overall weight and less maneuverability. The best setup IMO should play to the strengths of the hull chosen.

That's good, cuz it could use a lot more friends!

The system check harness will have the tach sender circuit (gray) in the plug, so yeah it's plug and play. I have never seen a digital SC tach. I may have a used SC analog tach. If I still have it it is white with a black bezel.

It is a state of mind. A comfort zone that you fall into when you know in your gut that you're doing the right thing at the right time so all of your concentration can be applied to the act of carrying it through.

Right on! That makes the 4th report like that I've heard over the last three days. Seems to be alot of 10-11inchers dominating the brushpiles and outer edges of the docks FINALLY. Guess I need to go get a mess or two while the gettin' is easy. Think I'll try'em on the flyrod though.

No signs of any Whites or Hybrids I guess?

Were the spots full of worms?

I'm ready whenever you are. Are you sure you want it tiller? If your butt is further forward you'll get on plane quicker, run shallower, and see better.

Couldn't have been me, I don't even own a pair of high heels Tell me what you love the most about your 4S , maybe I'll change my mind.

Ahh, regulator fire! I love that. Lemme guess, the tach quit working a while before that, and you weren't in the habit of glancing at the voltmeter from time to time ?

LOL, Ok. Here's my top picks....It means nothing other than the fact that I have made friends with them all, approve of the design and never have to scratch my head wondering "WTF?", never feel compelled to throw things, and never have to study all night long just to make 40 bucks swapping out a sensor. Here we go; 9.5hp and under.... mid 80's to 1998 Yamaha 9.9-15hp... 1981 to 1992 J/E 20-35hp... 1981 to 2005 J/E 40hp... 1984 to 2005 J/E 45hp... 1986 to 1989 Merc (classic) 50hp... 1981 to 2005 J/E 70hp... 1984 to 2008 Yamaha 75hp... 2004 to 2007 Evin E-Tec 85hp... 1979 to 1995 J/E 90-115hp... 1995 to 2006 J/E (60° V4 eagle series) 150-175hp... 1991 to 2006 Evin (60° V6 eagle) 200hp... 1991 and up Merc 2.5 liter EFI I have yet to see a 4-Stroke in any hp range that I wanted to own. IMO the only good thing about a 4S outboard is that when they do run well they are quiet....that's it, everything else about them just sucks and they are a PIA to work on.

I dunno, nobody I know has ever bought a second one. I just thought you might need a tow rope in case there were any Honda's on the river. I was just pullin' yer chain man.

Don't forget the tow rope

Go onto the menu function and select "simulator". If the lines are still there then the head unit is toast. You could try to send it in, and call and whine alot.....but I doubt they'll feel sorry for you unless the unit is really fresh.

Who doesn't love being talked about like that? THANKS J ! And don't sweat the fishing permit.....it's a write-off

Outstanding! Good job!