Outboard Winterizing Routine

[fishinwrench]

I've had a few requests for outboard / bassboat winterizing instructions already, so I thought I'd just post it up for those about to give it up for the season.

1. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank. (EFI/DFI engines need to be run with treated fuel prior to winter storage, carb engines don't).

2. pull the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders.

3. With the engine straight up and down, crank the engine over for a few seconds with the spark plugs out. (this distributes the fogging oil around the cylinders, and clears the water pump housing of any trapped water), then put the plugs back in.

4. remove the upper and lower gearcase drain screws and drain lube from the lower unit. Check the condition of the screw gaskets (fiber washers) and replace if needed. Refill from the bottom until lube comes out the top hole, then install the top screw first.(that keeps you from loosing very much lube while installing the bottom screw).

If there is more than 1/4 cup of water in the gearcase, or the lube appears white and milky you have a seal leaking. It's normal to have a few teaspoons of water come out before the lube starts draining, that's just from condensation.

5. Bend the prop nut locking tabs free of the prop bushing grooves and remove the prop nut and the prop. Remove the thrust washer (3' stainless disk behind the prop) and remove any fishing line that might be around the propshaft. Wipe the shaft clean, rub some grease on it, and put the prop back on. Don't forget the bend the locking tabs into the grooves on the bushing.

6. Open the livewell drains and pour some RV antifreeze (pink/non-toxic) into the livewells until it comes out the drains on the back of the boat.

7. Remove the speedometer tubing from the back of the speedo (under the dash) and blow all the water out of it. If you have a water pressure gauge on the dash do the same with it. (I've only seen ONE pressure gauge burst in 25 years, but if I don't mention it somebody will sure enough catch me on it) LOL

8. Disconnect all battery leads, check the electrolyte level in the batterys and top off if needed with distilled water (gel-cell guys can skip this). Charge batterys to full capacity and leave them disconnected. Charge them up again every 60 days or so if possible.

9. Store the motor straight up and down (not tilted) if possible. If you have to keep it tilted be sure to cover the lower unit with a plastic bag or something so that rain water, ice, or snow doesn't build up inside the exhaust cavity.

If your blessed with stray cats, chipmunks, field mice, or other homeless critters, it doesn't hurt to put a dish full of moth balls here and there under the boat cover, and even a few inside the engine cowling.

Your DONE ! Kiss her ni-nite

[sportshop]

great info, thanks so much

[denjac]

As to no. 5 what tourque to you tightin it back down? Heard alot of differant thoughts on that through the years. Nice tips!

[fishinwrench]

As to no. 5 what tourque to you tightin it back down? Heard alot of differant thoughts on that through the years. Nice tips!

Snug it up firm, then tighten further as needed to align the locking tabs (merc) or cotter pin (J/E). Nobody that I know uses a torque wrench on the prop nut, you just want it snug and secure.

[Ham]

Hey Wrench, how often do you need to get the boat out during the cold water time to avoid the winterizing stuff?

I'll likely not go too often in the big boat once water temp drops below 40 degrees UNLESS we get a multiday warming trend. Once it heads up from 40 degrees, I'll hit it again. I still think I'll get out once a month or so. I have the boat in covered storage, but it does get sub freezing in the boat barn.

BTW, I had a water pressure guage freeze and bust while my boat was at the shop last year. So that makes two cases you've heard of.

[fishinwrench]

Ham, I have customers (mostly dock builders, and fishermen) that never winterize their outboards, and I never winterize mine either.

As long as you are using it, no worries. Just be sure to keep the motor straight up and down (not tilted) during freezing conditions so that all the water drains from the powerhead and water pump housing. And make sure there's no water in the gearcase (check and change gearlube often).

Those of us that use them all year just have to take a chance on piddly things like speedo's, livewell drains, and W/P guages, and we just DEAL with stiff steering in the early morning hours, and chunks of ice in the livewells.

Truth be known: Outboards LOVE to breathe cold crisp air.

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Here's a few tips for operating in cold temps:

Always pull your bilge plug after trailering, and DON'T forget to put it back in before launch. (attach it to your key floater with a twist-tie when you take it out).

Before leaving the trailer run the steering wheel back and forth (lock to lock) a few times.

Leave livewell valves OPEN, and never attempt to close them FORCEFULLY if the air temp is below freezing. A frozen plastic livewell valve will break easily, and will put a ton of water in the boat fast, and you might not know it until water starts coming out of the floor drain.

Same goes with bilge and livewell pumps, if they are frozen stuck you'll blow a fuse, or breaker when you hit the switch (or if the auto switch is activated). So carry extra fuses if so equipped, and get familiar with which ones go where.

PFD's and kill switches ALWAYS

If you fall overboard in a bassboat while dressed in heavy winter clothing you won't be able to crawl back in, so don't waste time and energy trying....use the cavitation plate of the motor as a step and operate the tilt switch on the side of the motor cowling to lift you back into the boat.

A thermos full of hot sweet Tea and a shot (or two) of cinnamon Schnapp's (Hot darn) will kill the shivers quick, so you can get back to the truck FAST if you notice signs of becoming hypothermic. I know this goes against the rules for combating hypothermia but you can't drive a boat when you are shivering out of your skin, and time is what you are really combating.

Geeze, I hate thinking about Winter already. Where did the Summer go ? It's all a blur

[dave potts]

I was glad to see your tip on using mothballs to ward off mice and rodents. I've been doing this for years and have never had a problem. I didn't know if it was the mothballs or just luck as I had never really read about using them but it just seemed to me that the smell would repel mice. I put a handfull in a small open dish and put a dish in all the storage compartments and more dishes scattered around the floor.

Dave

[mosouthpaw]

peppermint oil keeps the mice away and smells better... just wet a cottonball with the oil and place in boat