Trailer lights

[Stump bumper]

I know this is not a Beaver lake issue, but I just bought the second pair of trailer lights this year. I went with the Blazer led this time (first time to try LED). Something told me to go with a more expensive brand and maybe they won't blow out as quick. There was water damage inside the "sealed" area of the last two that went. I placed water tight sealant around the lens this time to try to keep more water out and coated the clear license plate lens with a clear sealant.

It is late in asking, but does anyone have a brand that has lasted years or a trick to get these things to last longer? Do you unhook your lights before launching? Please , any advice welcome.

 

 

[J-Doc]

I replaced my marker lights with Blazer I believe.  I have not had a problem at all.  The tail lights were replaced with LEDs within the first few weeks I received the boat.  I've had it 2yrs now this July and no issues so far.

[fishinwrench]

The biggest problems with trailer lights is maintaining a good ground connection, and the sudden temperature change that occurs when cold water hits a hot bulb.  It's all about PRESSURE.   When something inside a sealed housing heats up or cools off... the pressure changes and condensation builds up. And don't forget that a BULB is a "sealed housing" in itself.

"Sealed" housings keep water from rushing in and contacting the bulb, but they also keep moisture in that accelerates corrosion.  A dielectric grease on the bulb contacts and a housing that can breathe/drain/dry asap is really about the best you can do.  

The white wire in a trailer light harness shouldn't rely on the trailer frame for ground continuity....but almost all systems do.  You can greatly improve a trailer light system by extending the white wire from the plug directly to each fixture, and sealing all splices with liquid tape. 

Giving your lights 5-10 minutes to cool off before backing into the lake, after driving to the ramp in the dark, helps ALOT.  

[MOPanfisher]

Being a good hillbilly I solved most of my trailer light problems by parking the truck out at the shop and putting very short tack weld on the receiver, basically welding the insert to the receiver.  Short enough its easy to grind off to remove, but will certainly ground through nicely.  As for lights, I have never had one go out from use, from hitting things yes.  At work we tell/teach employees to unplug the lights before backing into the water, personally I have never unplugged them.  I have to replace the trailer lights at work every couple years from either damage or corrosion inside the lights.  I probably need to check mine at home at put some more grease on the contacts, they sell the tiny little pouches of lightbulb grease at most automotive supply places,  I have used 100% silicone spark plug grease, not real sure if it is the same stuff or not. 

[moguy1973]

I've wondered if I need to unplug my lights before backing into the water.  Thing about my truck is if I have it plugged in it disables the backup sensors.  If I unplug the trailer my backup sensors freak out and beep at me unless I manually turn them off.  Kind of a pain, but if it saves my light's longevity in the long run I might start unplugging them.

[zarraspook]

I have only replaced my trailer light once in the 18 years that I have had this boat/trailer (one each side)...

But, it takes me a good 10-12 minutes to ready the boat, once I'm at the lake ( boat tiedowns, motor toter, DRAIN PLUG, squeeze the primer bulb, mount two graphs, turn on power to boat and trolling motor, plug in trolling motor, get rods , tackle and life jackets out of the lockers, unhook safety and winch straps, ..)

I stop far enough back from the launch ramp that I'm not in the way of people launching....

[MOPanfisher]

I am more of the sort that has to clean stuff out of my boat before I can go to the lake.  Things tend to accumulate on it, from extra rods and tackle boxes to jackets and rain gear drying out from the last trip.  So what if it was over a month ago.

[Stump bumper]

24 minutes ago, zarraspook said:

I have only replaced my trailer light once in the 18 years that I have had this boat/trailer (one each side)...

But, it takes me a good 10-12 minutes to ready the boat, once I'm at the lake ( boat tiedowns, motor toter, DRAIN PLUG, squeeze the primer bulb, mount two graphs, turn on power to boat and trolling motor, plug in trolling motor, get rods , tackle and life jackets out of the lockers, unhook safety and winch straps, ..)

I stop far enough back from the launch ramp that I'm not in the way of people launching....

Maybe better made lights 18 years ago? I could have just replaced the two big bulbs, but with evidence of corrosion and the fact I just replaced them a couple months ago I decided on trying a different light all together. I am not launching in the dark and it takes me at least ten minutes to get ready also. I am hoping the LED hold up better than the last set, guess I am alone in blowing so many bulbs.

[David Unnerstall]

Back down in neutral...well to save wear on the brakes and transmission...and to minimize the time the brake lights are lit to keep them from getting hot.

 

[moguy1973]

4 hours ago, David Unnerstall said:

Back down in neutral...well to save wear on the brakes and transmission...and to minimize the time the brake lights are lit to keep them from getting hot.

 

I've also heard it helps back the boat in since you aren't pushing the boat backwards with the vehicle rather letting the weight of the boat back you in.