MrGiggles

Well now I feel like a dummy. It was right there the whole time. Just goes to show that some of these Seloc manuals aren't worth crap. This is the flywheel. Right now it is set right on 23*. Things are making a little more sense now, the screw should be within normal range at 29*, or 27 like you said. Is there a reason why they recommend setting the throttle to that secondary pickup area? Seems to me that it would make no difference, the timing advance arm is against the stop in both positions. Thanks again for the help Wrench.

I screwed around with it a little more tonight before hitting the water. It does have .464 stamped on the flywheel. From what I understand, those numbers are only relevant to older motors that do not have a master spline, and mine does. The pointer is dead nuts on 0* when #1 is at TDC. I got it down to 23*, but the screw is bottomed out. The service manual says 23* is right, but there are also more timing marks after 23* that have MAX TIMING stamped above them, which is about where it was set before I messed with it. Do you know what the timing spec is on these triples? It runs well but seems a little low on WOT RPM. It maxes out at 5000, and with this prop it should be closer to 6000, unless my tach is lying. That motor looks about like the powerhead on my parts engine. Dunno what happened, but it must have made some noise when it let loose.

Got another quick question for you. I was trying to set the timing last night. Didn't bother to check the timing pointer (probably a mistake). Before I adjusted anything, it was way too far advanced. I'm pretty much out of adjustment at 25*, it should be 23, I think something is wrong. The service manual (which is one step above toilet paper IMO) goes through some complicated process of checking TDC with a dial indicator. The flywheel has a master spline so it can only go on one way. Is that procedure even necessary, or could I just use a screwdriver down the plug hole to verify that TDC aligns with 0* at the pointer? I don't want this thing to go kaboom after spending so much on it.

Success!

There is still a local pond close to me that has them in it. Just an old cattle pond. Have never caught anything else out of it but 8" bullheads. The little ones make excellent bait, from what I've read.

Nasty thermocline water, probably.

Got an extra Quicksilver stainless prop from a parts motor that I brought home yesterday. I have two already and don't need it. It has a couple small dings from use but is still in great shape. It's part #48-76228A4. 10 3/8 diameter 13 pitch, 3 blade. It's a 13 spline and will fit many Mercury motors, it came off of an 84 60hp 2 stroke. 70$ pickup, or I will ship it anywhere for 80$. I can meet if it's convenient as well.

Excellent. Any size to 'em?

Thanks. Kinda sucks, but nobody said boats were cheap. And I have put very little work in this motor since I've had it, I suppose it was about time. Say my switch box was good, would I be getting low voltage (close to what the stator is putting out) at the ignition coils? Assuming my understanding of the system is correct, the stator is the power generator, the trigger controls ignition events, and the switch box distributors power to each coil. I found a parts motor on FB for 50$ and brought it home. It's got a presumed good CDI trigger, and a possibly functioning switch box. The stator harness is totally rotten. I'll get a stator ordered and go from there.

Not getting anything to the coils. Trigger output is somewhere around 2.5v, but it keeps climbing the longer I crank it. If I held it long enough it may climb to 4 volts (the CDI spec), but I don't want to burn up my water pump, probably because the capacitors I'm using are larger than recommended. It does not change when disconnected.

I was able to rig up something with parts from Micro center. I was not able to find a single high voltage cap, but found a pair of 200v caps that I placed in series. The stator is reading very low, about 5 volts on both wires connected, and closer to 10 disconnected. The trigger was within spec at a little more than 1 volt when tested to engine ground, however when connected with the black/white (which I believe was the rotten wire I repaired earlier), the readings were low. Any thoughts Wrench?

Radioshack? Shoot, I didn't even think there was any of those left around. Is there still one in business somewhere? Used to be one in Bolivar, but they closed it a few years ago.

It's down about 5 feet last I knew, but is still about 12 feet over pool. It's dropping something like 4 inches a day at the current rate.

I know it. Unfortunately it's not looking like I'll be able to find a DVA locally, so I'll grab one on eBay. Even if the trigger was working, it needed to be replaced anyway because of the wire situation. Looked to me like it was sealed, so you can't get in there and solder a new wire onto the windings.

The rotten wire was on the trigger, not the stator. Unfortunately it was rotten all the way up, but I crimped a new piece on anyway for testing purposes. Still don't have any spark. Just from resistance testing, it's looking like the trigger, CDI says it should not have continuity to ground, but I am showing some resistance on all wires. I will order one and see what happens, since I need one anyway with the bad wire, I don't trust the repair long-term. Resistance on the stator was perfect, although that is not definitive.

Well that didn't last long. Now to find a DVA...

Lost spark on my Merc 60 last night too. Think I found the issue, rotten wire from the stator. We'll see though.

Crankbaits. 20ft, give or take. Main lake points primarily, ones with a gradual slope extending a long ways seem to be better.

Limit tonight, all trolling. They were picky. Only hit one bait, in one spot, going one direction. Smallie was on jig and worm. No big fish, just 16-18". Apologize for the blurry pics. Fingerprint on the lens.

Got the decals on, runs and sags fixed, and a coat of wax. Used a nib file for the runs, then wet sanded and buffed. Like they never happened. Got some wheels for the trailer too, facelift is pretty much done. Now the inside looks old and crappy.

Went after them again tonight. 1 keeper 3 short walleye, a few drum and a 2.5lb largemouth. 2 eyes on the jig and crawler, the other two pulling cranks. Water temps still hovering around 85. Lake is down at least 3 feet from where it was. Didn't stay late, around 8:15 it clouded over and the wind switched. I was wheels up soon after, didn't wanna deal with white caps after dark.

Makes me wonder how they did it. I can't hardly sleep if it's any warmer than 75.

Yep. 18hp should be 5/16. Here, farm supply stores have it way cheaper than Oreilly's and other parts stores. If the line that's on it has crimped clamps, just cut them with dikes, reuse the fittings, slip on your new hose, and replace them with worm drive clamps or zip ties.

I just use plain automotive fuel line. I probably wouldn't use it on an offshore rig with an enclosed bilge, but on most boats it will work just as well. I will never use that silver crap again.

Dang, I usually settle for a slice of pizza at Hannah's. Guess I've been missing out.