Whiteriver

You might want to read this info in the new 25hp Yamaha's..It states that they are battery less EFI manual starts. https://yamahaoutboards.com/en-us/home/outboards/25-2-5-hp/25-15 Our 432-cc 25-hp portable outboard sports a new, streamlined, portable design and class-leading power-to-weight. In fact, it’s the lightest 25-hp outboard on the water—two-stroke or four-stroke. While its streamlined design is 25 percent lighter, it still packs exciting features like battery-less EFI. Pull-start models can now take advantage of this feature, plus the system is designed with an automatic decompression device to require even less effort for manual starting. Available for remote mechanical or tiller-handle control Only 126 pounds (15” shaft model) Available in 15” and 20” shaft lengths Powerful 16-amp alternator Variable Trolling RPM Switch (VTS®) is standard when equipped with new factory-equipped tiller handle or optional Multi-Function Tiller Handle, a Command Link® tachometer or dash mounted VTS switch Our 432-cc 25-hp portable outboard sports a new, streamlined, portable design and class-leading power-to-weight. In fact, it’s the lightest 25-hp outboard on the water—two-stroke or four-stroke. While its streamlined design is 25 percent lighter, it still packs exciting features like battery-less EFI. Pull-start models can now take advantage of this feature, plus the system is designed with an automatic decompression device to require even less effort for manual starting. Available for remote mechanical or tiller-handle control Only 126 pounds (15” shaft model) Available in 15” and 20” shaft lengths Powerful 16-amp alternator Variable Trolling RPM Switch (VTS®) is standard when equipped with new factory-equipped tiller handle or optional Multi-Function Tiller Handle, a Command Link® tachometer or dash mounted VTS switch PORTABLE Our 432-cc 25-hp portable outboard sports a new, streamlined, portable design and class-leading power-to-weight. In fact, it’s the lightest 25-hp outboard on the water—two-stroke or four-stroke. While its streamlined design is 25 percent lighter, it still packs exciting features like battery-less EFI. Pull-start models can now take advantage of this feature, plus the system is designed with an automatic decompression device to require even less effort for manual starting. Available for remote mechanical or tiller-handle control Only 126 pounds (15” shaft model) Available in 15” and 20” shaft lengths Powerful 16-amp alternator Variable Trolling RPM Switch (VTS®) is standard when equipped with new factory-equipped tiller handle or optional Multi-Function Tiller Handle, a Command Link® tachometer or dash mounted VTS switch

You can do without Tilt and Trim on a 25hp Yamaha...They are not heavy and have a shallow water drive if needed....from the looks of the lakes and generation water, you won't need T & C for years to come...lol I bought a 25 Yammy from Bull Shoals Boat Dock and it's the best small motor I've ever owned. I did put a manual jack plate on my Supreme L48XP though and raised my motor up a little...inexpensive way to do that.

Supreme's don't have a gasket per se. They use "Jiffy Trim" to cover the rough fiberglass and use the raised rim as a method to make it a dry box...it's just an inch or so lip that is raised to now allow water to enter. I would say if he's parking it on a steep enough incline the water is pooling up and running over the lip.

I'm guessing it's pooling up in the rim of the dry storage and not allowing water to drain out into the floor...In other words, it's running over the lip of the box in a corner more than likely....check for debris or an obstruction and if that's not it, take it by Supreme and let them take a look at it to see if they can diagnose and correct that problem...It shouldn't be getting water in there, but I have seen it happen on some of the older boats.

I will do and thank you for your input..I went to the Norfork this afternoon and started it multiple times without a hitch...It was a strange deal though coming out a day or two later and not touched it and it fired right up...that neutral safety switch makes sense as it was probably stuck and came loose...thanks again for your help.

