fishinwrench

Flytyer57, I've seen Musky caught, just never caught one myself. I was just saying, since Clark is jonesin' for some hammer-handle sport he's probably better off targeting Gar than Musky while he's stuck here in Missouri. I hooked into one recently on the fly and I can't imagine that a Musky could be much better sport as far as fighting ability goes. If they had colorful spots and stripes they'd probably be more sought after. LOL Plus, I keep hearing that Gar backstrap is delicious, so the next one I catch I'm gonna try it.

To those who have caught both, how would you rate (compare) the fight between a Muskie and a Gar ? Do Musky get air ?

No flyfish Musky Pomme too deep Musky too few cast arm off never get bite

Wow,that's profound. I guess the timing of my boycott was favorable.

Nice one J.

That fish....either gulped a belly full of water during the battle, or it needs to poop, soon !

I kinda miss Bennett, but I'm sticking to my guns and have sworn it off. Plenty of other places (free of surveillance) to get my fix.

I always did, but just enough to test the bite on a given day, and to make sure I was instructing them properly. It always seemed to improve the confidence (and concentration) of the people I was guiding if they could see a few fish caught. I never once had anyone complain, but then again I always left the best water for them.

Beautiful !

We love dogs around here. Are you a Shephard or a dobie ?

And he does have "river karma", in spades. If you even slow down to let your partner land a fish he'll hole-jump ya...

What's with this "half a plum" reference ? Who eats plums ?

Jeff, Since you said that swapping plugs out made it worse I'm going to assume that you didn't "index" the plugs". The spark plugs have to be tightened in such a way that the open end of the plug gaps are in line with the injectors on all the cylinders. To do that you need to mark the insulator of each plug on the side that the electrode is on, then make sure it is positioned opposite of the injector when it tightens up (sometimes you have to swap them around to get them all to land right). Now that I've said that I'll also tell ya that the spark plugs are not likely to be the cause of your rough idling problem. Draw a fuel sample into a glass jar (from the vapor seperator) and see if there's any water in the fuel. If not then you're gonna have to dig up some cash and take it to a tech. "Reasonable" is still 80-90 per hour, and don't let a lawn mower mechanic tinker with your Opti. LOL You didn't say where you are located, but since you posted in the Stockton forum I'm guessing you are in the Springfield area ?

Pollen contributes to algae blooms in the early Spring.

I'm curious about this, have you actually knifed one and seen mussels in his belly ? The reason I ask is because I clean them off boats and engines all the time...and they attach REALLY WELL. Given that, and their shape (small and tent-like) it seems that fish lips would be a very inefficient tool for plucking Zebras. I usually can't get them with just my fingers unless I can get a fingernail under one edge of him, and pry him loose.

Great! now I'll never get that song out of my head. From now on you shall be known as Lightfoot denjac

They still haven't found either of them ? The news seems to be a bit "hush" about this. Was the guy in some kind of legal trouble or something ?

I read a report that MDC put out, they think Drum may be the savior in the Zebra mussel issue. Personally I can't fathom how the Drum could digest them fast enough to make a difference....but what do I know, I'm not a "biologist".

The end result is the same on both faux furled, and true furled leaders. The compound seamless taper of a true furled leader doesn't have any noticable advantage over a faux furled leader in the way they roll over. Both designs do a fabulous job, of that. The downside, for either design, is that the body of the leader rolls as tension is put on it. To understand what I'm talking about just watch the knot, or stick a small tag of tape to the tippet end and begin to put tension on the leader....you'll see the knot (or the tape) begin to spin. The more tension you apply....the more it spins. This causes three main problems that can cause you headaches and outweight the awesome way that they turn over on a cast. #1. Twisted tippet breaks easier. #2. If you get snagged and have to break off, the immediate recoil of the leader when the tippet breaks, will cause the whole leader to ball up into a big mess, more times than not. #3. Heavily weighted flys (like clousers, for example) will spin, or at the least they will roll over on their sides or upside down when stripped or worked against a fast current. I know how awesome furled leaders cast compared to standard tapered mono leaders, but in my opinion the last thing you want to be using when the fish of a lifetime is hooked, is a furled leader. I guess it depends on which is most important to you... catching fish...or looking good trying. LOL

I was having problems like that (not on this site, but on a tech forum). I tried everything I could think of, but what fixed the issue was disabling "windows cardspace". Here's how you do it. Start / Run / type: services.msc / Enter / locate: "windows cardspace" / double click it / select "disable" / apply / close all open windows / restart / It fixed my problem on that site, and also made accuweather load more reliably (before that, clicking Accuweather was a crapshoot. but now it loads right away, everytime.)

Yep, I got my butt handed to me a couple days ago in my home creek (beautiful day, 59-60 deg. water). I blamed it on my 8 month old Lab (whom I don't quite have a handle on yet) for crashing through some spots I wanted to fish, but something just wasn't right, I could "feel it". Very few baitfish visable, and a dying algae bloom along the bottom. Next trip will be "the one", I just know it.

Is that a shadow on the skeg, or do we have a leaking propshaft seal on that Yammie ?

When you buy a "new" Marine battery in February or March you have to check the manufactured date to be sure your not getting one that has set on the shelf all Winter. The "lead-acid battery tax" that the state imposed awhile back has caused some battery vendors to be very frugal (and sneaky) when it comes time to rotate out dated inventory. If you don't own a load tester, You can load test your cranking battery using a digital voltmeter (or even the voltmeter on your dash, if your boat has one). Just pull your kill switch so the engine will not start, and crank the engine for 10 seconds while watching the voltage drop. If battery voltage falls below 10v during the 10 seconds of cranking, it failed the test. For trolling motor batterys you have to run in 12v mode with a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals, and test them one at a time. Operate the TM on high 12v (in the water) with the boat tied to a dock so it can't move, while watching the battery voltage drop. Same deal, you are checking for a voltage drop to 10 volts or less in 10 seconds. When your battery charger tells you that the battery is at full capacity, that does not indicate that the battery is fine. That simply indicates that the battery has reached its individual charge capacity. A totally wasted battery will show "fully charged" (on a charger), simply because it is resisting the amperage being poured into it. Kind of like the way a dry crusty sponge resists soaking up a splash of water.

Constant variation of the throttle position is hard on an outboard, and it makes navigating rough water more difficult, and at times dangerous. Waves always have a pattern to them, so the key to safely and efficiently crossing rough water is selecting the best RPM range and trim position for the conditions, and then simply maintaing your course. When you are bouncing up and down in the boat it is difficult to keep your foot steady enough to maintain a constant RPM. Sudden and constant increases and decreases in throttle postion can totally screw you up in really rough water. Also, in extreme situations any change in throttle position also needs to be accompanied by a trim adjustment to minimize cavitation. Nobody can keep trim position in check when throttle position is constantly changing. Hotfoots are to blame for more blown powerheads and swamped boats, than just about anything else I know. Throttle cable life is also reduced, tenfold. Hey, you asked If steering wheel torque is your main concern, check out a Teleflex NFB (no feedback) rotary cable system.