fishinwrench

LMAO Them Yuppies just wanna be different don't they? Gotta have warm wine and all...

Um...wha ? Pump...Cylinders..., trim motor..., harness..., relays..., switch. There's some confusion of components going on there ^^. At this point all we have eliminated is the trim motor.

You're so generous at Christmas-time. Thank you! I only deserve 1 or 2 though, Phil set it up. I bet he was fishing a roach.

He topped the tank off and put Stabil in it November of last year. It was "running fine when he put it into storage".

Phil and Brian are the ones calling it a disease, I'm saying it is just a temporary condition.

if the affliction is truly called "Colombomo" (or whatever) that is freaking hilarious ! I was thinking more.....Cronic-Ganja Optinitus

Break in case of Emergency?

Take a look at this yummy concoction...

When you press the trim switch to the "down" position can you hear the pump motor hum, click or do anything.....or is it just dead? On the other issue: Battery drawdown is either a blown diode in the rectifier, a bad key switch, or a damaged circuit somewhere in the wiring harness (specifically the Purple, or Red w/Purple stripe circuits). Do the two large yellow wires coming from under the flywheel look like they have been hot ?

Well, we know it's a 150..... Ford, Chevy, or Dodge? and what year model?

The pump is immersed in fuel inside the vapor sep. About the only thing that can clog the pump is sludge from very old fuel that has turned to sludge while setting in the vapor sep. One good thing that can be said about alcohol enhanced fuels = they don't go sludgy without the presence of oil, and actually stay pretty fresh when kept in a sealed (non vented) and non corrosive container. It is when they are exposed to the atmosphere that they begin to deteriorate by vapor loss, evaporation and moisture wicking.

In clear pools in the late Fall/Winter toss a big dark colored salt impregnated tube on a standard 1/8 insert head close to where you think a Smallmouth might be, let it glide to the bottom on a tight line, take up ALMOST all the slack, put your finger on the line.....and just hold it motionless for as long as you can stand it (for me that's about 30-40 seconds). There's something about seeing that tube swim to the bottom and then just sit there that will make them pick it up and move off with it. The really cool thing is that this first starts to work for me when the leaves get bad making almost any other presentation impossible. Standard jigs and worms don't work for this, only tubes, and preferably big fat ones. Its gotta be the way they sink that gets their attention.

Nope. Not even a tiny speck of pollen can find it's way into the sealed vapor separator.

LMAO! No it's not true. And neither is that. The fuel pump is most definatly covered....no additional upgraded warrany, or special "talking into" required. LOL I'm curious as to why they even said that. On your copy of the work order does it list the part numbers (one of which being a forty-some dollar vapor sep. seal) ? Just curious. They fail because of an overheated circuit, either low voltage, or something holding back the pump motor (similar to how your trolling motor would fry if you put it on the highest speed and stood on the button while the prop was kept from turning) it either has to trip a breaker, melt a wire in two, or fry the motor windings.

True that. At least he caught some decent fish. I have torn up plenty of stuff trying to get a boat into certain spots .... and then got blanked. One extremely windy day on Mark Twain I got the bright idea that if I pulled the plug and let some water in the boat to weigh it down that I'd be able to hold on a brushy midlake hump that we'd been killing the bass on (anchoring was against the rules). Assuming that I'd be able to bilge out the water when I had a strong limit. Well I did get a limit but the bilge pump crapped out. Had nothing bigger than a pork frog jar in the boat to bail with and everytime I tried to get the boat underway the nose came up making all the water go to the back and try to sink the transom. Had to idle back at a snails pace (late) to the weigh-in, 9 miles through 2 ft. wind rollers, then burnt up the clutch in my old 3 on the tree 6cyl. chevy trying to get the boat far enough up the ramp to drain it. So I'm no stranger to failed judgement calls.

Never thought of that leapfrog shuttle deal, that'd be pretty cool if the float distances were similar.

He looks really stoned. Prolly a Colorado hybrid.

Best hope that bastage doesn't find a cemetery...

That's the old timer theory, yeah.... to run the carbs dry. Its a BS theory though because unless you have only one carb and play with the "choke" (which most modern outboards don't even have anymore) so it sucks more than half the bowl dry, it really doesn't do what you think. All it really does is speeds up the time it will take the always remaining oil to dry out and get thick. The more liquid fuel there is in the bowl the longer it takes to evaporate completely. See what I'm sayin'? Which will turn to a thick goo quicker..... one droplet of oil, or a teaspoon full? It only takes a tiny little droplet of thick goo to partially or completely plug the HS jet and emulsion tube in the bottom of the carb bowl.

Shuttling sucks. It is a total PIA.... but that's why the fishing on some stretches is so good. The average guy can effectively fish about 4 miles of water in a day (after dealing with the chinese fire drill we call "shuttling"). If your float is only 4-5 miles you can fish it all, but if the float is very much longer you'll have to just hit some of it on the fly or pass up a few stretches. After you've paid your dues you'll learn the type of areas that you can afford to pass up during any given season...and it does change with the seasons and conditions. Good luck with your new addiction

Yep, your first start after a period of sitting is always gonna be heavy on oil. The fuel in the carb bowls evaporates through the vents leaving the oil behind, then when you pump the bulb it adds 50:1 mix to what is left in the bowls.... so you are always double-oil on a first start after a period of no operation. It will clear out in about 4-5 minutes or by the time it warms up to operating temperature. If it sets long enough the oil will turn to molasses-like sludge that the fresh fuel can't disolve and it clogs up the jets and emulsion tubes (regardless of whether you used stabilizer or not).... Or in the case of an EFI 2-stroke, clogs up the fuel pump and components of the vapor separator and injectors. This is a really good thing cuz guys like me have to eat and pay bills too

What you have there is a repeating phantasm, or what is more technically described as a class 5 free roaming vapor. A real nasty one too.

How's it taste?

Condensation and/or moisture absorbtion over the few months of Winter isn't anything to be concerned about. If it is just a gallon or two in a poryable tank the best thing to do is dump it out and start fresh in the Spring, but most folks just top it off with fresh fuel and that seldom causes any noticable problems. If you have doubts about the quality of it you can draw a cupful into a glass jar and see if it separates (water) or has a varnish or aerosol smell (old/stale). Old gasoline turns dark, thicker, and smells like varnish. Old alcohol enhanced fuel looks like weak cloudy lemonade and smells like spray paint or hairspray.

Don't think I didn't try Do you have any idea where a google search like that will take you? I think I have officially pulled a muscle. LMAO