Feathers and Fins Posted June 26, 2012 Author Posted June 26, 2012 The white shingles are something I hear a lot. Do they work Not that I can tell. I have been in Attics with all colors on durring summer and they are all scorching hot. Now the houses with ventilation done right you can feel the differance. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
Wayne SW/MO Posted June 26, 2012 Posted June 26, 2012 what happened to attic fans? I've put a lot of them in, but truthfully I never thought they moved as much air as the turbine style. Those thing will really ramp up on a hot day and the use the rising heat to operate. Today's release is tomorrows gift to another fisherman.
Feathers and Fins Posted June 26, 2012 Author Posted June 26, 2012 what happened to attic fans? Still around I see and install plenty of them each year, The best system is Ridge Vents in combination with Soffit Vents. I really try and talk people into them. Besides I hate getting a call out to change out motors on attic fans only to have some furry critter with a blade stuck in it. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
jdmidwest Posted June 27, 2012 Posted June 27, 2012 Heat rises and if white shingles reflect heat, in theory it should draw heat away in the winter from the roof and the house. Why not a reversible roof system? Of course, in some locales, you have enough snow to make the roof white in winter. Energy efficiency is a great idea. Not only does it save resources, it saves money. I am all electric at present time. I would love to install water heaters on demand on my faucets and showers, they are a great idea. Downside, electric ones are not really that efficient or produce enough hot water like the LP ones. Solar power is great, if it really caught on and became more affordable. Ground source heating and cooling is great, but it is expensive and has its quirks. Hard water, size of your lot of land, and expense is its downside. With all of our technological capabilities, we should be able to design homes that are energy efficient, affordable, practical, and appealing. Unfortunately, most are built without much planning, use the cheapest materials and contruction methods, and are way overpriced for what you get based on the market. The only things most splurge on in new homes affect the curb appeal, not practical values. Most don't think about the efficiency of the home in the long haul. "Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously." — Hunter S. Thompson
Feathers and Fins Posted June 27, 2012 Author Posted June 27, 2012 You hit the nail on the head JD, curb and interior beauty is what most people want. I see houses every day being build below code standards. To build a say 2,400sqft home the way it should be build would add around 12 to 16 thousand to building cost. To give you an example of cost of not buidling it right, you see houses with the petra type stone on them and if they are not flashed right to repair it I cant do it without taking down all the stone house wraping it flash it correct. Average cost is about 15 to 17 thousand to do that. The correct flashing done on the original build would be maybe another 800.00. That is insurance pricing not just an off the wall bid price. I would love to see all codes enforced and all states under minimum 2006 IBC. Simple stuff but most builders ( not all )skimp on because they know the inspectors dont care. And I cant tell you how many homes I see build on lousy foundations. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
Members Yakfly Posted June 28, 2012 Members Posted June 28, 2012 F and F - I need to get a new roof on my house, and I'l love you hear your opinion on the best install in regards to energy efficiency. I currently have soffitt vents and 1 gable end screen, but no ridge vent or turbines. What would you recommend in terms of venting? Also, I heard something years ago about a radiant barrier that could be installed under the roof inside the attic - would that be useful? Also, I have a pretty gig "builders gap" between my lower roof deck and the fascia board (I think I have the terminology right.) A while back I flashed this gap with galvanized metal to keep critters out. Did I do damage to the attic ventilation by doing this? Good topic and thanks.
Members Yakfly Posted June 28, 2012 Members Posted June 28, 2012 How deep of a hole would you have to make to get the cool air year round. Could you dig out a hole the size of a normal swimming pool, put in some kind of vault, and cover it up, and then pump that air into your house all year long would it be beneficial? Or would it have to be deeper than 10 feet? Sounds like geothermal heating/cooling - using the huge mass of earth as a heat sink. Use anitfreeze as the media due to high thermal absorption/desorption. Big criticism on geothermal I've heard is you have to be really tight and insulated or you don't get the benefit - installation quality is critical.
Feathers and Fins Posted June 28, 2012 Author Posted June 28, 2012 F and F - I need to get a new roof on my house, and I'l love you hear your opinion on the best install in regards to energy efficiency. I currently have soffitt vents and 1 gable end screen, but no ridge vent or turbines. What would you recommend in terms of venting? Also, I heard something years ago about a radiant barrier that could be installed under the roof inside the attic - would that be useful? Also, I have a pretty gig "builders gap" between my lower roof deck and the fascia board (I think I have the terminology right.) A while back I flashed this gap with galvanized metal to keep critters out. Did I do damage to the attic ventilation by doing this? Good topic and thanks. Shingles will depend on the pitch of your roof 3/12 and above Arch 30 is standard and best bang for your buck, you could of course go with some of the newer synthetic shingles being produced but the cost is high. Underlayment 15lb felt is standard but I would go with Ice and water shield for the underlayment instead ( it really helps stop leaks ). I would get a contractor who can do the energy calcs on your house and advise them you are wanting to close off the gable end vent and go with soffit vents and ridge vent. Next is proper insulation in the attic. Those two things will do a world of good. the radiant barrier I honestly have not seen any differance in attic temp or decking lasting longer. The gap you are talking about is hard when i cant see it. Soffits need to breath so if you sealed them than possibly you did damage to the longevity of the roof. 26g gav is correct for flashing. But again without seeing it all first hand im speculating. When you are taking bids on your roof call your insurance and see if they have anyone they suggest, also be sure to check on their licensing and get a copy of their insurance also make it clear that you want the job done to 2006 IBC and Shingle manufactures specs ( especially the nailing) I see to many roofs not nailed correctly. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beaver-Lake-Arkansas-Fishing-Report/745541178798856
stlfisher Posted June 28, 2012 Posted June 28, 2012 They make software in wich you can control your thermostat from your smart phone. It is about $400 to install, but with the accompaning app you can turn your heat/air on and off from your phone. The initial expense can make up for it in savins over the long run. This may be more conservation than efficiancy, but you can subsribe to wind power. The way it work is I pay $10 extra a month and whatever electricicity I use is replaced on the power grid with wind power. Each time a new subsriber signs up more power is generated by wind. It requires nothing on your part besides an extra $10. If your in Missouri just call Ameren and ask.
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