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Posted

I'm assuming the best way to custom paint lures is by airbrush gun. My father is retired and he wants to start painting and so do I. Can you paint as good as quality without an airbrush gun? We both are new to this and have no idea what products to buy. Any input would be great thanks guys. 

Posted
28 minutes ago, Alex Heitman said:

I'm assuming the best way to custom paint lures is by airbrush gun. My father is retired and he wants to start painting and so do I. Can you paint as good as quality without an airbrush gun? We both are new to this and have no idea what products to buy. Any input would be great thanks guys. 

It's really an airbrush deal. Doesn't have to be super expensive. 

A reliable brush like a Passche VL, or an Iwata, plus a decent compressor are the key parts. Some acrylic paint like Createx, and a clear coat to seal it. Most of us start with devcon 2-ton long set epoxy, and move on to thinner clears. A rotating drying rack is necessary with most of the clears.

Lot of different stencil materials and scale mesh work. I'm sure everyone has a trick or two for those.

Takes a lot of patience, practice, and time spent looking at TU. 

Posted

Dave is right. 

I would also add a respirator with charcoal filters & a paint booth, unless you paint outside. I've heard of people using a tent out on the back porch. 

The main issue for me is clear coating indoors this time of year. You can ruin a good paint job if it's not 70+ degrees in the garage. I developed allergies by doing this in a spare bedroom. My garage is about 50 degrees this time of year. I can paint today but can't clear coat unless I run a space heater. So that's my biggest hurdle at the moment. Also a set of airbrush cleaning brushes & air brush cleaner is a good idea. 

Posted

I've always used a big cardboard box for a paint booth. Home Depot box size. Good tip on the cleaning supplies and respirator.

The temp issue is one of the reasons I like Flex Coat for a clear. Downside is the long turning time it requires.

Posted

So are you guys saying when you apply the devcon it needs to be 70+ but applying the pain won't hurt it it's below 70. I was thinking of painting in the garage  and then applying the devcon in the basement with a little heater on a drying rack. 

Posted

That's correct, createx will shoot at 55 degrees, but most epoxy needs 70+ degree ambient temperature. In fact 90 degrees is even better for Etex. The hotter it gets the faster it cures. It has 30min working time, 8hrs to dry & 48hrs to cure. Does flexcoat have a similar timeframe Dave? I will gladly switch to flex coat if it's easier on the lungs. 

Posted

Thanks trophy and Dave. Which Iwata paint brush would you recommend purchasing? There are several models and it seems the revolution have good reviews.

Posted
1 hour ago, TrophyFishR said:

That's correct, createx will shoot at 55 degrees, but most epoxy needs 70+ degree ambient temperature. In fact 90 degrees is even better for Etex. The hotter it gets the faster it cures. It has 30min working time, 8hrs to dry & 48hrs to cure. Does flexcoat have a similar timeframe Dave? I will gladly switch to flex coat if it's easier on the lungs. 

It's way faster than Etex. On a rod or a lure you are looking at 10-12 hours before you shut down the turner. 24 and it should be good handle, paint next coat/details. I usually use 3-4 coats of FC, depending on colors and flake.

You can smell it, but I don't find it irritating. Temps in our basement probably average 67-70.

Posted

2oz kit if FC is about $16 tyd on eBay. Two 1oz bottles, and syringes. Handy to have for rod repair, bait touch ups too.

You want is the high build. Tried the Lite and it is very different. Not sure on the new UV formula. Haven't used it.

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