tjm

Has anyone actually seen or know of the wanton waste reg being enforced?

"Sweetheart" was model name for one grade of Wright & McGill rods back when, and they may still use it. But the FF856 rods are on eBay almost all the time, usually sell between $75-175 depending on condition and who is watching, with the ones in need of repair at ~$40. But, the recent USPS change in shipping rates took average postage on two piece rods from ~$15 up to ~$40 plus insurance. And be sure to ask the seller to ship in PVC pipe because the plastic storage tubes are fragile as egg shells. I've received three crushed Cortland rods and am still looking for one like I had way back when.

Since I'm far from being an expert, if you are going to become interested in old fiberglass, I'll toss out some names of the better manufacturers, as far as I can recall without looking stuff up. Companies that started building fiberglass rods at almost the same time as Shakespeare, immediately after the war, was NARMCO Conolon, maker of the first hollow 'glass rods, later sold to Garcia, and Harnell and shortly afterwards, several of the key Conolon employees left NARMCO to start their own company building rods under the name Sillaflex which was later sold to Browning. Other notable early rod makers were Phillipson, J.K.Fisher (also as "3 Jays"), St Croix and Wright & McGill (later as Eagle Claw) (the fish hook company bought the Granger bamboo rod company). Fenwick started '52 using Grizzly blanks and later absorbed Grizzly (and owner Don Green who later started Sage) By the mid '50s there were a couple dozen manufactures and the process well enough know that there weren't any really bad rods, although Bill Phillipson, John Harrington (Harnell) and Joe Fisher stand out as the better designers, I think. On the W&M (Eagle Claw) rods I like the metal ferruled brown rods that I've used, but I have no use for of the yellow glass to glass W&M/Eagle Claw or any butt over tip rod. Butt over tip ferrules were a cheap way to imitate Fenwick's patented tip over butt and I've never seen one that fitted properly. The Berkeley Parametrics have a following, but I only know about them from reading. Abercrombie & Fitch as well as all the early (pre-1974?) Orvis 'glass fly rods were made by Phillipson, and they all look like Phillipsons. I believe Shakespeare supplied the first run or two of Orvis graphite rods and possibly helped them set up their own plastic rod shop. Although I started with and used 9' fiberglass for several years, today I try to keep the 'glass to less than 8'6", probably at 8' I like carbon and 'glass about equally, but getting shorter than that carbon becomes too stiff and taking 'glass longer than 8' it starts getting tiresomely heavy. My favorite 'glass rods are 7'6"-8'3". But that's bound be different wit every user. On the metal ferrules, I recommend cleaning them with Q-tips and solvent like mineral spirits or isopropyl before fully assembling them, to prevent sticking them. And I recommend not to ever twist a metal ferrule during the assembly or disassembly to prevent damage, straight in and straight out. If kept very clean, I don't think metal ferrules need or benefit from any lubricant. Actually I use isopropyl to clean the entire rod except the cork, Soft Scrub on a soft rag will clean cork quickly. I like to use MinWax Finishing Wax on the cork after cleaning. Other people would say to leave the "patina" on the cork. Should you really want to research and collect, or find and resale old rods, fiberglassflyrodders.com is the place to find all the 'glass info from real experts and collectors. And clasicflyrodforum.com is the place to learn about bamboo from experts. Keys for ID are reel seats, winding checks, and ferrules as many companies used in-house hardware.

The prices you're quoting makes me want to go shopping where you do.

Yes all the Wonderods were heavy, even when compared to other '50s rods, but rods were almost all lighter in the '60s and by the '70s some 'glass rods were in the weight range of some graphite rods. But I always mention how that a pint beverage weighs a full pound and most that wimp out with a 5oz rod can hoist pints all day. Any fishable fly rod is a bargain at $20 in today's dollars. I think that one would be worth it as a project rod. I think it's St Croix made rod from the early '60s. The line markings show both #6 and HDH, so after the 1960 standard was set, but soon enough after that the letter designations were still in use. The winding check looks like St Croix. Sears bought rods and tackle from almost everybody that made the stuff but St. Croix is said to have shipped them 100,000 rods per year. St Croix was also a big supplier for Cortland back then and sold some to Herter's, although Herters got most of their rods from True Temper/Montague, St Croix sold many times more trade rods than they sold under the St. Croix name. I'm guessing you'll like that best with for overhead casting with WF5F, and a spring / pawl reel. Or a smaller modern reel. To stay with Martin the "tuna cans" MG3, MG 60-63 etc. would, I think, be about right, I have several Sal Tout 1554 reels that I would use. I'd also use a Medalist 1494. Based on the longer St Croix rods I've used it should be a great roll casting rod with a #6 or 7 line. And the 6'6" length is ideal for places like Crane or RRSP, any smaller streams or streams with full canopy. You won't like that short rod where you need to mend a lot though. My only 6'6" rod is a Phillipson #6 from roughly the same period and is a very nice rod at <60', with my mediocre casting, but it doesn't mend very well.

