Billfo Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 This time of year on TBL, how heavy a clear mono could someone get away with throwing 1/2- 3/4 oz crankbaits ? (or are these too big) OR , would I be better off rigging the crankbait rod with braid ? Thanks for the advice.. Email me Red-Right-Returning is for quitters !
dwiebenga Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 I throw my warts on 10lb fluorocarbon and I use a 6' Med. action Faclon Lowrider. Works great
Guest Brian B. Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 I like 10lb mono for all my cranking, 12lb tops.. I have gone away from braid completely. Especially for cranking, no give, rips hoooks out immediately vs a little give.
Nitroman Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 Best of both worlds, ( FLUOR./MONO. ) YO-ZURI HYBRID. Depending on style of crankbait & cover, MIN. 8lb. MAX. 12lb. Rock View Resort Table Rock Lake Greg Pope, Owner/Operator & Fishing Guide
Billfo Posted October 26, 2013 Author Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks for the replies... I will be hitten it next weekend. Any tips most apprechiated ! Email me Red-Right-Returning is for quitters !
Guest Brian B. Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 Get some lavender shad (I believe that is the color description) Norman Deep Little N crankbaits. There are two models, the basic non-tuned model and a pro model, the pro model is tuned out of the box and has the black or nickel colored hooks vs. The bronze colored hooks on the cheaper model. I won't buy any of the non-pro models again... The pro model may be another $1 per lure, but its worth it. My opinion these are the finest crankbaits on the market- the lavender shad color is good in just about any water color.
abkeenan Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 Thanks for the replies... I will be hitten it next weekend. Any tips most apprechiated ! 10lb InvisX Fluoro. Has a little more give/stretch than Trilene 100% Fluoro and is smaller in diameter so it will get baits a hair deeper.
exiledguide Posted October 26, 2013 Posted October 26, 2013 I have been fishing crank baits on Trilene XL since it became available and in the green color since observation from the back of other fisherman,s boats and saw what they used. I never have really found a Flouro or braid that that I was comfortable with. I still prefer a glass cranking rod medium action,. In Table Rock or any clear lake I would use 8 lbs XL But I would have a second rod which a lot heavier line for throwing into docks or heavy brush. Really though the guy to ask would be the guides who fish Table Rock
Members timr0123 Posted October 26, 2013 Members Posted October 26, 2013 6illfo, I'm no expert but the following is what I've been taught, studied and experimented and these are my conclusions from them. Clear, stained or dirty water - aggressive fish; these fish don't give a crap whether they see the line or not. There either pissed or gorging and will attack anything no matter what its tied on. Your only concern is using the right diameter to achieve the deep you want your crank to be in. Clear to slightly stained - aggressive and non aggressive feeding medium to deep; It's now all about the water clarity and what structure, if any, the fish are relating to. First of all you need to determine at what depth the fish are holding. Second would be if they are looking up, down or straight ahead. Again, diameter will vary with your choice of crank. I will tie on two to three lures that I am relatively sure will dive to the same depth. But I will use three different line diameters. Those three don't vary much. I'm a true blue winder at heart and in being so I have more crankbait combos than most people, 7 to 8 at hand at all times. My typical combo For medium to deep cranks is a Revo winch 5.4 to 1 or a premier 6.4 to 1, or eqailifant Lew's TP1, on either a medium to medium heavy St Croix Mojo or Bass Pro crankster spooled with 10, 12 or 14 lbs test Yozuri or Sufix 100% florocarbon. Remember, your two main concerns are depth and related structure. If fishing alone, I will fire three or four case to a target with one set up and if not bit, I go to the next one and so forth until I can dial them in. Conditions and knowledge will determine which line setup you start with. I like to go with the nominal setup and then go up or down from it. Most of all you must know your baits average running depth and build off of it. Agressive to non aggressive feeding shallow, clear to stained; This is typically were I use the heaviest line I can because the fish will be related to some type of cover. Be it wood, rock, stumps or docks. it's all about the abrasion factor here. You'll be banging against everything you can so be choosey with your line. This is normally the only time I go with mono or hybrid due to the abrasion factor of them. You don't need floor in 1 to 5 feet of water, but you'll still need good line and a stiffer rod than normal to off set the stretch of mono. The main thing with shallow cranking is to constantly check the condition of your line. Nicks are like Karma, neither one forgives. Best advise I can give on shallow cranking is cast, crack, bang, dig, sweep not set, land and check that line. I hope this helps you. If you can't tell my fishing passion is crankbaits and the art of catching, not fishing, with them. Tim R. BTW- my profile photo is a 10 lbs 8 oz Falcon Lake crank bait fish caught at 3:00pm on 3-01-12 chartreuse black back StrikeKing model 5, 17 lbs test Yozuri floor on a Revo Premier 6.4 - 1 and a Bass Pro medium/heavy cranking stick, submerged log in 18 feet of water adjacent to a short point. I probably made 50 cast to the same log before she bit. (The only thing I didn't mention was the pit crew did a hell of a job getting the Mountain Dew #88 setup for the race today) LOL-LOL besides having ADHD when it comes to fishing.
