Ranger520vx Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 Helping a friend with his pontoon hasn't ran in 2 years. To start with only had fire on #1 cyl. every once in a while the other two would fire. So started running the DVA voltage outputs and found low output on stator intermittent output on timer base and no continuity on one cylinder through the power pack and diodes bad in rectifier. So replaced all those parts with CDI replacements and went ahead and replaced coils because the potting in them was cracked and falling apart. Got it back together and set the timing and it's running on all 3 cyls. and runs good for about 5-30 seconds then dies like you turn the key off. If you unhook the 2 yellow wires to the rectifier it will run forever checked the rectifier and all diodes check good. Anyone have any ideas I've just about ran out of ideas. Also cleaned all positive and ground wires and even tried a different battery. Appreciate any help I can get.
fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 Hook up a voltmeter to your battery, run the tilt/trim several times to draw the battery down to about 12.5 volts, start the motor and watch the voltmeter....it should climb to 13-14v and stabilize. If it doesn't then shut the motor down. If it does then keep watching it until the motor dies like you said it would. Any crazy voltage crap going on right before it died? If not, then disconnect the black/yellow wire from the power pack, start the motor and see if it still dies.....If it doesn't then your problem is a short to ground somewhere in the kill circuit (possibly a bad key switch, or kill switch) and you'll have to pull plug wires to kill the motor (DO NOT TOUCH THE BLACK/YELLOW LEADS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, cuz it will knock the piss out of you). Report back with your findings.
fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 Side note:. If by chance someone hooked up the battery backwards then your new rectifier is probably toast, regardless of what your diode test are showing. But.....that alone should not kill fire to all cylinders and cause the engine to die. dan hufferd 1
fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 Just for clarity and to help understand the system.....Your charging circuit and your ignition circuit are two totally separate systems.....kinda. The only thing that the two systems both share is a common ground. A bad rectifier or voltage regulator can dump AC voltage into the ground and THAT is the only way that the charging system can cause problems with ignition primary voltage. You can bench test this by hooking a voltmeter to the black/yellow wire and turning the key switch on and off several times. At no time should there by ANY voltage on the black/yellow wire. If there is then the key switch or regulator/rectifier is bad.
Ranger520vx Posted July 19, 2019 Author Posted July 19, 2019 Hooked meter to the battery got voltage down to 12.51 volts started the motor it got the voltage up to 12.70 volts before it died which was about 20 seconds got it to run a little longer with some throttle but still only 12.7 with no crazy voltage going on before it died. unhooked black and yellow kill wire and still died also checked for voltage on kill wire and there was none after working the switch several times and checking every time I worked it. Also another friend had another new rectifier put it on and no change. Unhooked the 2 yellow stator wires and it will run forever. Got me pulling my hair out and ain't got a lot to loose.
fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 Wow, this is a fun one. We are both gonna learn something here. Your CDI stator......are you sure it is the correct one? Gimme your model #
fshndoug Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 you better take the problem to Wrench.He can fix it
fishinwrench Posted July 19, 2019 Posted July 19, 2019 2 hours ago, Ranger520vx said: got it to run a little longer with some throttle I'm bugged by this. That would not be possible with ignition failure. Flysmallie 1
Ranger520vx Posted July 19, 2019 Author Posted July 19, 2019 I double checked the stator this morning got oem number from boats.net. the model number is E60TLESM and the CDI number is 173-4766.
Ranger520vx Posted July 19, 2019 Author Posted July 19, 2019 I have load tested the battery cables to the motor the load test is within 1volt of what the battery load tests at. Have voltage coming out of the stator on the yellow wires and have checked wiring with a wiring schematic. I was a diesel/gas mechanic for 17 years and help a lot of my friends with their boats but this thing is making me second guess my ability. Lol
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