fishinwrench

Backend of Soap cr. The RedEye has a pause and fall action that the others I've tried don't have. If the fish are chasing it down and crushing it then it probably doesn't matter, but when you're smacking logs then letting it fall for second I think (hell I know) it matters.

It's a 💯 mph job made by Stearns. I've had it for 20 years or so. Bought from Able Marine back when they were still in business.

I think it would be hard to say that you like it alot until it had been used for what it's designed for. I have some waders that I "like alot" because they are comfortable and look cool, but I can't wear them fishing unless it's a short trip in calm water because they seep in 3 spots and will soak me if I am in the water more than a couple hours. I HATE my PFD but I know the uncomfortable bastage will keep my head above water if I'm unconcious, and won't get ripped off if I hit the water at high speed.

Yeah, some corners are being cut somewhere. Whether it's somewhere that matters....ya never know. My thoughts have been that they are probably fine for pontoon applications, but I'm not ready to slap one on a bassboat .....and stand behind it. Having to box up and ship a lower unit back for a warranty replacement is a PIA, and then you know they'll just say that you hit something, or used "incorrect lube". I ain't got time for fighting about that crap

Our Wal-Mart's (we have 3 of them around the lake) do not carry them in .22, only .177 or I would have already grabbed one. Yours might, you'll have to check. PA has them marked at 120.00 still, but way better deals are out there. https://www.pyramydair.com

Yeah I know, and Chrome Sexy is one of my favorite colors. I have a box full of beat and battered ones hopefully awaiting a crank wrap that hasn't been offered yet....but surely will soon. I thought about trying some chrome duct tape. The red ones I just touch-up with an Extreme Sharpie and they keep on catching. The 2-Tap version has been a dud for me. I think they are too heavy and don't have the same action. They just don't feel the same, takes a harder/faster pull to make them "thump", and since I fish them in fairly shallow water I just don't like that. So if by chance you like the 2-Taps I have a few I'll trade you for originals.

Word on the street is that the Benjamin Prowler .22 being dumped for under $100 right now is a real fine rifle. Comes with a scope that just needs to be tossed in the trash, but the rifle is supposedly very accurate and a hard hitter. I may snatch one up just for kicks.

The versatility of that RedEye Shad continues to amaze me. I have gotten to where I never put it away. If they ever quit making it I'll have a total meltdown.

No kidding. I would have never figured all that stuff out on my own. One evening of surfing and I got like a master's degree in this crap.

I got out for a quickie before lunch and found a few shallow in some dirty 48° water.

You gotta get a steel receiver, and seal up the top of the transfer port with a tiny 0-ring (I actually got the O-ring from the valve of a Scripto cigarette lighter) Do those mods alone and you'll see that 1322 come to life. The hinge pin (roll pin) needs to be flared on both ends or it will walk out on ya.....Or you can order a solid 3/16" stainless pin for 8.00 If you just hate it and don't care to mess with it I'll buy it from ya. I freakin' love this thing. The 2240 was just weak. Weak to the point that I don't think anything could have made me like it. CO2 just sucks! That thing was loud as hell but wouldn't even penetrate thick cardboard. Totally worthless for anything except maybe indoor paper punching. A longer barrel (much longer) might have helped but if I had wanted another rifle I wouldn't have ordered a pistol.

I don't think I went on a rant about it here, but that high dollar Crosman 2240 (KT whatever) that I ordered from Crosman's custom shop turned out to be a POS and I sent it back. Took the money and ordered this 1322 and all the goodies to hotrod it, from PA and did it myself. I did everything except the flat-top piston and flat nosed valve, because I have no desire to stand here and pump that thing 30-50 times. Very happy with it. It has plenty of power out to 20-25 yards....which is further than I ever plan on shooting it. And if you can hold it steady it is a genuine tack driver.

Originally (with the old Black Max, and others) they were designed that way so that if fuel backed up into the oil reservoir and diluted the oil, the fuel would dissolve the adhesive and set the alarm off. So Merc's adhesive idea actually did have a purpose.....back in the day. Fuel can't get there in a Optimax, but for some reason (sense of humor?) they kept on with the adhesive.

Beautiful ! Nice work.

After you pop your tag under, if you'll take something like a pen barrel and rub it across the wraps it will smooth everything out and fill in any tiny gaps. Then quickly and lightly brush over the wraps with the flame of a cig lighter to singe any fuzz away. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the blank 1/32 of an inch behind the edge of the wrap, square the edge of the wraps up with a thumbnail if it is not square, apply your epoxy, then peel off the tape while the epoxy is still wet. It will smooth out perfectly in about 5 minutes. I never had a rotisserie so I just give it a 1/4 turn every 5 minutes for the first hour, then a half turn every 15-20 minutes for the next couple hours after that. An occasional 1/2 turn for the remaining 24 hours, if you can stay awake that long, doesn't hurt.

As far as I know, getting noisy in a campground isn't a jailable offense. Getting kicked out is about as severe as the punishment gets unless someone files assault charges.

Looks like about 2650.00 after shipping and tax. Plus about 250.00 for a water pump, lube, and installation. SEI lists one for 900.00 It doesn't sound like I can rebuild that one for much less, but I'd have to look it over to be sure.

Sounds like they are making memories.

I pulled the bearing carrier on one to inspect the gears and thrust bearings before filling it with lube, they don't use factory gears (they are either GLM or some other aftermarket gear sets) and the gears were still coated with cosmoline or some other kind of rust inhibitor. Seals are put in with what looks like weatherstrip adhesive (which is fine I guess). I was taught to clean that rust inhibitor stuff off before installing gears.... but I don't know that leaving it on would cause any problems. Shifting by hand doesn't feel as smooth as the ones I rebuild myself but other than that they seem fine. I would definitely recommend taking it easy on it for the first couple hours, then change the gear lube.

Yes, and it only takes about 30 minutes to swap it out and purge the O/I system. This is assuming that it is indeed the problem. They'll have to troubleshoot it to be sure.

I have installed several, but I made the customer buy them and have them shipped to me so I didn't have to fight over return/replacement if there was an issue. As far as I know there haven't been any problems. All but one was on low use pontoon applications though.

Oh... Ding-ding-ding ! I need a good transmission guy. Preferably one with a boat that likes the barter system.

The fact that you just said carburetor indicates that you should go no further with your troubleshooting. Take it to a good tech. Odds are the engine mounted oil tank will need to be replaced. There's a sensor built into it that is prone to fail about every 3-5 years. The adhesive used to hold a washer to the float deteriorates, the washer falls down and triggers the low oil warning system. Mercury thinks this is funny so they do nothing to better attach the magnetic washer to the float. This has been going on for decades. A .03 cent tie strap would stop it from happening, but Merc would rather keep selling oil reservoirs.

Epoxy is hard to work with in a cool dry environment. The best cures happen in warm humid weather. It actually needs moisture from the air to set up, and the more the better (up to a point I'm sure).

The important part of a cork ring is the inner circle. You can fill all the other voids with a paste made from cork dust and wood glue. Use some 60 grit paper or a rasp to make your dust so that it isn't too fine.