Power Pro

[Feathers and Fins]

Im going to chime in here a bit. I started fishing long before the super-lines came out. I remember when Spider Wire came out and everyone including myself was buying it and using it. I never really liked it but as each braid came out I tried them looking for a line I could settle on as being equal to or superior to Mono.

Then came along the fluorocarbons lines and I tried them out and found they were superior to Mono and IMO superior to Braid. Here is why, using braid you need to tie a leader on in many situations! You do not need to with fluorocarbon. Some argue Braid is more sensitive yet I have talked to many and include myself in this that if you have a trained finger or sense of feel Fluorocarbon is a sensitive line as well. The only major advantage I have ever found to Braids is you can use a high breaking strength line with a smaller diameter to help pull fish out of cover.

For me and this is just me mind you, I like to fight a fish and give it advantages, I just do not understand using line so powerful you can water ski a fish across the water. To me fishing is about testing the skill not just in lure selection and presentation but in the battle that occurs after all that.

Fluorocarbon gives me invisibility and sensitivity and the ability to play a fish with it having the advantages. So when looking at Lines I think its important to decide what you are wanting to do. Catch fish with a sporting advantage or just catch fish and put them in your hands for pictures?

[riverfish]

although i do use braid in some occasions im with fins on the flouro part it took me a long time to come around to trying it b/c i had bought a bad spool of it and my first experience was that all fouro was JUNK. not the case i have recently started to try the flouro again with my jigs and texas rig soft plastics paired with tungsten sinkers the sensitivity is hands down just flat out rediculous i will never go back to mono or lead for texas rig applications the tungsten and flouro have you setting on the fish before it even gets the bait all the way in its mouth until you get used to it. just my opinion oh and the flouro i have given a second chance is the vicious flouro pro elite i really really like it

[Guest]

Don't take this wrong, but that's your fault and not the line. If you do 3 things you can virtually eliminate it all together. The only exception is if the lure is doing the twisting.

First thing is to always close the bail by hand. Two is when you put on new line taking it off the spool in the right direction only helps, but it doesn't cure because the diameters don't match. After you fill a spool, take it outside and pull off as much line as you can in a straight line. Then holding the line between your thumb and forefinger reel it in, not too fast. Next run the spool under hot tap water for a minute or two and warm it up. You will have very little problems after doing this. If a lure puts too much twist in the line repeat pulling the line off and putting it back on the spool.

I have always closed the bail by hand, and fill the spool with the label up. Most of my line twist comes from lures that spin on a cast, or lures like flukes that spin somewhat when twitched across the surface. I tie direct with braid, and use flouro and mono on casting tackle. Flouro rocks for abrasion resistance and bottom bouncing bats. I also like flouro and mono better in the wintertime, PP can freeze.

[Feathers and Fins]

The best way to straighten line is tie a snap barrel swivel to the end of your line. When you get to the lake put a 3oz weight on it and run out the spool and run at speed for about a mile then reel it in. Its an old trick used on the party boat fleet by the oldtimers and it works great. I do it after a day on the water throwing lures as well just to get it straightened back out. I have used Seagar for years and never had a bad time with it as long as i made sure to spool it right and then do the above mentioned process.

[Mitch f]

I can tie a leader on in about 15 seconds with a surgeons knot. Uni to Uni, Albrights, and other fancy knots take to long. Here's an illustration...havent tried the canoeman loop yet.

http://www.doalures.com/uploads/Docs/9102_DOA_10.28__Knot_Page.pdf

Good call Gavin, I like this idea

[drew03cmc]

I keep meaning to pick up some 10/2 PP for my 5'6" L spin rod, but get sticker shock once in awhile. I will need about 300 yards for it. I guess I will grab a new reel at the end of the month too.

[eric1978]

I keep meaning to pick up some 10/2 PP for my 5'6" L spin rod, but get sticker shock once in awhile. I will need about 300 yards for it. I guess I will grab a new reel at the end of the month too.

You don't have to fill the whole spool with it, silly. I usually fill about 2/3 with the cheapest mono I can find in the bargain bins, then top it off with whatever. You only need a few yards more than your longest cast will be. And you can find PP cheaper online, especially if you buy bulk spools. It doesn't go bad, so as long as you know you'll use it, that's the way to go.

[RSBreth]

The "sporting advantage" theory is really a strange idea to me - so it's better to play a fish to exhaustion to prove you're a better angler with lighter line rather than get it in and on it's way quickly?

I'm not telling you how I think you should fish, but saying the methods that allow fish to be landed quickly and released (pictures or not) is not something we should strive for is odd to me.

I almost forgot - the running on plane with a 3-ounce weight on the end of the line is an awesome idea. I'll put that one in there with the other reasons not to use mono.

[Wayne SW/MO]

With all do respect F & F I can walk out 50 yards + or - and reel it back on without any fuss or burning any gas.

4/15 will give you better control and safety Drew. 10/2 is so thin that if it gets scratched it breaks.

[Jerry Rapp]

^{here is my opinon. I have done the braid, co polymers, flouro thing. Just get some Big Game Trilene and use what pound test you want for the conditions. You will never worry about respooling(the cost factor) and I bet you catch just as many fish. I am just saying.}