Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

I use power pro 10# with a floro leader 10# also works good for me no twist or kink.

Posted

Makes sense, I do miss fish with the mono sometimes and have in the past thought they just weren't being too aggressive. I like the longer rod idea too. Thanks.

Ya I think the braid line/soft floppy rod combo hits the "goldilocks" zone in terms of just enough rod play to let them eat the whole bait, but sturdy enough line so the hooks stick and they cant shake it. At least until someone shows me something that works better lol.

Posted

I use power pro 10# with a floro leader 10# also works good for me no twist or kink.

10/2 power pro or 18# lead core with a 14# flouro leader. I can get deep and I don't get broken off by big hybrids and blue cats....

Posted

Has anyone trolled with and without a fluoro leader and noticed a difference? I ask cuz while jigging on spinning gear a love a braid/fluoro leader but trolling im too lazy and tie braid to a snap swivel. That might be my next experiment when I go a crank draggin next.

Posted

Has anyone trolled with and without a fluoro leader and noticed a difference? I ask cuz while jigging on spinning gear a love a braid/fluoro leader but trolling im too lazy and tie braid to a snap swivel. That might be my next experiment when I go a crank draggin next.

Like you I hate tying leaders(especially with lead core) but I have tried without and flouro leaders catch more fish in clear water for sure. I use a double-uni with a cross lock with no swivel on the terminal end. I have started running the heavier leaders(14-17#) so I need to re-tie less due to fish abrasions, etc. I tune my cranks but occasionally get some twist due to a crossover event with a fish on; does not happen often but one time is more than enough with lead core...

Mike

Posted

For trolling crank baits, I generally use 18lb lead core line (Cabelas brand) with a flourocarbon leader. I attach the leader to the lead core line with a back to back uni-knot. I just use a snap to attach the crank bait. I give my cranks a quick test in the water to make sure they're in tune before I let them out. Watch the vibration on the rod tip, any changes and reel the crank in because it probably has junk on it. I don't remember having any problems with line twist. When I replace my lead core line, I'm going to try the sufix 832 advanced lead core line. I also use a metered braid on my bouncing rods, so I can drop it back in the zone real quick. I have also been experimenting with a trolling weight made by offshore tackle called a tadpole, targeting suspended fish with different presentations. I use line counter reels with Sufix metered braid for that, but I can't remember what pound it is. I bought it on sale at bass pro several years ago. All should read RPS's trolling article. Most of what I konw about trolling I have learned from his articles and posts along with time on the water with powerdive and three or four other Stockton walleye fishermen that unfortunately don't frequent this forum.

WM

Posted

I think the best trolling line I have seen used was something like.....ahem.......

C&R and tournament guys don't read this report........

Posted

I couldn't resist :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.