Billfo Posted October 28, 2013 Author Posted October 28, 2013 6illfo, I'm no expert but the following is what I've been taught, studied and experimented and these are my conclusions from them. Clear, stained or dirty water - aggressive fish; these fish don't give a crap whether they see the line or not. There either pissed or gorging and will attack anything no matter what its tied on. Your only concern is using the right diameter to achieve the deep you want your crank to be in. Clear to slightly stained - aggressive and non aggressive feeding medium to deep; It's now all about the water clarity and what structure, if any, the fish are relating to. First of all you need to determine at what depth the fish are holding. Second would be if they are looking up, down or straight ahead. Again, diameter will vary with your choice of crank. I will tie on two to three lures that I am relatively sure will dive to the same depth. But I will use three different line diameters. Those three don't vary much. I'm a true blue winder at heart and in being so I have more crankbait combos than most people, 7 to 8 at hand at all times. My typical combo For medium to deep cranks is a Revo winch 5.4 to 1 or a premier 6.4 to 1, or eqailifant Lew's TP1, on either a medium to medium heavy St Croix Mojo or Bass Pro crankster spooled with 10, 12 or 14 lbs test Yozuri or Sufix 100% florocarbon. Remember, your two main concerns are depth and related structure. If fishing alone, I will fire three or four case to a target with one set up and if not bit, I go to the next one and so forth until I can dial them in. Conditions and knowledge will determine which line setup you start with. I like to go with the nominal setup and then go up or down from it. Most of all you must know your baits average running depth and build off of it. Agressive to non aggressive feeding shallow, clear to stained; This is typically were I use the heaviest line I can because the fish will be related to some type of cover. Be it wood, rock, stumps or docks. it's all about the abrasion factor here. You'll be banging against everything you can so be choosey with your line. This is normally the only time I go with mono or hybrid due to the abrasion factor of them. You don't need floor in 1 to 5 feet of water, but you'll still need good line and a stiffer rod than normal to off set the stretch of mono. The main thing with shallow cranking is to constantly check the condition of your line. Nicks are like Karma, neither one forgives. Best advise I can give on shallow cranking is cast, crack, bang, dig, sweep not set, land and check that line. I hope this helps you. If you can't tell my fishing passion is crankbaits and the art of catching, not fishing, with them. Tim R. BTW- my profile photo is a 10 lbs 8 oz Falcon Lake crank bait fish caught at 3:00pm on 3-01-12 chartreuse black back StrikeKing model 5, 17 lbs test Yozuri floor on a Revo Premier 6.4 - 1 and a Bass Pro medium/heavy cranking stick, submerged log in 18 feet of water adjacent to a short point. I probably made 50 cast to the same log before she bit. (The only thing I didn't mention was the pit crew did a hell of a job getting the Mountain Dew #88 setup for the race today) LOL-LOL besides having ADHD when it comes to fishing. This is awesome advice....thank you very much..... doubt I will remember the details, but I already see the errors of my ways. Email me Red-Right-Returning is for quitters !
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now