My new toy "Legend SS"

[BassMaster#1]

 

22 hours ago, DADAKOTA said:

Great looking rig.  Only thing I'd suggest is to install a foot pedal tray and drop the pedal in.  You'll have more balance while on the trolling motor and your back won't be killing ya.  Lots of fun to be had with that sled.

Yeah, already called cow town about that. They said about $200 -$250 

[moguy1973]

9 hours ago, BassMaster#1 said:

 

Yeah, already called cow town about that. They said about $200 -$250 

From what I've seen the recesses themselves are around $100.  I bet they can't do it for $200.  Do it yourself wuss.

[Al Agnew]

A bunch of elaborations on what everybody else has said....

1.  In my opinion, if you look at the river gauge for the river near Sullivan (the gauge is actually at Sappington Bridge), it will tell you the flow more or less between Onondaga and Moselle.  If it's below 500 cfs, you ARE going to encounter tricky spots all up and down that whole stretch of river.  Split channels will be very skinny at that level, and rocky riffles will require very precise running.  You pretty much have to know the line to run in a few riffles.  Just thinking of bad spots, I can remember a rocky riffle about 2 miles below Onondaga, a couple of split channels between Onondaga and Campbell Bridge, a couple of pretty tricky log-lined runs between Blue Springs Creek and Meramec Park, the rocky riffle right below Sand Ford will require VERY precise line running, the riffle just above Roaring Spring is full of rocks and at low water levels doesn't have a perfect line, period---it's gotten a number of boats over the years.  There are really shallow flats downstream from it.  The island a mile or so above Redhorse is pretty dangerous at low levels, and changes with every flood on which side to run--one side is log-jammed, the other side is rocky.  And as Parkerhollow said, there are tricky spots between Riverround and Moselle.  Even downstream from Moselle, there are sneaky logs in some of the riffles.  Guys run everything at 500 cfs, but they generally know the river very well.  Not trying to discourage you, but I've found that it's easy for guys who DO know the river well to think running it is easy when it isn't for the person who doesn't know it well.  If the gauge reads over 1000 cfs just about everything is easy.  In between those two readings, some places are tricky, some are a piece of cake.

2.  Parkerhollow's idea to run progressively shallower along a gravel bar is a good one.  I got the same confidence in mine when I first got it by happening upon a slick log that was just under the surface, in some places about 4 inches under, in others a little less.  I ran it over the 4 inch depth without hitting, and figured that was good enough.  I've since learned a lot more about what mine is capable of, and I'll probably tick the gravel at anything under 4 inches.

3.  Ticking gravel is okay, it isn't going to hurt anything.  But rocks are another matter.  If a riffle has rocks in it that are bigger than softballs, it will do some damage hitting them, and if they are bigger than basketballs they don't move a bit when the boat hits, which means major dents in the bottom and possible motor damage.  All riffles aren't created equal.  

4.  I don't like the idea of recessed foot pedals.  I much prefer using a butt seat to lean on while running the motor.  Here's why...when you're fishing in strong current, the only way to do it is to point the boat upstream and use the trolling motor to hold it in place or slow it and guide it as it drifts downstream as you fish.  So to be comfortable, you're going to have your body turned toward the bank you're fishing.  Which means some serious contortions to actually reach and run the foot pedal with your body turned away from it (or even toward it).  Instead, I keep the foot pedal loose on the deck, and when I'm turned to the side in that situation, I simply move the pedal to where it's directly under my foot just like it is when I'm facing forward.  I'm still leaning on the butt seat, which keeps my balance far better than even having a recessed pedal does.  It's far less tiring to use the butt seat than to just stand unsupported and run the trolling motor all day.

5.  You can run the trolling motor IF NECESSARY anywhere the boat will drift, by grabbing the pull rope and lifting it partially out of the water.  It's noisy and splashy and you can't do it and fish at the same time, but it will get you through most riffles, and can be instantly re-deployed as soon as you reach water that's deep enough to run it at full deployment.  Of course, only you can be the judge of what's runnable with the trolling motor and what you'll need to run under power.  You don't want to let the boat slide up onto a log in heavy water...even big boats will flip in some situations.

