fishinwrench Posted February 17, 2021 Posted February 17, 2021 26 minutes ago, MrGiggles said: Would putting a vacuum gauge on the crankcase balance ports tell you anything meaningful about the crank sealing rings? It wouldn't tell ME anything. I've never experienced a bad crankcase sealing ring. A timing light looking in the throat of the carb will show you if you are getting equal fuel dispersal from the emulsion tubes (#1-2 & 3). You can test intake vacuum balance with a playing card, or piece of construction paper over the front of the carbs while idling. No need to know the actual measurements of vacuum in PSI. If it's enough to matter you'll notice it easily with the paper test.
MrGiggles Posted February 17, 2021 Author Posted February 17, 2021 I played around with it some more. Timing is perfect, but it's not adjustable anyway. There is no big difference between the brightness of the timing light of all cylinders. I swapped in a cleaner set of plugs and it was running much better initially, then starting acting up as it ran longer. I'm starting to wonder if it isn't getting too much oil, all the plugs are oily, with oil wicking up the threads, and you can see the smoke in the videos I recorded. It's got premix in the tank and the oil injection is hooked up as well, although I'm not sure if it is working since I haven't bled it. Acting up. Running better. -Austin
fishinwrench Posted February 18, 2021 Posted February 18, 2021 My first impression is that it is too rich. Either the float levels are too high, idle mixture screws are set too rich, carb synchronization is off, or it is drawing excess fuel in from somewhere (fuel pump vacuum line? Or an intake recirculation hose is plugged up and raw fuel is puddling up in the crankcase).
MrGiggles Posted February 18, 2021 Author Posted February 18, 2021 19 hours ago, fishinwrench said: My first impression is that it is too rich. Either the float levels are too high, idle mixture screws are set too rich, carb synchronization is off, or it is drawing excess fuel in from somewhere (fuel pump vacuum line? Or an intake recirculation hose is plugged up and raw fuel is puddling up in the crankcase). Thanks Wrench. I went through the carbs again and set the floats a little more conservatively. They were pretty high before, the service manual is a little ambiguous. Oil pump output is well within spec. I pulled the fuel pump and ran it with my finger in the port. No gas coming out of it. It is still smoking like crazy and loading up. Thinking I might just put it all the way together and run the heck out of it for an afternoon after the ice melts, and regroup. -Austin
fishinwrench Posted February 18, 2021 Posted February 18, 2021 Fuel quality is good (fresh and with no additives)? Does that motor have a throttle position sensor ?
MrGiggles Posted February 19, 2021 Author Posted February 19, 2021 1 hour ago, fishinwrench said: Fuel quality is good (fresh and with no additives)? Does that motor have a throttle position sensor ? The fuel is probably a month old. I've been fishing with this motor all year, it's probably had over 100 gallons ran through it. It has what Suzuki calls a throttle valve switch. I replaced it a while ago and adjusted it according to the manual. From what I understand, it determines the point where the CDI starts to advance the timing when the throttle is opened. -Austin
fishinwrench Posted February 19, 2021 Posted February 19, 2021 Can you adjust your over-engineered "throttle valve switch" on the fly? In other words....Does adjusting it as the motor is idling smooth out the idle any ? It does have adjustable idle mixture jets, does it not? If so I think they are set too rich.
MrGiggles Posted February 19, 2021 Author Posted February 19, 2021 16 minutes ago, fishinwrench said: Can you adjust your over-engineered "throttle valve switch" on the fly? In other words....Does adjusting it as the motor is idling smooth out the idle any ? It does have adjustable idle mixture jets, does it not? If so I think they are set too rich. Its a pain to adjust. You remove a rubber plug and there's a tiny flathead screw inside. I've considered adjusting it, but with the initial timing being about where it should be, I don't think it's causing the issue. It has idle air jets, I've played with them quite a bit, I think they're set pretty close. It was actually running pretty well tonight, but Im not totally sure it is hitting on #3, so I pulled the lower plug wire, evidently there was some gas in the lower cowl, which quickly went up in flames. I packed it full of snow and called it quits after that. The fire got some of the wire loom but I don't think it's too bad. If I had insurance I may have just pushed it outside and let it burn. -Austin
fishinwrench Posted February 19, 2021 Posted February 19, 2021 Alrighty then. Well it still idles like crap, so..... Compression/fuel/ignition Pick whichever system you believe is most likely to be the problem....and start over. 😏
MrGiggles Posted February 19, 2021 Author Posted February 19, 2021 6 minutes ago, fishinwrench said: Alrighty then. Well it still idles like crap, so..... Compression/fuel/ignition Pick whichever system you believe is most likely to be the problem....and start over. 😏 I know it. I back the idle screws out until it starts to run crappy, and then give them 1/4-1/2 turn in. They're air screws, backwards compared to many. I think the thing to do now is get it out on the water and run it, get it cleaned out, and start over with adjustments. I think it is loaded up big time from running on premix and injected oil, continuing to run it in the barrel is only making it worse. Compression is 125# on all three, before and after the teardown. -Austin
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