Can't compare weight of an auto to a single action reel from today or from 1940. My lightest single action reel is a prewar SalTrout at about 4oz., I have no idea what modern reels weigh. The majority of vintage reels run 4.5-6.5oz. I think. All automatic reels are very heavy because that strong mainspring is heavy, but the OK I have is way lighter than the newest in time auto I have, which is Pflueger from the early 2000s, the Pflueger does have greater capacity though. The old reels were designed around level silk fly lines and 35' casting. The last guy I saw fishing one had it loaded with 20# mono and back in when I was a kid many autos were filled with casting braid (Dacron?) for tossing crawdads. Those reels aren't meant to take up line against the fish either, they were used to keep the stripped in line out of the way, and a fish making a long hard run would either come to the and of the line or overwind the spring and break the tippet, the guys needed fish fighting skills and the ability to run in the water. The reels of that time really only held fly line during the excursion, the silk line was removed and dried at the end of the day. It's kinda neat to weigh the reel naked and weigh it again with a 1/4 mile of backing and a full DT line. Surprising how much backing adds.

I've seen a tree twisted to right before breaking off and nearby one twisted to the left, while others were just bent over straight and the woods surrounding the area looking like a gentle rain had passed. Weird stuff.

Microburst, something I don't recall hearing of, but I've seen their results and wondered what kind of wind did that.

yeah, or just let out 5' more line, the active mass just keeps increasing throughout the body length. There never has been an accepted way to rate fly rods to line weights by measuring or in any objective way, the way that fly rods are rated is some in house "expert caster" tries the completed prototype with a few different lines and says "I like this rod best with a #4, but I think an average caster might like it best with a #6 so we will rate it #5", or something along that line. I once read a long article by a retired rod rating caster for a big manufacturer and that was the gist of it. I think that most vintage rods were "rated" with 30-40' casts in mind, for the eastern trout crowd, but in the '80s manufacturers switched to rating the rods for the big western rivers as the FF community became more travel orientated. I've read that on the rivers like Idaho's Silver Creek and many Montana streams that the average dry fly casts are over 50', so the modern rod ratings are tuned more to 50-60' casts and seem to me to be very under rated at 20-30'. I generally ignore what it says on the rod and start them all off at #7 and go up or down from there. Generally I end up fishing graphite rods with heavier than rated lines and 'glass rods with lighter than rated lines, also tend to go a line weight or two lighter when overhead casting than when roll casting, but that's all personal preference. I've successfully fished #9 lines on #5 rods and #4 lines on #7 rods and many other combos. With my poor casting quite a lot of older rods run out of fizz at ~40' regardless of line weight. @BilletHeadShakespeare also made those automatic reels if you want to match reel and rod. The "OK" comes to mind. This page might help you (I have too many bookmarks)- https://wiki.fiberglassflyrodders.com/wiki/Shakespeare And as side note I read that the Shakespeare date code applied to the Pflueger Medalist reels in the "DA", "CJ" & "AK" suffixes to the model numbers, designating year of moving production to Ar., Japan, and China. Shakespeare was likely the very first fiberglass rod manufacturer, although three early rod producers started close in time by people who had all worked for the same aircraft company during the war, The early Shakespeare rods were built around a balsa-wood mandrel that was left in them, making them a bit heavier than hollow 'glass rods. My long ago FF mentor used an early 9' Shakespeare with DT9F line and was the only guy I ever saw roll cast to the backing regularly. We were fishing still water trout that very rarely came within 50', using midges and the steep banks prevented any back cast so he had become very good at his particular cast. But, because I could never match his reach, I thought my rod was defective, as month long fly rod user I had no real notion, so one day I asked him to try my rod to see if something could be improved, and sure enough after a swish or three to left and right he left two turns of line on my reel and and within a few seconds had a trout on. As he slipped the trout into his creel, he said to me "there's nothing wrong with that rod son, you just need to learn how to cast", I got better under his guidance but I never did get close to his distance. I like my Phillipson rods and a couple of the early Fenwicks better than most Vintage "glass.

