Electronics Confusion

[Bill Babler]

dblades is right. You want regular 2D sonar.

Both side imaging and down imaging require constant boat movement in order to get a true reading. By nature, they are "scan" units that operate not unlike a CT scanner used for medical purposes. Besides, you won't purchase a side-scan or down-scan unit for $450.

I won't go so far as to recommend a certain model because there are folks here who know far more than I about such things.

This is correct.

Most all deep water fisherman use sonar. Myself, not only do I use the 2d, but also real time which is on the extreme right hand side of the screen that works like the old flasher units. On my HDS8. I can tell in a second how far each target is not only from the bottom of the lake but from the bottom of the boat. I can see my bait and line at all times I can move it into the correct position or into the correct area of the water column the fish are in. I see the fish take my presentation about 95% of the time and most times can tell my clients just as a bite occurs.

I can see the thermocline and also see any movement the fish makes to or away from the bait. I can also see the fish and the bait inside any cover that is present.

I have tried down scan and cannot see nearly as well, or fish as completely as I can with the sonar. I'm not ordering either down or side scan on my new boat.

[inshore]

I agree with Mr. Babler. Have a 898 HB SI and a 597 hd on the front. 2d sonar and real time is the best way tofish under the boat .Like bill says you can see it all along with the strike. Like the HB's as they are simple to learn and use.

[lmt out]

I have the Hummingbird 596c DI and I love it I mostly jig fish for walleye and crappie I use split screen most of the time with 2D and DI. I believe cabelas has them on sale for $399.00 I just looked at them in the Cabelas fishing catalog.

[CaptainJoe]

Agree with Bill.....you want 2D sonar for real time and to be able to see your bait drop and act in the water. I'd purchase the best 2d sonar for the money you are willing to spend. I have an HDS-10 and video fish with the 2d sonar.

[Billfo]

Thanks for all the replies. To follow up, I removed the cheap finder off the trolling motor & installed it on an elderly neighbors boat (works great for his use). I moved my older 2D color Lowrance to the trolling motor. This was my old GPS/Sonar unit that was having GPS issues dispite reloading software for unit AND antenna.. ANYWAY- Not using the Lowrance gps portion anymore. It works well for sonar only. I see my lure moving up & down & with the fastest chart speed- it shows movement at real time. So now I need to find fish.....................and I eventually will replace the console GPS/Sonar unit to one where the GPS ALWAYS works.

It is hard work being cheap !

[dtrs5kprs]

Thanks for all the replies. To follow up, I removed the cheap finder off the trolling motor & installed it on an elderly neighbors boat (works great for his use). I moved my older 2D color Lowrance to the trolling motor. This was my old GPS/Sonar unit that was having GPS issues dispite reloading software for unit AND antenna.. ANYWAY- Not using the Lowrance gps portion anymore. It works well for sonar only. I see my lure moving up & down & with the fastest chart speed- it shows movement at real time. So now I need to find fish.....................and I eventually will replace the console GPS/Sonar unit to one where the GPS ALWAYS works.

It is hard work being cheap !

Let us know which GPS always works. There will be a serious run on them at BPS .

Think you made a superb choice. If you can see the bottom, the fish, any bait swimming around, and your bait you are on the right path. I like playing with the new down scans, but am still running an old X15 at the bow because it shows what I need it to, and is as close to bulletproof as I have encountered. Have an X17 at the console for my "fancy" unit. And while I have reluctantly surrendered all paper graphs, I do still have an in dash 1240 flasher and do still use it when running anywhere that might hold surprises just outside the channel.

Never warmed up to the side scans. Hurts my neck too much leaning off to one side to read them.

[moguy1973]

Hmmm...I guess I'm confused. I can see pretty much everything that is going on under my kayak with the DSI unit I have on it. I can see a jig going up and down very clearly and any fish that is coming to get it.

Everything I've read up until this thread says that the downscan/structurescan units are much better for jigging/drop shotting right under your boat...guess not...

[dtrs5kprs]

Hmmm...I guess I'm confused. I can see pretty much everything that is going on under my kayak with the DSI unit I have on it. I can see a jig going up and down very clearly and any fish that is coming to get it.

Everything I've read up until this thread says that the downscan/structurescan units are much better for jigging/drop shotting right under your boat...guess not...

Of the guides I know, their answers reflect Bill & Capt Joe's assessment of which unit or mode to use for vertical work. Old school flashers were absolutely the best, if you learned to read them.

[troutgnat]

Thanks to all! For a guy that is just completing a 89' Ranger restoration project this is exactly what I needed to know for when I prepare to upgrade my electronics. That will be next year unfortunately, this year will be paying off this restore project.

[dtrs5kprs]

Thanks to all! For a guy that is just completing a 89' Ranger restoration project this is exactly what I needed to know for when I prepare to upgrade my electronics. That will be next year unfortunately, this year will be paying off this restore project.

That is on my bucket list, as long as it is a 300 series. Still have a thing for those old corners at the transom. Defines bass fishing for me. Share some pics as you go.