Light Wire Vs Heavy Wire Hooks....

[fishinwrench]

Crazy. In what instances are you breaking them, Wrench?

Fishing wide open flats from a boat, for striped fish. I'm usually stripping line like I am trying to start a chainsaw with bad gas and the hits are usually pretty violent. Like I tried to explain earlier in this thread (but it's hard to describe in words) I believe it happens when they engulf the fly at breakneck speed and the hook point hangs up at a severe angle to the direction of line pull as the hook is going INTO the fishes mouth.... then they either turn and blaze off....or I set the hook, and....Snap! In this situation it is trying to "roll the hook out, but they are so sharp that the point sticks putting some pretty severe sudden tension on the hook bend.

I know this happens alot with whites and hybrids because It is not rare at all to land a fish on a 34007 that is stuck somewhere in the lower jaw and also notice a nasty fresh tear in the roof of its mouth. Or land one stuck in the upper part of his mouth with a torn up bleeding tongue. The 34007 is strong enough to resist flexing due to the wire diameter, and isn't so heavily tempered that it becomes brittle.....like some ultra-tempered fine wire hooks are.

I have also broken several B10S when lightly hung up on a piece of wet wood and I throw a brisk roll cast over the stick to free the fly (ya know, that little trick that we all try a couple of times before we go fetch it manually).

Just the sudden jerk of a loop of 7-9wt. Line will snap a #4 B10S. I can break one without ever pulling hard on the snagged fly, just by doing a fast tight looped roll cast if the point is stabbed into soggy wood, so that is what convinced me that it was a "line pull angle vs. brittle tempered steel" thing.

Does any of that BS make any sense? LOL

[fishinwrench]

The same kind of thing happens when fishing rigged soft plastics either Texas or Carolina rigged. The fish sucks it in while moving towards you, balling the whole thing up in its mouth. If he mashes down on it with the hook pointed AWAY from you and that sharp hook point stabs a little, then you haul off and cross his eyes you are snapping that line at a 90° (or more) angle to the point of the hook.

Sluggo/fluke hookups are NOTORIOUS for this. Just start looking for tears inside the mouths of fish you land on "tex-posed" flukes and you'll see what I mean.

Geeze, this is impossible to explain without pictures

[Gavin]

That B10S seems to break before it bends. The same can be said about the Dai Riki 810....Try using them for clousers if you want to break a lot of hook points.

[Al Agnew]

H-(b+f)-(m+v)=p gotta add the movement velocity, line stretch, rod stiffness

Nah, that's all in H. H is the total energy generated by your hookset, measured at the eye of the hook, and for the sake of comparison it's assumed to be the same each time, although in the real world we know it isn't because of the factors you mentioned. The whole question is how much of that energy is bled off by the characteristics of the hook and the characteristics of the thing you're setting it into.

[Mitch f]

Nah, that's all in H. H is the total energy generated by your hookset, measured at the eye of the hook, and for the sake of comparison it's assumed to be the same each time, although in the real world we know it isn't because of the factors you mentioned. The whole question is how much of that energy is bled off by the characteristics of the hook and the characteristics of the thing you're setting it into.

Yes, You're right!

I tried to test out your equation at Busch Wildlife today but the fish were having no part of it!

[countryred]

Here is my take which goes back to my tournament days. Big stiffer rod. heavy line, 20lb and up ,..use a heavy wire hook. with a big barb...4/0 HP is awesome.. Medium action rod, lighter line....8-15lb test,,,use a light wire hook with a small barb. like most gamakatsu's..

.

[Mitch f]

Thought I would post a little trick I once learned from Zipstick about increasing the bite of a hook. Just use a pair of needle nose pliers and squeeze in the middle of the bend....ever so slightly. Works well. The pics are in sequence. I think it can really help up your hook up percentage, especially if you've got too thick of plastic. Be sure not to do it too much!!

[Guest]

Smallmouth or little bass= light wire

Largemouth= heavy wire

[Old plug]

Well i suppose i am a bit to old to worry about the various technical points of a hooks i just look at the size its sizes and shape fir the intended application plus its cost are the main things. Only thing i do not like to see on a hook are large barbs.

[jdmidwest]

I really can't say I have ever lost a fish due to a hook failure. I have had some nice fish and never straightened or broke one on a fish trying to land. But the largest fish I target are less than 20 lbs.

I have broke hooks and straightened them on snags.

I tend to fish only Trilene mono, medium to ultralight action rods, and fish for bass, bream, and trout.

As far as fly fishing, again, lighter 4 and 5wt rods and never more than 6 lb test. Even with salmon I use a 7 wt with 6 or 8 lb tippets.

If I have a failure it is usually a knot or line issue. I have never really gotten into the flourocarbon or braided lines, that may be an issue since they have less give.