Livewell Plumbing Rebuild- 86' Ranger 375V

[Guest]

I may have gotten over my head on this project.
Both aerator pumps have been dead since I bought the boat, both valves stay open all the time.
Not a big deal, since I was catch & release.
The bilge pump crapped out so I replaced it, no problem.
I decided to replace the main livewell pump, but created a leak when I did.
so now my boat leaks. Not good
Today, I backed it down the ramp & unloaded the batteries & removed the battery tray with the boat still on the trailer. (nobody was using the ramp)
That's when I discovered the leak was from the new pump's elbow fitting.
It needed a few wraps of Teflon tape & stopped the leak.

Here's my problem, those valves & water hose lines are original & they're badly dry rotten.
At some point, I run the risk of sinking the boat if they break.
I need to replace all hoses, valves, pumps, switches & cables. (correct me if I'm wrong)

There are so many varieties of switches & valves that I'm not sure what exactly I need to buy.
Do I really need a pump out valve? what's the true reason for having it?

How difficult will it be to replace the hose running to the front livewell? (I want to keep large bait alive up there)
I'm not opposed to converting the front livewell into a cooler, I just don't know how.

If all of it needs to be ripped out & replaced, not a problem.

Any insight will be appreciated.


Before Rebuild (All Original)


After pump & bilge replacement

[fishinwrench]

Welcome to my world. There's no easy way out. It always sucks.

No you don't need a Pump Out, or a recirc unless you are competing in the BassMaster Classic where you'll be trailering 50+ miles to a weigh-in.

When you redo it go with thru-hull pumps and eliminate some hose clamps.

Valves only need to be on the drains.

Oh, and your bilge pump needs to be further back.

[Guest]

thanks,

I'm definitely going to gut the entire deal, but use what parts I've already bought.

Valves & switches are my biggest issue, since I have no experience with them.

I need to saw off most of that threaded part of the pump & attach it directly to the valve.

all that McGyver crap isn't a good idea, something will eventually leak

[Guest]

I found this photo diagram online.

[fishinwrench]

Those valves are confusing until you've dealt with them awhile. Seems simple and self explanatory.... But they're not. Cable position dictates valve direction. You only understand after you've hooked about 4 of them up backwards.

[fishinwrench]

I found this photo diagram online.

pump_install.jpg

I hate it. Too many connections. That's ridiculous. Reminds me of a Triton. Stupid!

[Guest]

What would the local shop charge me to rebuild it all?

Or could I tackle it piece by piece, hose by hose?

[fishinwrench]

This one would charge about 350-400 P&L

cuz I'm cranky and don't wanna do it. You can prolly get it done for 200 though somewhere.

[Guest]

In that case, I'm over my head on this deal.

Right now, the aerator pump & bilge are working & brand new. Nothing leaks today.

So, Im going to let it ride until later this year.

Its time to go catch some fish for a change.

The front livewell needs to become a cooler.

[fishinwrench]

The pump/valve option is a bad design, it allows water to stay trapped in that conglomerate of bullshit, which freezes in the winter and breaks stuff.

Thru-hull pumps are the way to go.

Keep it simple....A thru-hull pump going straight to the spray bar(s).

An open overflow.

And a valve on the drain.