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Posted
8 minutes ago, 176champion said:

I bough a WW and the bill or lip is painted.

Yes. I believe that is a Rapala (fat raps, etc with the chartreuse bill, usually clear colored lexan) thing and wiggle warts have been a staple for the northern toothy critter hunting trollers just as much as they have been for the Ozark impoundment guys.

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQi5dMUzFDurVlDfihAkmN

Posted

I have one that the bill is painted dark brown...not transparent..

I know everything about nothing and know nothing about everything!

Bruce Philips

Posted
11 hours ago, TrophyFishR said:

I'm getting one of these for Christmas. No more sinus/allergy infections 

image.jpg

that is nice!

I just have the white little cup over my nose, an open window, and a big fan pointed out of said window lol!!

Posted
11 hours ago, TrophyFishR said:

I'm getting one of these for Christmas. No more sinus/allergy infections 

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Trophy,

A couple of things about that respirator. It's a good one. But when you are not using it make sure you keep it sealed up. 3M used to tell everyone that the cartridges were good for about 40 hours of exposure, whether you were painting or not. So if you keep them sealed up between uses it extends the life of the cartridge.

The other thing is that you can save a lot of money if you don't have to have the full face version. Part number 7192 uses the same cartridges and covers your mouth and nose, and you should be able to pick one up from your local O'Reilly's for $30 or less. The only difference is that it doesn't cover your face and eyes. Safety goggles or glasses will protect your eyes from any splashes or spills that occur.

But if you want the full face then by all means get it. They are nice.

 

 

Posted

FlySmallie,

I appreciate the advice on those cartridges. I didnt know they had a short life span. That explains why I keep getting allergy problems. Ive been using the standard 3M mask for several years & replaced the cartridges every 6 months. 

The full mask stems from spraying plasti dip on my lures. I keep getting the airborne plasti dip particles in my eyes & causing problems. 

Posted

I understand the allergy problems. I used to paint on a fleet of vans as a side job and would feel miserable for a couple of days every time I painted. I still automotive paints but don't even have to wear a respirator in the garage anymore when painting lures. It's all about air flow. You need a bunch of it. But you also have to be careful where you are funneling so you don't overspray the wife's new car. Doesn't have to be fancy. Mine always consist of a fan, a cardboard box and some cheap A/C filters.

You guys are driving me crazy with this stuff. I'm headed over to predator baits to make a purchase. Any recommendations on other baits?

 

 

Posted
20 hours ago, TrophyFishR said:

what size are the split rings on those jerks? they look massive. Did you try heavier gauge hooks or even adding a belly hook swivel to add weight? It looks like the learning curve might be kinda steep on those suspenders.

trebles i use are death traps, or gammy round bent size 4 or 6, usually a combo of 4s and 6s will do the trick.  Im not sure the split ring size.  It does take some effort, A small scale helps tremendously.  Also...Im a paint formulator and work in a lab with automotive 2k polyurethanes, which are less dense usually.  Especially the clear that I use because I have it modified with rubber/wax and silicone to enhance deflection off of structure....Yes, i know..i put way too much thought into fishing....These variables all mean that i ended up having to put larger split rings on to get them to suspend right.  I guess i could have used lead strips or something, but it never crossed my mind at the time. 

 

A word to those who do this regularly.....Painting lures needs to be done in a VERY well ventilated area.  Yes a respirator will help as long as there is sufficient oxygen...but honestly it needs to be done in a booth with very good draw.  The older fellas that I work with, that have been spraying paint for 40 years all hack and cough and the sinuses/allergies are all mucked up.  Breathing in organic solvent vapors all the time for years is dangerous...for obvious reasons.  

Posted
15 minutes ago, mjk86 said:

A word to those who do this regularly.....Painting lures needs to be done in a VERY well ventilated area.  Yes a respirator will help as long as there is sufficient oxygen...but honestly it needs to be done in a booth with very good draw.  The older fellas that I work with, that have been spraying paint for 40 years all hack and cough and the sinuses/allergies are all mucked up.  Breathing in organic solvent vapors all the time for years is dangerous...for obvious reasons.  

 

The other thing you have to worry about is exposure to your skin. You can and will absorb the compounds through your skin. You rarely see a painter anymore that isn't covered from head to toe. Used to be common for these painters to be exposed all day and then wash their hands with some thinner. Your skin absorbs it and it makes its way into your bloodstream. But for the sizes of items we are talking about it's very easy to create a small booth to paint your baits in safely.

 

 

Posted

Im painting in a modified garage near the door. The previous owner built a partition wall & door in the garge about where the motor used to hang. So, that larger part of the 2 dcar garage is a play room for my son. Its totally sealed off. However, my little 10ft strip of the 2 car garage isnt bad. I can raise the garage door to let out all the paint fumes. Do yall think thats sufficient? Or do I need a booth?

Keep in mind, I only paint during the winter & have to warm that area with a 30k btu wall mount propane heater.

Posted

I don't think you need a booth but a fan pushing air out the door would be best. I think most of us have the same issue with our garages. It's either too hot to do anything or it's too cold. When It's just right we are out doing other things.

 

 

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