6.  Here's a trick I figured out for using the trolling motor...on my motor (Minnkota Maxxum), pushing the front of the pedal down turns the shaft counterclockwise, and pushing it down all the way turns the shaft all the way to where the motor will be pushing straight backwards--the prop is at the 12 o'clock position.  Pushing down on the back of the pedal all the way does the same thing, prop at 12 o'clock.  But if you're drifting down the river in fairly gentle current and want the boat to be facing downstream, and be able to slow the drift and direct it, anytime you want the trolling motor to push the front end of the boat one way a bit, and then push it the other way, you have to go from having the front of your pedal pushed all the way down to the back of the pedal pushed nearly all the way down to do so.  So what I did was loosen the clamp holding the shaft, and turn the shaft in the housing until having either the front or the back of the pedal depressed all the way makes the prop point to about the 10 o'clock position, then re-tighten.  Now, when I want to control and slow a drift while facing downstream, I push the front of the pedal down but not all the way down, and the prop is pointing at about 12 o'clock.  But if I need to move the front end of the boat to the right, I just push the front of the pedal down farther, and if I want it to go to the left, I push the back end of the pedal a bit.  it doesn't affect normal running, because you quickly get used to the new position.

[Parkerhollow]

Excellent point on the gauge readings Al.  A little embarrassed I forgot to mention that.

[BassMaster#1]

Had a great experience today in the boat, ended up running 32.6 miles and learned a lot about it, not by choice.  Tried to put in at route 66 in eureka, but the park didn't open till 7 and it was 6:30 so we ended up going to Allenton and running up to within a mile of Catawissa Conservation Area, 11.4 miles.  When we got right before Pacific Palisades that was where I got to test the boat.  The river split and we went right instead of Left.  The small stream ended up joining back up but I had some maneuvering to do and ended up running in about 3" of water, My butt was puckering, but we made it.  It is truley amazing how low of water these boats will run and how they glide across the water.  Ended up running back to the Allenton exit, then decided to run down to route 66 to see the water and run back.  Tried to fish, but don't really like fishing for smallmouth unless i'm above Chouteau Claim access. 

Things I learned:

• I think I would love a recessed trolling motor.  I have a 70lb thrust and it can really wipe you around
• Make sure you put the plug in the two live wells.  We could have mabey been a 100lbs or so lighter if I would have put the plug in those.  I discovered this when I got out of the water and all the water was draining
• You don't need to keep the gas hammered once on Plain and can still maneuver around
• Loading a boat on a trailer in the river is a PAIN!
• My boat only seemed to do 32 going down river with a 300lb buddy.  The evenrude motor says 90, but maybe it is more like a 65.  What is typical speed for a boat/motor like this?
• I love this boat. Best around boat for the guy who likes to fish river and Lakes
• Love the tips, please provide more...I have a lot to learn

 

[DADAKOTA]

If my livewell is not plugged it will drain as I run.  So you lose all the weight when on plane.  

[Seth]

Were you using GPS to check your downstream speed? Don't ever go by what that speedo/pitot thing says if it actually works. I'm not sure why they bother putting those pieces of junk on these boats. I've yet to see one that actually worked like it was supposed to. I'd rather have that slot used for a small round radio unit.

The livewells will drain like Dadakota mentioned if you leave the plugs out. If I'm fishing and plan on putting fish in the livewell at some point, I just leave it unplugged so that there is fresh water for the first fish to go into. I'll plug it and turn the livewell pump to auto so it runs every few minutes and forget about it.

One tip on loading a boat in current is to angle the boat trailer down stream so you can drive in to the current while loading. It makes it a lot easier versus trying to time it just right and load it with the trailer perpendicular to the current, especially if you're not used to a jet. It seems like common sense to me, but I never see anybody else doing it.

[BassMaster#1]

On 6/20/2016 at 7:44 AM, Seth said:

Were you using GPS to check your downstream speed? Don't ever go by what that speedo/pitot thing says if it actually works. I'm not sure why they bother putting those pieces of junk on these boats. I've yet to see one that actually worked like it was supposed to. I'd rather have that slot used for a small round radio unit.

The livewells will drain like Dadakota mentioned if you leave the plugs out. If I'm fishing and plan on putting fish in the livewell at some point, I just leave it unplugged so that there is fresh water for the first fish to go into. I'll plug it and turn the livewell pump to auto so it runs every few minutes and forget about it.

One tip on loading a boat in current is to angle the boat trailer down stream so you can drive in to the current while loading. It makes it a lot easier versus trying to time it just right and load it with the trailer perpendicular to the current, especially if you're not used to a jet. It seems like common sense to me, but I never see anybody else doing it.

Yeah, I thought about this after we loaded. Told my buddy that's was it was a bit difficult to load. We were using phone and it was saying 32. Just have to try again as I really though I would have hit 35. River is getting pretty low, but thinking about heading out Friday evening for a bit.  Might check mosel ramp and see how low the section there is

[Parkerhollow]

Just curious, have you GPS'd the speed on the boat yet and had any luck getting above 32 MPH yet?  

[moguy1973]

He said he phone GPS'ed it on Kincaid on Friday and could only get 32mph with a boat full of family.