fishinwrench

They've been there for more than 50 years at least. As far north as Monroe county for sure. Do you think they'd just pass on that bountiful muskrat fest up there?

Truman? Seldom hear of any, but they should be there since allegedly they were native to the Osage river before it was impounded.

We nursed a juvenile Cardinal back to health last week. He (she?) was under a boat with a jacked up wing and hopped along following me when I moved the boat.... so I couldn't just stomp on its head. Looked like he either got clipped by a car or something had ahold of him for a bit. I plucked a couple of busted feathers from his wing and we kept him in the shop overnight. The next day he made a couple of failed attempts then finally got it right and away he went. And thank Dog, because he pooped on everything I own out there. How can something with a stomach the size of a raisin produce 4 lbs worth of birdshit in a single evening ?

Good job !

I've seen a few very curvy head turners. Somebody told me they don't shave their legs though, so I'm like Hmmm...... that's a tough one.

If you think bass are stupid then you should look at this dog of mine. I mean, he just ate a push-pin for Christ sake ! "Hey ya idiot, put that down!" Crunch, Crunch, Gulp. 😒

It was a great flippin', spinnerbaiting, and topwater bass lake during its first 10 years. I thought it was going to be among the best bass lakes in the world....then something happened. I think the bottom silted over heavily and made for poor habitat. You can hop out near a rocky gravelly bank and sink knee deep in mucky goo. The places where a bass can fan out a clean place to nest are few and far between. Find a few of THOSE areas and you might do ok.

Certain ponds and city lakes in my home town had bullheads in them. The rivers and creeks never did. I always wondered where bullheads came from and who the heck would purposely stock them. If we were catfishing a new pond/lake and caught a bullhead we would never catfish it again. We wanted channels/ flatheads, and if bullheads were in there it seemed like catfishing was pretty much a waste of time.

The wires themselves probably aren't shorted to ground but it's quite likely (and I'm thinking highly probable) that the charge coils (that the yellow wires are connected to) are becoming shorted to ground once the stator begins to heat up a bit. The insulation on the internal coil windings is nothing but a very thin coating of reasonably heat resistant dip (about the thickness of a coat of spray paint). This is done so that the stator windings can disapate heat and cool down as quickly as possible. A tiny speck of dirt or microscopic sliver of conductive material in that dip during the manufacture of the stator could be the cause of all this BS. In my mind, if everything Ranger520vx has said about his troubleshooting tests is accurate....and I have no reason to believe it isn't...then it just has to be a partially shorted stator winding. I once upon a time had a bad (cracked) flywheel magnet that caused somewhat similar readings, but the fact that this one runs fine with charging system wires disconnected rules that out.

Everything about the Etec is proven pretty much rock solid. Not so much by any high tech new engineering but by actual results over time and use. The best proven bearing placement, ring gap, cylinder to piston clearance, block material, lubrication points, seals, solenoids/relays, and starter. The best, longest lasting water pump, charging coils and regulators. Nearly each and every component on those engines are chosen or copied from the ones that over many years have proven to be the most die hard, longest lasting components that OMC and BRP ever produced....or had produced for them. Very little of the Etec is "new". It has some of the old bulletproof 90° crossflow charactistics, and even some of the failed FICHT designs (the few truly good ones). If there are any design or programming flaws in the Etec it is only because of emission requirements. Over time I'm confident that you'll see the Etec's lasting much longer than any other outboard produced. The 4-strokes that they are allegedly "competing against".....As I said before, on the average motor the powerheads won't even last as long as the original set of spark plugs that is put in them before needing a complete rebuild (which will invariably cost double what the motor is even worth). So if a good 4-stroke tech tells you that it's time for a fresh set of spark plugs then you'd better start shopping for a new motor. 😉

Oh I'm enjoying it. Don't ever think I'm butthurt over a good ribbing.....I live for it. This place would be as boring as Facebook if we didn't get to roast each other from time to time. I hate semi random parts-swapping to find the problem with a motor though. If you don't fully understand what your doing, and why, then it's impossible to have confidence in a repair. This one here, even though I feel like I understand the system perfectly, is downright screwy. I'm anxious to know what is going on with it.

Me either. And neither do the guys at MDC who decided to spend millions of our dollars on them. They'd rather eat spaghetti. 🤔

So now you're gonna pretend that you weren't being sarcastic? With your snide smiley and all? 🙄 Ok darling, my apologies. Yes honey it is a 2 stroke engine, but there's no real difference between a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke ignition/charging system. They both do the same thing the same way.

Um, yeah that never happens.

It's an ignition problem, ya Goofball. 2stroke/4stroke is irrelevant. 4-stokes don't even live long enough to have ignition failure 😂 You can't even wear out a spark plug on a 4S before it's ready for the graveyard.

I'm not gonna be satisfied until ANOTHER new stator is tried. After that I'm stumped unless I can go one on one with it.

This is freakin' crazy !

Ok you're good. I guess the replacement now converts it to Quik-Start. I didn't know that. So no spark at all now? Zero (or very low) primary voltage from the Ppack?

Orange wires? On a 1990 60hp ? That's not a Quik-Start/SLOW system ! Gimme the model # I think you've got the wrong parts on that hussy. Your stator should have a brown and brown/yellow, and 2 bigger yellow and yellow/gray leads, and that's all. The Ppacks and stators with orange wires are for motors equipped with Quik-Start and SLOW.

I have quite a few Amish/modern Mennonite customers, they aren't supposed to own boats....but they are allowed to be PARTNERS with someone who does. All are good people with very polite wives and children, and they always pay with cash. 😊 Of all the religious lifestyles out there, Amish is the only one I admire and have deep respect for.

I can tell you this for sure though:. Let's say that you are away from home on a fishing trip and have problems, expecting warranty repair from the closest Evinrude dealer......If the warranty is expired on a 2016 then you are gonna get charged full parts&labor unless you contact the dealer you bought it from and THEY work it out with the dealer you are trying to get service from. Which will undoubtedly be a vacation ruining nightmare.....ifyouknowwhatimean.

That is indeed a 2016 motor. The dealer titling it as a 2019 may actually be commiting "fraud"?..... but don't quote me on that because I'm not a dealer, have never been one, or worked for one directly, so I'm not sure what they can/can't do, and can't speak for what is considered "normal". In 2012 BRP changed their model number system so that all parts/service is done by referencing model numbers instead of the Year-Model like they have always done before. Supposedly they did this to assist their dealer network in inventory and service bulletins, but being the Red Pill guy that I am, I think I know the real reason. Everything else that is subject to being titled and registered is expected to be manufactured in the same year that it is titled under......Now maybe outboard motor dealers, since not all states require that outboards be titled and registered, managed to pull that little shinanigan off legally, but nevertheless it is a shinanigan. So I guess my next question is, did you pay a 2016 price? If you did then no harm/no foul....until you try to sell it.

You've got it right. The trigger and switchbox (together) do what POINTS AND CONDENSERS used to do back when life was simple.

Sounds like you need a stator and a switchbox. Low stator voltage likely killed the switchbox. Trigger is probably fine, but if it has a degrading harness, and you aren't broke yet.....then you might as well get a fresh one. Timing will need to be checked/reset after replacing the trigger.

What is your coil primary readings? (green to ground on all 3 ignition coils with everything hooked up) How "low" was the trigger output? It actually only takes 0.4v to fire the switch box.