So, since I don't know how much you guys know, not sure how much I know, and I'm not very good at organizing my thoughts, I'll start way back and blunder through a line weight explanation as I understand it. Remembering that everything changed as a result of WW2, but industrial inventions and innovations changed the most. I'll try to establish a bit of background. The old line ratings and the new don't cross over exactly, the letter sizes were diameter of braided silk line and modern line sizes are based on weight of 30' of line, so any conversion can only be an approximation. Up until WW2 all fly lines were braided silk and thus a given volume of line would always weigh the same. A given diameter and a given length always resulting in a known weight. Just prior to, during and just after WW2 the first synthetic fibers were discovered or invented and in the years following the war these synthetics were used in braided fly lines, and because the synthetic fibers have different mass than silk (and from other synthetic fibers) the resulting lines of any diameter would vary widely in weight for any given length. Then in 1953 Cortland added a plastic coating to a braided nylon core and made the 333 line. It's also kinda important to recall that any line taper was done by adding or removing threads from the line during the actual braiding process. Somewhere around 1960 Leo Martuch founder of SA invented a way to taper the plastic coating and changed the industry again. But, in 1959 the line manufacturers in the USA decided that a standard line measure was needed. Representatives of the five line companies (of which only Cortland still makes fly lines) spent a few months coming up with the AFTMA line standards that we call AFFTA standard. Basically the letter system went from A to I in 0.005" increments, with A=0.060" and I=0.020", so the most common used line C=0.050" and the small end of the taper common on that H=0.025" - HCH would designate a double taper, made that way in silk so that at mid day you could reverse the line and have a dry line to fish instead of a soggy one. So, to solve the varying weight problem a system was established designating the total mass of the first 30' of line (disregarding any level line at the tip) - 30' was to accommodate the "Shooting Heads" that Sunset line made for west coast users. I tend to remember that "A"= #9 and count down from there, but the conversion is always approximate and most anglers used level line, tapers were dry fly lines. About as good as any chart to convert with- http://flyanglersonline.com/features/bamboo/silklineconversionchart.gif On the Wonderods you may find the model and date code on the reel seat or locking ring, the date code is the three letter designation FCL translating to Nov 1958. The 7'9' rod was likely a D, HDH ~#6 I fish some of my 'glass rods with lighter lines than they are rated for but any fly rod can work with multiple line weights, every time we extend the line 4-5' the line mass has gone up a line weight. So at 50' a #5 line has the mass rated to #9. With your rod I'd probably use the #5 but you did mention that you couldn't feel the rod loading and that indicates a heavier line needed perhaps. 'Glass rods because of their greater weight seem to bend/load under any movement even without the line. They do usually like a much longer and somewhat slower stroke than carbon rods, but it sounds like you adapted. More later if I think of it, after rereading this. About typed out.

I've been using "vintage fly rods" since '76, but never fished a Shakespeare. My preference in 'glass is 7.5' 6/7wt. (HDH-HCH). I'm kinda surprised that your rod fit a #5. (HEH) as that was ultra light back then, usually in 6'6" or 7', and fairly uncommon. Even the rods that I bought new are vintage now. The automatic reels were the most common I saw back in 50-60s and almost every fly rod user used live bait. It wasn't until after I was out of the Navy in the mid '70s that I ever saw an actual fly fisher. I always warn people about the autos, to be sure and release the spring after puling a few feet of line out the tiptop, otherwise the reel can suck the fly right through a couple of guides bringing the broken tip with it.

I don't think they have changed anything, if the Maxima you had was Ultragreen it should be the same. But if the Maxima you had was Chameleon or Clear, the Ultragreen will be limper and softer. I've used Chameleon (brown) for decades as fly fishing leader (and on spinning reels back when I used them) because I like the abrasion resistance and stiffness of it and when I once bought Ultragreen by accident I discovered they are very different products. Clear is somewhere between Chameleon and Ultragreen in stiffness and abrasion resistance.

Have had the Park Service Lifetime pass for years and we rarely use them, but you can either display in a hang tag from the mirror as you mentioned or lay it on the dash with the signature side up. That happens to be the barcode side as well, so my guess is they can scan it through the window. We got ours at the National Fish Hatchery. The inter-agency pass does not cover any thing except entrance though, if there is a camping fee, boat ramp fee, parking fee, or a concessionaire fee, those have to paid separately, or at least that is my recollection. For motorcycles and jeeps they have decals that serve as vehicle displays.

Only a few Walmarts, and they run out of goods every day; the scavengers will recognize that there are thousands of houses with supplies just waiting to be collected. Comparing Covid and a total grid loss is kinda a peaches and mulberry thing, not too much in common.

