MrGiggles

During years like this when you find that 100 year old swamp oak loaded with acorns, while everything else is bare, you've got a honey hole on your hands.

I was going to get the flywheel off and get the rest of it pulled apart, but my puller is too small. I was tempted to get after it shadetree style, but don't really want to add a new flywheel to the parts bill.

I'll know more when I get the powerhead laying on the table and the piston out. I'm sure Mercury's software has an injector contribution test function that would allow you to check them (by energizing them for a few milliseconds and measuring the drop in fuel pressure), but about all I could do is rig them up on the motor and see how they spray. I pulled #4 out of the rail and there isn't anything obviously wrong with it. Leakdown test showed all of the leakage going into the crankcase, not through the valves.

You want to share your process? I always field dress immediately when possible, get it hung up hide-on for few days (indoors out of the sun) when temps allow. Even still, some just don't turn out well.

It was cheap enough that I could put those on Ebay and make a little. Any idea what torched #4?

Burger is always medium well. Medium rare for everything else.

I haven't really figured venison out. Some is very mild and tasty, some is so metallic and gamey that I can't hardly stand it, just cooking it stinks up the house. I process all deer the same way, doesn't really make any sense to me. I will eat the backstraps by themselves, the butt roasts make good jerky, the rest can go into the grinder as far as I'm concerned.

Started off by verifying BPS's diagnosis. Compression test showed 175, 175, 175, and 60. Borescope down #4 showed cylinder damage, to what extent wasn't readily apparent. So I got it all stripped, powerhead is still sitting on the leg but everything is undone to lift it off when the time comes. Kept looking for the head bolts until I realized the girdle bolts are like 18" long and secure the head from the bottom. The bores are magnetic, so the block has liners. In theory a quick hone to knock the glaze off and a new piston would put it back in service, if the bottom end is decent. The cam bearings and top end were beautiful. The scuffing in the cylinder is very, very minor. There is also the cause of this mess in the first place, which I'm not sure of. #4 must have been really lean to break up the piston like that. Plugged injector? When I get some more time, I'll yank the flywheel off and pull the crank girdle, and push the #4 piston out of the bottom and see what the bearings look like. Regardless, I think the powerhead is coming off, since I think it would be next to impossible to get everything timed right as-is.

The adventure continues, thanks Mike. Go ahead and get it outta your system, Wrench.

I pulled some cranks around last night. Ended up with 6 short walleye and 1 bass in a couple hours. They were pretty scattered, but I did pin four in one spot. Running ~100ft of line out, no weight, Flicker Shad 7s, black/chart and blue tiger were the ticket today. Running 13-14ft down in 16-21 ft.

Ditto. Trim down, hammer down if you're going against the waves. Opposite if you're going with them.

I hear with a drone you can get the bird's eye view of Springfield's finest.

Went to Denver in January 2019. I'm not really a city person but it was fun nonetheless. Rented some snowmobiles and rode around the mountains in Winter Park. Good times. It is definitely expensive.. If I remember right dinner for two at a steakhouse was well over $100, no alcohol either.

Wonder if you could use some nylon guitar string or piano wire and rig some up Richard Gene style.

Think they are getting hung by the hook? Where I fish the ned, I think I lose them because they get caught in the rocks, not because the hook is getting snagged. Weedless crappie jigs are the best thing ever for brushpiles though.

Pretty much what Wrench posted, get a test light and start pokin'. Start at the trailer plug. If nothing there, check the fuses. Most newer vehicles have separate fuses for the trailer circuit (if it has the factory tow package) so a short in the trailer won't kill the lights on the vehicle as well. That is the year range of Chryslers with TIPM problems, hopefully that is not your issue but it could be.

I peaked early. Drank like a fish my senior year of high school. That summer was fun, wouldn't trade those memories for anything. Once I turned 21, the luster kind of wore off.

I'm not that crazy about them either. The one in Springfield is just a tourist trap. The prices for weights and jigs and stuff are super high too. But, they carry a lot of stuff that you can't get anywhere else. If anyone ever goes through Clinton, I highly recommend Everharts.

Times change. Could've ordered it on your phone in minutes and had them bring it to your car when you got there.

They have some pictures here. https://www.russellmarineproducts.com/product-p/7103041-hum.htm My buddy has had it rigged on a pole and on his Ultrex. He didn't like the pole because it was too much fiddling, but keeping the TM aimed is a fight too. Just depends on how you like to fish. I think I would like it best on a pole that is attached to the TM, so they stow and deploy together, but the transducer is aimed independently.

8 pounds? Surely that can't be right. The Mega live transducer looks about the same size as Garmin's.

My 93SV is on the console, so I just have a pole rigged up that I can drop over the side of the boat and fish from the helm. Not the best, but I'm waiting for another deal on a 93SV so I can mount it up front. I have a Terrova, so I either just spot lock, or drive it with the remote. Generally I will pull up to a spot, drop the trolling motor and LIvescope, then start picking it apart. If I'm not seeing fish in the vicinity then I will start moving around, checking the whole area. If I was better at reading and setting up SI, I would scan it with that first, drop a waypoint on areas of interest, and come back to them with LS, but I'm not that good with it. I jigged up several walleyes out of 45 feet this spring on Stockton, right on the bottom. The only time Livescope won't help you with crappie is in the spring when they're really shallow. I don't know about what Humminbird is coming up with, but the LS transducer is hardly any heavier than the big UHD SI transducers that people have been strapping on trolling motors for years, it's just a little bulkier. I don't see why they weight would be an issue. The bigger problem with that Ulterra is cable management, since the head can turn around and around. My Terrova will destroy a transducer cable in no time.

I will usually park on the tip of a point/hump, or along the sides on the slope. Usually you can see fish sliding up and down the drop off, or just off bottom not far away. I will usually drop my jig to within a few inches of the bottom. Walleyes will usually materialize off of the bottom and act very aggressively, sometimes hitting the jig on the drop. One thing that Livescope really works well at is getting the perspective of where you are along a piece of structure, you can easily see how far down you are in a drop off, where the tip of a point is, etc., where 2D only gives you a snapshot of the sonar cone and needs to be paired with maps to give you any perspective. Say that you are looking for a particular rock pile or a boulder (the spot on the spot) on a point, it is very easy to zero in on with Livescope, where you would otherwise be relying on a waypoint, which is not very accurate, or hovering right over the top of it. Same goes for fishing brushpiles for crappie, use the waypoint to get you close, LS allows you to stay back a ways but still keep your perspective without using market buoys or any of that BS.

I bought Livescope back in March when they still had the rebate going. Since I already had a 93SV capable of running it, it wasn't a huge investment. It is nice for jigging crappie off of brush piles. As for the bigger fish, I do use it for walleyes and accidental bass. Whites too. Usually vertical fishing a soft plastic or crawler. I have had difficulty getting more than 10-15 feet of clear forward view, not sure what the deal is with that. I can't wait to use it this winter, spooning in big schools of shad.

Those are for sure better than the ones with a steel pan.. I had some crafty field mice that got away with the bait several times without setting off the trap. I took a pair of pliers and squished in the tab that holds the rod a little bit, making the trigger really light. Had to be really careful setting them, but if they so much as laid a whisker on it, lights out. Ol' Fievel didn't get away with anymore free meals.