fishinwrench

Very localized little downpour. The Niangua guage hasn't budged. 😐

It's even better than that ! At 662 the whole lake goes No Wake. Bass in the grass, and the Whites/hybrids completely loose their mind.

Cool! I hope she goes 665 😊

Dang! 6"? Only 2" here. Glad to have the dust settled.

Unless you want to carry multiple pair of shades and change throughout the day then Amber lenses are the best choice. I've had several "quality" pairs of sunglasses in my time but none of them impressed me enough to keep buying them. So I have a dozen pairs of Flying Fisherman, Strike King, Ozark Trail, ect. and I do fine with them. When they get scratched up I grab another pair and use the old ones for eye protection while mowing and weedeating.

Got my butt whooped once by a guy with a bone colored Rebel crawdad crankbait. I was supposed to be showing him how to catch Smallies, but instead he schooled ME.

I had what sounds like the exact same issue with a Lowrance x5. They sent me a new unit (and yeah I had to give them money up front), and when I plugged in the new unit it booted up right away but then started acting stupid after about 5 minutes. I swapped out the power/transducer harness and poof....worked again for about 5 minutes then went haywire. Even though everything tested good at the fuse panel I bypassed it and wired straight to the battery.... Problem solved for good. Has worked flawlessly ever since. There was never anything wrong with the original unit so I understand why they wanted money to cover the replacement unit.

'97 Stratos 201/Evinrude Vindicator 225, very clean and low hours for its age. Always serviced by yours truly. I have records of its service history. $7550.00 firm.

I'm probably asking for too much durability out of a plastic sticker. During the winter drawdown I build lots of rock piles, then during the high water season I smack those rock piles with a RedEye shad. It's a solid technique that puts alot of keepers in the boat for me, but the best color pattern is the chrome based ones....and that finish doesn't hold up very long at all when playing that game. I have tried coating them in epoxy and everything else I can think of but nothing holds up worth a crap.

Everybody is a Crank Wrap rep/pro-staffer. Makes me wonder who they are selling them to if everyone who owns a fishing pole is only paying shipping. Anyway, about these things...... I'm a big RedEye Shad fanatic, and I have asked probably 10 guys if they offer chrome(ish) crank Wraps for the 1/2oz. RedEye Shad and if so how well they hold up? Any better than the original finish? Because I can knock all the original chrome-sexiness off in about 30 minutes. I have a 1/2 full coffee can (25+) of RedEye shad baits with no chrome left on them, and it would be great if I could put them back into service. None of these Pro CrankWrap guys will answer, they just act like they didn't hear the question. Can anyone here offer any input on that?

As a bit of a Devil advocate post it might be worthy to mention that when I wear my PFD and kill switch attached to it I tend to HAULASS moreso than when I don't. I've noticed the same thing when riding my mountain bike. Everytime I put on that goofy helmet....this kinda stuff happens

Honestly I think his best bet would be to put the word out on this forum. http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/forumdisplay.php?966-Outboard-Motors-Forum And on the Evinrude, Mercury, and Yamaha tech Facebook groups. Some very dedicated guys on there.

You mean "take a vacation"? Heck yeah! If you're looking for folks that will pay someone to babysit them though I think you picked the wrong forum. 😋

Too bad it can't be a Winter gig. Out of curiosity what is Mr.Johnson prepared to pay? Always have offers to do Winters in FL, LA, or TX for some pretty good 💰 but it isn't enough to pull me away from my family and my big yeller dawg 😢

I'd declare war on Hawks around here if I could get away with it. I bet there are no less than 15 patrolling this square 1/4 mile. Squirrels and Rabbits don't have a chance.

You said it, not me. 😂

Ya know you can buy a whole roll of that elastic band at WM for a buck-forty. A drop of super glue and you're good to go. Been doing it for years. 😎

Calm down there, Rhonda! I wasn't being snarky about your toys, I was just expressing my amazement at the pic quality that the newer smartphones are capable of. I mean I openly admitted that I lack the eyes for truly good photography, but seriously how much more detail would anyone need of a Zebra mussel, or my germ infested hand? Look at that life-line will ya! I bet I live to be 116 at least! Cigarettes and carb cleaner be dammed.

Battery leads clean and tight? If so then it's most likely the main harness plug isn't making good contact on the yellow/blk. pin. Or it could be moisture in the key switch. I would have said the master fuse link might be dirty/corroded..... but if the tilt/trim works then that is ok. The main harness plug looks like this, and they are a common source of intermittent problems Could also be a bad solenoid. Do you have a voltmeter, or even a test light handy?

Oh boy it's getting deep in here 😅 Appreciate the kind words but y'all are my homies, and I enjoy helping ya when I can. Don't feel obligated to drive further and pay ME when others are closer. I'm not on here to pimp my business, I'm here cuz y'all like to fish as much as I do and I enjoy cutting up with ya.

Since I carry my phone everywhere I go I feel it's rediculous to carry a separate camera. I probably don't have an eye for truly good photos, but IMO there's nothing wrong with most smart phone pics, they actually amaze me.

Would definitely have to be the wrong bolt if so, because the correct one has a shoulder with no threads. The bolt threads into and through the THREADED steering arm, it doesn't just simply slide through it.

The weak connection burnt up at less amperage than what the breaker was designed for, so therefore it burnt that area up first. The sizzling he heard was probably the adhesive on the tape being boiled by the molten copper. A bad connection is basically a fuse....that is uncontained. The only difference is that a fuse is sealed off so that oxygen can't fuel a fire. It burns in two and beings as there is no oxygen there the circuit is broken safely. A BREAKER has a heat sensitive spring that breaks the circuit when it gets to a pre-determined temperature far less than the melting point of the wiring. Once it cools back off it can be reset, or if so designed it will reset itself. The entire circuit needs to be in good condition though for the fuse/breaker to effectively protect the circuit. Poorly crimped connectors and dirty plug terminals kill it.

Actually I would kinda like to see pics of the steering arm area of the outboard, just out of curiosity..... because technically the bolt can't "vibrate out" without hitting the lower cowling. If the lower cowling isn't busted (or gouged out) in that area then that means someone used the wrong bolt. The lower cowling has to be removed when the steering arm bolt is installed, otherwise it simply won't fit.

It didn't short to ground or overload the circuit then, it simply got hot because of a poor connection at the plug splice. Eventually it would have melted into a short and tripped the breaker. Hopefully before anything caught on fire.