Custom painting lures

[MOsmallies]

2 hours ago, Fish24/7 said:

 

nice job on those baits guys !

this SPRO rk is somewhat similar, but the camera flash makes it look more yellow than it really is

i've got a few warts and spro I just finished too, when they're dry I'll post some pics

Darn... Now I need to place another order! This thread is killing me. We have some talented folks on this board!

[Guest]

3 hours ago, Flysmallie said:

I'll stick with automotive clear. Much easier to work with, doesn't yellow, doesn't need a drying wheel, dries fast. 

Can you elaborate on your auto clear?

Ive been watching YouTube videos using 2K clear in a can. Would that be suitable for lures? 

[Flysmallie]

24 minutes ago, TrophyFishR said:

Can you elaborate on your auto clear?

Ive been watching YouTube videos using 2K clear in a can. Would that be suitable for lures? 

I use standard urethane automotive clear. Has to be sprayed. Couple of coats is all you need. Hang it to dry. The fumes can be an issue which is why you should be using a respirator but to be honest if you are spraying any kind of paint or clear you should be using a respirator. It's not something you want to spray in your house but as long as you have good ventilation then it's not an issue. I've seen some of you state that you've painted but you have to wait until it warms up to clear. Not necessary with auto clear. Now I wouldn't paint a car with it when it was cold but I'm not worrying about something that small when it's cold. The key is to make sure that the item isn't cold itself.

I would be leery of anything in a aerosol. Unless it's one of the special ones that you activate right before using. 2K gets thrown around a lot but it stands for two component. That's hard to do in an aerosol, but not impossible. I would rather mix it with the activator myself and spray it out of an airbrush. 

You can also use an accelerator if you mix it yourself. That's going to speed up the dry time. I can clear a bait and have it dry and ready to fish in about 20 minutes. 

The biggest drawback is the upfront cost. It's probably cheaper in the long run but it's going to be expensive in the beginning because the quantities that you have to buy. 

[Guest]

I've heard of folks spraying 2K in a tent on the back porch. I don't want to spray it inside the garage. I wear a 3M respirator with charcoal filters & ive got a DIY spray booth with exhaust fan piped out the garage door. (Flex)

I feel like I need a full face mask to protect my eyes from the vapors too. 

[Fish24/7]

2 hours ago, Flysmallie said:

I can clear a bait and have it dry and ready to fish in about 20 minutes. 

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY   is this the stuff?? I may pick up a can just to try it .

 are you using  the automotive clear over acrylic paints?

would polyurethane clear work with copic markers?

this could really help me with turnaround time.

what do you recommend cleaning the gun with? I have some acetone and paint thinner?

there's several polyurethanes and it's a  little confusing to me lol

any additional info would be greatly appreciated too

thanks

 

[Guest]

Folks think painting is hard, but I find clear coats to be very finicky & much more important. I'm still searching for the silver bullet. 

[Flysmallie]

50 minutes ago, Fish24/7 said:

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY   is this the stuff?? I may pick up a can just to try it .

 are you using  the automotive clear over acrylic paints?

would polyurethane clear work with copic markers?

this could really help me with turnaround time.

what do you recommend cleaning the gun with? I have some acetone and paint thinner?

there's several polyurethanes and it's a  little confusing to me lol

any additional info would be greatly appreciated too

thanks

 

The urethane auto clears that I use have mostly been used over automotive paints. Acrylic, Urethane, Water Based. Yes it works over Copic and Createx. A good quality paint thinner works great for clean up. 

That aerosol is the good stuff. But it's pricey. And once you activate it you are going to need to use it up fairly quick. Probably not going to last but a few days. 

To me this is the simplest system there is. If you are frustrated by clearing a nicely painted bait then this is your answer. It's not going to give that thick epoxy look but it will look as good as a new finish on a car and it's pretty durable too. 

[dtrs5kprs]

Y'all are putting way too much effort into clear coating.

[Guest]

Dave, could you give a brief overview on the High Build? I really need something thats not so harsh on the eyes & lungs. 

I only use single coats of D2T & etex, so mulitple coats is not ideal because it drags out the process over several days.

Do you base coat then clear, then add detail & clear again? I typically prime, base coat & do finish work detail, then clear 8 baits at a time. 

I like the D2T with certain paints like the color shift that fish eyes the Etex. 

 

" Depending on the thickness of the finish and the room temperature, the rod should be rotated from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours. Flex Coat Finish will dry to the touch inapproximately 6 hours. Avoid contact with the finished wraps for 24 hours. You may wish to apply a thin second coat of finish at this time"

[Guest]

I remember somebody saying "airbrushes are like rabbits, they mulitply" 

Well thats the case for me. Both Iwatas .35mm & .5mm are 4-5 years old & I didnt clean them often enough. 

Now that I actually let them soak in airbrush cleaner & run the wire brush thru them, I cant get anything remotely close to "shooting paint" 

Soooooooooo, I will be buying another Iwata this week.