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Posted
1 hour ago, dtrs5kprs said:

One of the keys on color shifts is using a light touch. If you want that highlight/interference look on a light color it sometimes takes mixing a little of the highlight in another color (as opposed to just shooting it over a dark color).

I took a medium gray & sprayed the back then came back with the teal/purple color shift paint. It came out really natural looking but almost too light gray. The next bait, I sprayed purple over the back (slightly darker than medium gray) then hit it with the teal/purple color shift paint. For some reason, that killed the color shift. I guess the purple base coat prevented the color shift from making a full effect. 

Do these kinda paints need to be sprayed over gray or silver to be effective?

Posted
1 hour ago, TrophyFishR said:

I took a medium gray & sprayed the back then came back with the teal/purple color shift paint. It came out really natural looking but almost too light gray. The next bait, I sprayed purple over the back (slightly darker than medium gray) then hit it with the teal/purple color shift paint. For some reason, that killed the color shift. I guess the purple base coat prevented the color shift from making a full effect. 

Do these kinda paints need to be sprayed over gray or silver to be effective?

With my color shift paints (Spaz Stix), I use only their specific "backer" base coats: White, Silver, Hi-gloss Black

Posted
1 hour ago, TrophyFishR said:

I took a medium gray & sprayed the back then came back with the teal/purple color shift paint. It came out really natural looking but almost too light gray. The next bait, I sprayed purple over the back (slightly darker than medium gray) then hit it with the teal/purple color shift paint. For some reason, that killed the color shift. I guess the purple base coat prevented the color shift from making a full effect. 

Do these kinda paints need to be sprayed over gray or silver to be effective?

For me, the interference colors are easy to goof up if shooting them over colors like pearl, white, very light gray. They can build up into kind of chalky/milky look. 

Posted

I found the combination for V38

orange belly

lime pearl sides 

light brown back 

shell light brown 

I'm doing a craw dad stencil instead of squiggly lines down each side.

 

Posted

Missouri Craw Schedule I found online (I don't know the wiggle wart number for it):

miss craw pink- wicked Driscoll tone, wicked crimson, creat. Transparent white, createx orange, reducer. Heat bait first.

belly- wicked crimson, createx orange, Fluor. Orange

bars/back- wicked detail moss green, wicked phalatco(sp) green, forest green. Mostly moss by far.

Eye- createx opaque red, createx bright red, wicked burnt umber. Dipped with appropriately sized highlighter pen tip. 1/4" pupil opaque black.

The back and bars could be lighter. Just the moss green may be best or add in some leaf green to see how that goes.

 

Posted

Mizzou craw has a pepto bismol kinda hue.

We should start a wiggle wart color chart with the recipe for each color. At least the most popular colors.

 

 

 

 

Posted

has anyone tried UV mediums?

<---- that spook has UV. idk if it catches more of bigger fish but it works.  I have a lot of confidence in UV baits when walleye fishing.

did a clunn sticker with UV but haven't fished it yet

Posted
1 hour ago, Fish24/7 said:

has anyone tried UV mediums?

<---- that spook has UV. idk if it catches more of bigger fish but it works.  I have a lot of confidence in UV baits when walleye fishing.

did a clunn sticker with UV but haven't fished it yet

I haven't yet, but I am actively looking for a way to add UV to a few lures.

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