Canoe's And Trucks

[Al Agnew]

I was never a fan of the foam blocks, no matter what kind of vehicle. They seem to me to be a temporary solution for short trips. The problem I see with them is that there is no positive way to keep the blocks themselves from moving from side to side, and that can be a real problem if you are traveling major highways with big trucks buffeting you. I've used them at times for short shuttles, but I wouldn't want them for a longer trip on heavily traveled highways.

The racks are the best, most positive way to go. I don't know what racks I'd recommend...the ones I always liked when I used a pick-up were called Rail-n-Racks. The uprights were attached to a permanent flat black bed rail, and folded down to form part of the bed rail when not in use, with the crossbars very easily removable. When the truck was not being used to transport canoes, it looked like it had nice looking bed rails, but it would only take about two minutes to raise the uprights and put on the cross bars. And you could very quickly tie two canoes down, with ropes and trucker's hitches. Problem is, I think the company must have gone out of business, as the last time I tried to find them I wasn't successful.

But if you want to carry a canoe in the bed, it depends a lot on the length of the canoe and the length of the bed. An eight foot bed will handle a canoe up to 16 feet, upside down with tailgate up. A short bed will usually necessitate carrying the canoe right side up with tailgate down. To really do it right, you need good tie down hardware at all four corners of the bed. Then you can stick the canoe in right side up, slide the front end right up into the driver's side corner of the bed, with the back end sticking out even with the passenger side. Tie a good tight short rope or ratchet strap to the tie down on that front corner and to the carrying handle on the front end of the canoe, or if the canoe doesn't have a good carrying handle, turn it around backwards and tie to the back seat--you want that tie to be as short as possible, because its main purpose is to keep the front end from rising up in that corner. Then tie a rope or strap from the back corner driver's side of the bed to whatever you can tie to that's on the back end of the canoe. You make this tie reasonably tight, but you can't cinch it down real hard or it will pull the back end of the canoe toward it. Then take one more rope or strap, attach to the passenger side rear corner of the bed, and to the same point on the back of the canoe as the other strap. This one you cinch down as tight as you can. That should make everything pretty tight to where it won't move from side to side. Stick a red flag of some kind on the back of the canoe and you should be good to go. But you have to watch as you're driving, and if you see any indication of the front end of the canoe wanting to rise, you make have to make some adjustments.

[RSBreth]

Like Al said - depends on the canoe and the truck. I've hauled a solo canoe (12') in the bed of a short-bed compact pickup (GMC Sonoma - S-10) right-side-up with the front of the canoe right behind the driver's side and the canoe angled out of the passenger side of the bed for about a decade. Works great, but you have to figure out your canoe and your truck.

[eric1978]

My solo goes right in the bed, right side up, diagonally. Sticks out maybe a foot or two past the tailgate. A few bungees and I'm good to go. This is my setup when I take the tandem...

But I prefer rollin' with a hillbillie whenever possible...

[jdmidwest]

Canoe in the bed of the truck, angled with the back to the inside passenger side out the back so it does not stick out in traffic, with the tailgate down and a red flag on it if it extends past 3 ft. It is not he best solution, and it will break down the canoe in the hinge point if done too much. Fill the bed portion with coolers and stuff to keep weight in it to keep from bouncing. Tie it in good at the cab and at both points where it sits on the tailgate.

I did this method many years when I owned a pickup, it served me fine. Be careful when you cross dips and make sure you don't drag the back off. If you are expecting a trip with a lot of rain, turn it upside down and transport the same way.

Racks, carriers, trailers are all better options. But the canoe can be carried this way too.

[Gavin]

A rack like AJ's is the way to go...unless you have someplace to store a trailer.

[hank franklin]

I've used foam blocks with no incidents for years. The key is just to get the straps tight. Been down I-44 many a trip with nary a wiggle (okay maybe one small wiggle). A rack is preferable for sure but the foam blocks are a fraction of the cost and treat me just fine. Main downside is you can scratch your truck with gunwales, thwarts etc touching down on top of cab when loading it. If you're proud of your truck then you probably have money to buy the rack. My truck is a beater and I think of the scratches like wrinkles or gray hairs. Give it character.

[Justin Spencer]

Like Al said - depends on the canoe and the truck. I've hauled a solo canoe (12') in the bed of a short-bed compact pickup (GMC Sonoma - S-10) right-side-up with the front of the canoe right behind the driver's side and the canoe angled out of the passenger side of the bed for about a decade. Works great, but you have to figure out your canoe and your truck.

+1 quick and easy, tie in corner, strap other end to tailgate cable and it won't slide.

[Chief Grey Bear]

My solo goes right in the bed, right side up, diagonally. Sticks out maybe a foot or two past the tailgate. A few bungees and I'm good to go. This is my setup when I take the tandem...

But I prefer rollin' with a hillbillie whenever possible...

Just curious as the the strapping of your rack???

At first I used the pads for the top of the cab, with a strap through the inside of the cab to keep them from moving and a rope tied to each side of the front bumper. For a rear rack, I built a simple one from 2X4s. It was very solid and stable, even on the interstate, but I shortly altered an old small jonboat trailer. Trailer is the best way to go, especially for my big canoe.

I am not a fan of red canoes but, I have to say, that is one very sharp looking canoe!!! Did you paint that yourself?? I like the silver on the bottom runners too. That craft just has the classic older color look to it.

[eric1978]

Just curious as the the strapping of your rack???

The two straps on the sides just keeps that rack from wobbling back and forth...pretty poorly designed. But you can't beat free...thanks KC! It's better than nothing, and keeps a lot of the pressure off the roof. The third strap down the middle holds the canoe to the rack. Two more straps in front to the tow hooks. Rock solid.

Ron's canoe is a beauty. I'd be too worried about damaging it to use it. I like plastic bathtubs that I don't think twice about beating the hell out of.

Remember this one? Whatever works! LOL

[MOPanfisher]

I hve hauled them on top with foam blocks and shoved into the bed of a pickup and rachet strapped in but never really liked it. If for no other reason that it get to be a game to arrange all your stuff so it doesn't get broken or damaged. I grabbed a pile of 2x4's and simply built one to fit my previous truck. Nothing more than a 2x4 frame that would just fit in the bed of the truck, 4 uprights and plenty of angled braces later poof a canoe rack. Problems turned out to be, that even strapped down tight the canoe tended to want to slide just a little bit, solution was easy a couple small wooden blocks on the cross members that just fit inside the canoe stopped if from sliding. The biggest pain turned out to be when my buddy helped me load the canoe after a float, he is several inches under 6' tall and couldn't get it up high enough to slide on. Normal height folks don't have a problem with it. Being bored after that building operation I built a horizontal rod rack as part of the canoe rack, so I can put a couple rods in it and keep it up off the bed of my truck and then throw tackle bags into the floor of the bed. It was just supposed to be "trial" and the real one I would weld up out of square tube, but it has worked so well I never replaced it. But for $200 or so to buy a prebuilt one I would just buy it and forget about it, really like the one that comes apart and stores in toolbox.!!