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Posted

OK, so I have bought a used baitcaster setup. Got it very cheap, but have never used a baitcaster. I have seen them used, watched a few youtube videos, and went out to try it out. I was able to cast it and it retrieves amazingly. Of course being new to this type of reel, I am not sure of all of the settings. I plan to use this in bass/crappie/gill fishing. It is an Abu Garcia reel, and did not see any direct markings on it. It has a star type drag adjustment and a turn knob on the same side as the retreive handle, and a dial knob on the opposite side. As most will know, I am having some backlash problems, and with out a manual, want to know if anyone could give me some tips on "fine tuning" this reel. I know that most will be figured out with more practice.

When side casting I use my right hand, and release just early, as I would with an open face, or spincast, and am usually confident in where I am placing my cast, I am crossing myself and going way to the left. In other words, if I want to cast to the right of my right shoulder, somehow, I am casting in front of me or slightly to the left. When forward casting, going directly over my shoulder, I seem to cast about 10 feet in front of me and, then I get a good birds nest.

Any tips are GREATLY appreciated.

Money is just ink and paper, worthless until it switches hands, and worthless again until the next transaction. (me)

I am the master of my unspoken words, and the slave to those that should have remained unsaid. (unknown)

Posted

tie on a lure, the size of which you will use most often. Hold the rod out parallel to the ground. Adjust the tension to where when you disengage the reel and let the lure free fall to the ground it won't overrun(mini backlash). That will be a good starting point, and after you figure that out you can adjust it with each lure you use on the water in the same manner. You will learn in using it that your thumb is your best friend. Then you will be able to loosen up the tension and cast further, and once you learn it is just like riding a bike, you never forget. Also adjust the drag to where you can pull the line off semi easily. I would also suggest using some Big Game Trilene line, probably 12 or 15lb test before you load it up with expensive flouro or such. Good luck, you will 5 to 10 baitcasters in a couple of years I bet. And by the way, none of us ever get backlashes, they are professional overruns.....................LOL!

Posted

The small knob is the spool tension..adjust that first like Jerry suggested...The second dial knob is probably a magnetic brake of some sort...crank that to full on, and back it off slowly when your practicing...if you still backlash after that..tighten your spool tension...and start over. Good luck with it.

Posted

Cast overhand.

Today's release is tomorrows gift to another fisherman.

Posted

Daryk - welcome to reel fishing. :-D

The knob on the right is the reel tension knob. You use it to make minor adjustments on how freely the spool spins when the anti-reverse is disengaged by pushing the button. The knob on the left side is the brake system for controlling the free spin during the cast. The right one you set as described above by Jerry. The left one allows you to adjust for wind in your face or behind you, for baits that fly poorly like buzz baits, or baits that fly well like grubs on jig heads. In addition, your setting will depend on how much you feather the spinning spool with your thumb. In the old days no brake existed and you had to learn to feather with your thumb.

For accuracy and consistency, teach yourself to throw with your elbow by your side and the reel handles pointing at the sky. After you master that you will know enough and be good enough to try other ways. My favorite cast when running the bank and fishing cover is a underhand roll cast in which the rod tip never goes higher than my shoulder and the handle stays below my belt.

Have fun. Once addicted, you will be like me: not a spinning rod in the boat unless it's for company.

Posted

BTW I see you mention using the reel for crappie and bluegill also. Where a baitcaster can get real finicky is tossing light baits, say less than a 1/4 oz(tossing light baits into a wind is really a challenge). It can be done, but it's tough when you're just starting out. Making sure you have a rod that is in the weight range of the bait you're tossing is important also.

Posted

I too am learning to cast a baitcaster, one of the tips I found when doing some research was after setting the reel like mentioned above you would cast out to basicly get a max cast length, then reel off a few more yards of line. Then using splicing tape rape a layer of tape around the spool, now wind the line up as normal. Now when you have a "professional overrun" it won't dig as far down into the line. I also bought a little pick at BP that will help dig out a really bad PO.

I spent a lot of time out in the yard using a practice plug before I ever took it out to fish.

Good luck

Posted

Getting good at picking out "professional overruns" is part of the game too.

Get a little pick, or a little flathead screwdriver you keep in the tacklebox. It's self explanatory once you are looking at the reel. This is the best way to clear the line... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21npUSs98NY&feature=related

Keep in mind, once you get "good" at using a baitcaster, you'lll only backlash very rarely. It's probably been months since I backlashed.

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Posted

As mentioned If you can keep the spool vertical when casting. I think it was put as keeping the handles up. It really helps. Practice makes perfect. On a windy day it can still cause fits.

Posted

I think one thing that frustrates beginning baitcasters is the whippy rods that are sometimes part of combos. Bait casting works a little better with a stiffer rod with a little back bone.

Sharkey's right, palm down handles up. The axis of the spool should be vertical.

Messing about in boats

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