Battery Rundown

[fozzype]

I run a 225 optimax. I have to constantly monitor my voltage to keep from being dead on the water. The starting battery is seperate from the trolling batteries. The trolling batteries are only hooked to the trolling motor. If I run my graphs (5" lowrance 520c) and my livewell pumps the starting battery draws down pretty fast.

The battery checks out OK and is the Oreilly dual purpose with 1000 amps. This is the best dual purpose battery they have. It could be a bad one as no real way to check the reserve.

I have been looking at a "better" battery.

Does anybody else have similiar problems ? Any suggestions with better solutions ?

Thanks in advance.

[Matt Henry]

I run a 225 optimax. I have to constantly monitor my voltage to keep from being dead on the water. The starting battery is seperate from the trolling batteries. If I run my graphs (5" lowrance 520c) and my livewell pumps it draws down pretty fast.

The battery checks out OK and is the Oreilly dual purpose with 1000 amps. This is the best dual purpose battery they have. It could be a bad one as no real way to check the reserve.

I have been looking at a "better" battery.

Does anybody else have similiar problems ? Any suggestions with better solutions ?

Thanks in advance.

I would suggest switching using Interstate trolling motor batteries that are non dual purpose. A starting battery for you engine and straight trolling motor batteries for your trolling motor. They dont have as many cold cranking amps but will last longer than the dual purpose. It does sound like you have a bad battery.

[Gone Fishing]

I run a 225 optimax. I have to constantly monitor my voltage to keep from being dead on the water. The starting battery is seperate from the trolling batteries. The trolling batteries are only hooked to the trolling motor. If I run my graphs (5" lowrance 520c) and my livewell pumps the starting battery draws down pretty fast.

The battery checks out OK and is the Oreilly dual purpose with 1000 amps. This is the best dual purpose battery they have. It could be a bad one as no real way to check the reserve.

I have been looking at a "better" battery.

Does anybody else have similiar problems ? Any suggestions with better solutions ?

Thanks in advance.

Fozzy I feel your pain. In the summer especially when running the livewells all day and 2 different graphs with 2 seperate GPS pucks I could only make it around 6 hrs on my cranking battery. So I went out and bought another cranking battery to solve the problem but it still only lasted around 6rhs. My solution though not a good one is I put an extra battery in the boat and switch over to it alittle after noon. It is alot of extra weight but atleast it gets me to weigh in on time.

[denjac]

Do you ever charge the starting battery before going out? I always charge mine just like the trolling batteries.

[Puma Jim]

mercs require a lot of juice to start. How old is your battery? To me more than four years and you are on borrowed time. I highly recommend the Sears 31P. It is a heavy battery but to me the best on the market and that merc will love it. It also has a three year warranty. I feel that interstates are not very reliable and I'll leave it at that. It really comes down to how much fishing you do and how far you travel and risk being stranded. I always carry jumper cables and a battery booster. Good luck

[Bill Babler]

Foz, that battery is bad. Was having the same problem, and bought the best cranking battery that walmart had and have not had a bit of a problem since. All the brands are good. I would of course bought a ProGuide, but needed it fast and walmart was there. I can run both my recycle pumps, have my lights on and run both big screen LCD graphs all day no problem. Just go buy a new crankin battery, and your problem I bet will be solved.

[Golf Pro]

Check this out:

http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread?id=346429-batteries-that-meet-the-requirement-this-just-in

Copied from a BBC board on batteries. These batteries are expensive as I have checked prices on many of them.

[Stump bumper]

I like Battery Outfitters and the Pro Guide batteries because they will do a load test for you before the battrey goes out the door. I have bought some good blimsh batteries from them at half price and had them pull load test on 3 different batteries before I chose one. Some of the Advanced Auto parts will do that too, but a lot of times the counter person doesn't know the difference between a voltage meter and a load tester.

I bought a new battery for the wife's mini van at Advanced because of a 40% online discount and it was rated for 720 cold cranking amps but when I put it in the van it wouldn't crank, the voltage meter said 13.1 but the load tester read 300, they tested two more batteries before finding one that actually read 700.

Have you pulled a load test on that battery? I know you said checks out but checks out on what?

[dtrs5kprs]

Foz, that battery is bad. Was having the same problem, and bought the best cranking battery that walmart had and have not had a bit of a problem since. All the brands are good. I would of course bought a ProGuide, but needed it fast and walmart was there. I can run both my recycle pumps, have my lights on and run both big screen LCD graphs all day no problem. Just go buy a new crankin battery, and your problem I bet will be solved.

Changed batteries for the same reason when I was down last June. Pulled the cranker out and picked up a new one from Ulrich. But, it was the original 2005 battery Cabelas put in it. Might have gotten my money out of it.

Used to run the old Delco Voyagers for that reason, but they seem hard to come by these days. Believe the one from Ulrich is a ProGuide, TM batts are high end from BPS and have been super.

[TRRANGER]

Foz I had a problem like yours also, I bought an optima gel 31 series starting battery it fires my two stroke 175 merc and runs graphs light and aerators and never given me a problem. Pricey yes but itg wont ever let you down. Had them in both my boats. Cant go wrong IMO TR