I've got a 2018 25hp Yamaha Electric Start that a week or so ago wouldn't start with the electric start..No power to the solenoid at all. Battery good, connections good, wiggled the gear shift back and forth, checked all the connections I could get too, all that stuff, but when you pushed the start button--nothing, no power. I took a screwdriver and jumped across the positive and negative on the solenoid and it cranked right up. I let it sit a day or two and went back out there and hit the start button and cranked right up and hasn't missed a lick since. It is under warranty and I could haul it to Bull Shoals Bt. Dock where I bought it, which is what I was going to do before it started working again, but no use now since they'd prolly not find the culprit and I'd be without my motor for a while.. The night before it stopped working I left my boat tied up on the river and it was really foggy with tons of moisture all night..I got in it the next morning and it cranked right up for about an hour and then just suddenly stopped when I was about to take it out of the water and put it on the trailer.. I know this is a lot of info, but I wanted to kind of explain the scenario. If it does it again I'll let Bull Shoals Bt. Dock mess with it, but in the meantime does anyone have any idea what would make it stop out of the blue and then start working again out of the blue? I used to have a lawnmower that would foul solenoids and I just quit putting them on and started using a screwdriver to start the mower---I figured it might be the same problem--the solenoid. I'd take any advice though if someone has some insight...thanks.

#1 Boats were NOT built by Supreme...other than that, don't know much about them except they're out of business.

Check Craigslist Jonesboro--I just saw a 16ft Topwater for sale on there-

Maxima----Maxima monofilament is the toughest line I've run across and the lines I use need to be pretty tough. Most of the time my line is running across logs, rocks, and other obstructions on the Norfork and White and Maxima has always been strong--it can tangle a little, but I can deal with that compared to it's abrasion resistance.

Update on this situation:::::: He changed props to a 10 pitch 4 blade and it fixed it---no blow out and getting plenty of bite.

What would suggestions be for the optimum performance---mainly speed-for a 20hp Honda on a 20ft Supreme L48? It currently has the standard 9.25 X 9 pitch 4 blade. The boat gets up out of the water fine and no cavitation, but top speed is lacking somewhat...I've run 2 of the the same set ups, however, the other was on a 20 ft 48 inch bottom Shawnee. Anyone have any input on which prop might add a little more speed?

What about the vinyl stuff that G3 uses in their boats...I just looked at one that had that in it and I like it. It's a rubber type flooring with anti skid and it looked like it is just glued to the aluminum sides and floor. Check out G3's website and it should show some boats that have it...

It is a 22 ft Tracker Fishing Barge w/60hp Bigfoot---he changed the 15 pitch 3 blade to the 10 pitch 3 blade and it still blows out at approx 3,000-3,200 rpm's.

He's still at the lake, but called me and said changing the 15 pitch Stainless back to the 10 pitch Aluminum didn't make any difference. It is blowing out at around 3000 to 3200 rpm's with both props. Both are 3 blade. And, I it's a 22ft Tracker Fishing Barge, but it does have a 60 hp Merc w/tilt & trim. As soon as he gets back I'll take some pictures from the back of the boat.

I will get a couple of pictures. He was explaining what his set up was and I really hadn't paid much attention to it in the past, so I went over there last night to take a closer look. It's a 2012 setup and the motor has tilt and trim. He has a 20ft Bass Cat, so he understands the motor needs to be trimmed all the way down on take off. We put a straight edge on the motor and it was about 4.5 inches below the planing toon or whatever the official name for the middle toon/planing apparatus is called, so we raised the motor another couple of holes and now its about 1.5 inches between the planing toon and the cavitation plate on the motor, but that's the last hole, so it can't be raised any further. He also changed the prop back to the original 3 blade 10 pitch that was on it. He keeps it trailered and in a garage, but I will have him check for water in the pontoons---he's taking it to the lake today to see if raising the motor and the 10 pitch prop helped--the 15 pitch is not a pontoon prop I don't think from looking at the specs--especially for that Bigfoot motor. I'll snap a couple of pictures when he gets back from the lake. Thanks again.