MrGiggles

Easiest would probably be Masters, Cedar Ridge, or Crabtree. Take 13 to Bolivar, go west on 32. Cedar Ridge and Masters are just past Fair play and Crabtree is a few miles up from there. Greenfield is just a few minutes closer.

Only made it on Saturday afternoon. One short and what I believe was another that I only caught a glimpse of. The crappie were cooperating much better, brought a few of those home for dinner. Pulling crankbaits, fooled around with BBs some too, but after getting hung for the third time and breaking a rod I went back to cranking. For me, they always seems to slow down some when a full moon is near, I have not been having nearly as much success as I was 2-3 weeks ago. This was on a flat, little sac arm. 16-20 feet.

Powertech SWC3R13PM70 3 blade prop for sale. Stainless, 13 pitch, 10.5 diameter. Comes with a 13 spline Mercury hub kit, but will likely fit many others with a different one. There is not a ding or scratch on it, it is like new. 120$ pickup or 135$ shipped anywhere. I make regular trips to Springfield for school.

Stall mats work pretty well, and they quiet things down a bunch. Not the lightest or cheapest thing out there though.

Usually I'm not fast enough and the fish is gone by the time I get a bait down there, or of they do stick around, they'll come up, sniff it, and take off. Every once in a while it does work for me, wstching a fish come up and hammer your bait on the graph is better than any drug. I usually take everything he makes with a grain of salt, since he's in remote Canada a lot of times. It ain't that easy here, at least that's what I tell myself to feel better.

I did the same thing on mine. Didn't pay any attention when I put them on. As long as they're legible from a distance, that's all that matters. Some of the more nosey WPs may use it as an excuse to check me out, but I generally don't have anything to hide. If you do want to redo it, you can go to the DMV and get new decals for 11$.

Got whooped again by the walleyes. Goose egg. Was running bottom bouncers for a couple hours with nothing but a drum.and bass. I switched over to cranks and found these. Been a while.

Excellent. Points or flats? Maybe that's why I've been striking out, been fishing too deep. I guess that kinda makes sense, was catching them pretty good when the water was high, but haven't done well since they dropped it. They haven't moved at all, but I did, thinking they moved deeper.

It is pretty clear, probably 3-4ft visibility. I'm not a bass Fisher so I cant comment on that.

I could barely find them at all. Went there last night for the first time in over a month. Found some dinks in 18-20 feet on brush, and one keeper trolling in 20ft. There is shad everywhere. Seems hard to get them to focus on a bait in those conditions.

Rooster tails will be excellent for whites here in a couple weeks once they start grouping up and chasing shad. On Stockton, try the flats northeast of the island by Masters. You usually only get about a 30 minute window before dark, but you can easily catch a limit in that time when conditions are right. There are several brush piles in and around Masters cove, and I've caught more smallies around there than anywhere else on the lake. Stockton is always hit or miss, unless you have a lot of prior experience (have an idea where the fish are and when), you have to cover a lot of water. Crappie are really scattered right now and hardly anybody is catching them, it will get better once the water cools off and they start to group together on brush piles. One thing to try is trolling deep diving cranks like Shad raps or Flicker shads. Boring as heck but you can cover a lot of water and get into some great multi-species action. I've seen several reports from guys in kayaks doing it successfully.

Seems like the bite has slowed down a lot from when they first started pulling water. Fished Friday and today with only one 15" walleye and a few other species. Nothing really noteworthy. Caught some bait too. Boat traffic was insane. Crabtree ramp was full at some point today.

I don't know if I am. Trolled around some on Friday, got hung up more times in one afternoon than I have all year. Where'd all the dang water go?

Well now I feel like a dummy. It was right there the whole time. Just goes to show that some of these Seloc manuals aren't worth crap. This is the flywheel. Right now it is set right on 23*. Things are making a little more sense now, the screw should be within normal range at 29*, or 27 like you said. Is there a reason why they recommend setting the throttle to that secondary pickup area? Seems to me that it would make no difference, the timing advance arm is against the stop in both positions. Thanks again for the help Wrench.

I screwed around with it a little more tonight before hitting the water. It does have .464 stamped on the flywheel. From what I understand, those numbers are only relevant to older motors that do not have a master spline, and mine does. The pointer is dead nuts on 0* when #1 is at TDC. I got it down to 23*, but the screw is bottomed out. The service manual says 23* is right, but there are also more timing marks after 23* that have MAX TIMING stamped above them, which is about where it was set before I messed with it. Do you know what the timing spec is on these triples? It runs well but seems a little low on WOT RPM. It maxes out at 5000, and with this prop it should be closer to 6000, unless my tach is lying. That motor looks about like the powerhead on my parts engine. Dunno what happened, but it must have made some noise when it let loose.

Got another quick question for you. I was trying to set the timing last night. Didn't bother to check the timing pointer (probably a mistake). Before I adjusted anything, it was way too far advanced. I'm pretty much out of adjustment at 25*, it should be 23, I think something is wrong. The service manual (which is one step above toilet paper IMO) goes through some complicated process of checking TDC with a dial indicator. The flywheel has a master spline so it can only go on one way. Is that procedure even necessary, or could I just use a screwdriver down the plug hole to verify that TDC aligns with 0* at the pointer? I don't want this thing to go kaboom after spending so much on it.

Success!

There is still a local pond close to me that has them in it. Just an old cattle pond. Have never caught anything else out of it but 8" bullheads. The little ones make excellent bait, from what I've read.

Nasty thermocline water, probably.

Got an extra Quicksilver stainless prop from a parts motor that I brought home yesterday. I have two already and don't need it. It has a couple small dings from use but is still in great shape. It's part #48-76228A4. 10 3/8 diameter 13 pitch, 3 blade. It's a 13 spline and will fit many Mercury motors, it came off of an 84 60hp 2 stroke. 70$ pickup, or I will ship it anywhere for 80$. I can meet if it's convenient as well.

Excellent. Any size to 'em?

Thanks. Kinda sucks, but nobody said boats were cheap. And I have put very little work in this motor since I've had it, I suppose it was about time. Say my switch box was good, would I be getting low voltage (close to what the stator is putting out) at the ignition coils? Assuming my understanding of the system is correct, the stator is the power generator, the trigger controls ignition events, and the switch box distributors power to each coil. I found a parts motor on FB for 50$ and brought it home. It's got a presumed good CDI trigger, and a possibly functioning switch box. The stator harness is totally rotten. I'll get a stator ordered and go from there.

Not getting anything to the coils. Trigger output is somewhere around 2.5v, but it keeps climbing the longer I crank it. If I held it long enough it may climb to 4 volts (the CDI spec), but I don't want to burn up my water pump, probably because the capacitors I'm using are larger than recommended. It does not change when disconnected.

I was able to rig up something with parts from Micro center. I was not able to find a single high voltage cap, but found a pair of 200v caps that I placed in series. The stator is reading very low, about 5 volts on both wires connected, and closer to 10 disconnected. The trigger was within spec at a little more than 1 volt when tested to engine ground, however when connected with the black/white (which I believe was the rotten wire I repaired earlier), the readings were low. Any thoughts Wrench?

Radioshack? Shoot, I didn't even think there was any of those left around. Is there still one in business somewhere? Used to be one in Bolivar, but they closed it a few years ago.