I agree that the city screwed that stream with the clearing they did to accommodate the frisbee golf and my source says MDC did argue with them about that. The new bridge construction didn't help trout any either. But I have caught trout there long after opening day and through out the winter months. Last time was around the end of June or beginning of July, I think, and the big fish that day looked to have been in stream for a year perhaps, guessing from size and color. IMO, the only sections left with really adequate shade are where the private land joins the park. If it weren't that so many springs feed it the stream would be way to warm for trout. Looking at the condition of the ADA accesses, though, I'd say MDC doesn't show a lot of interest in the fishery, but knowing they have no input into the stream management could do that. The numbers of fish stockings I've been told of and the small numbers of trout in the stream following those stocking days hint that perhaps the fish are going someplace else. I still enjoy an hour or so in the less trafficked sections a couple times a month, and in the early season I've met guys there from Ar & Ok that said they had caught several. I don't really think of trout in the hot part of summer though and the day I caught that last trout I was exploring for rock bass that I've been told occupy the deeper pools. The stream will never be a premier trout stream simply due to the park traffic, numbers of swimmers small size of the stream. As far as the sub-forum goes, I never look at those as a rule and only read the "Unread Content" page, and judging by the number of new topics there it would look like no sub- forums are needed. It's very rare that I make trip reports, because I never manage to get pictures.

Better call now and get their current addresses because phones won't work when the grid goes down.

It doesn't take 18 months to starve to death, I think I read that the Russians turned to cannibalism in a few winter weeks during the wars. I suspect that the deaths will peak in the first month. Body disposal problems will make the cities unpleasant to stay in, even though they probably have more real survival resources than the country. Think of all edible pets. Alternatives for fuel supply - the neighbors furniture, then their houses, insulation from the phone lines, car tires ect. We can't count on things like forest wood for fuel though because without power there will be no fuel for chainsaws nor for the trucks to haul it. When I was selling fire wood my customers burned an average of 8-12 tons per winter while using electricity as their built in heat. That's lot of hand saw work. Best to lay up a thousand tons or so in a dry place in preparation.

Y'all should try an experiment on your next vacation, live entirely with out electricity or things produced by electricity like ice. Can 40 quarts of tomatoes (or similar, because you'll need to do that with all the perishable vegetables and fruits.) with spring/creek water and wood fire.

doesn't matter if two or twelve, the meat will either be eaten or spoil in a few days unless you own a salt mine- and how much forage is there on an acre of glade? or a section of fesque? what is there to eat in a fallow field? We lived pretty close to the land before REA came through and it takes a bit more to get by than what fits in a bug out bag.

The cash will be as useless the debit cards, it has no basis in anything real so is essentially play money like that used in Monopoly, it might work for a few days before the people catch on, though. If trying to live off the land in the Ozarks you'll need an entire county, because wild game doesn't reproduce and grow as fast as one family can eat it. The best way forward is to be the toughest armed pirate in your chosen county and take it all from everyone else. It'll take about 150 pounds of dry staples per person month if you outfit like an old time prospector or trapper. and you'll need those staples in stock for at least a few years. If you add in canned meat, double the weight and if you include some canned vegetables perhaps quadruple it. The cost of the long term storage facility and monitoring/maintenance/rotation of the supplies will put it beyond the means of almost all of us, so nope most of us are not prepared regardless what we may think.

" Danville and Uni. " An article that kinda explains thread- https://www.theessentialfly.com/blog/fly-tying-threads-size-comparison-charts.html Brand names don't matter, because each brand has many threads. Key things are the material, nylon, polyester, silk, kevlar, GSP, whatever etc and the thickness as well as strength. Ought thickness 3/0, 6/0 8/0) applies only within the brand as a comparison, and not from brand to brand as there is no standard, denier applies only in the same material because it is a weight to length ratio and some fibers are heavier or lighter than others. We could write a book or two about thread choices, but, the take away is you can tie flies with absolutely any thread you have as long as you can secure the material without breaking the thread. 6/0 Fly Master from Danville is one of my "choice" threads, however I use rod winding threads, various sewing threads, unraveled embroidery floss, fishing line and some other threads depending on the day or fly. Most of my threads were bought in the '80s and no longer have stickers on them, so I grab a color and tighten the thread wraps on a bare hook until I break the thread and after doing that a couple of times I know how much tension I can apply with that thread, (I like to keep thread very tight as in "just before it breaks" tight) As a rule I probably use slightly larger diameter threads than the YouTube tyers and make ten times fewer wraps. I generally prefer nylon over other materials, but they all work.

Yes, the kids showed more imagination than most cheaters. But I think Mocarp is correct in that most any contest with money as the reward will generate cheaters. The obvious solution for preventing tourney cheating is to take away the money. So, my question is; does Texas have a law against cheating in a tournament, or are the only laws that would be enforceable those pertaining to daily and possession limits and/or method of catch? I guess, too, that I am surprised that minors are allowed to participate in money tournaments.

My foam terrestrials are all simple rubber legged beetles. Since terrestrials are accidental food for fish, road kill essentially, I don't think the fish are selective about them. Instructions that approximate my style - here and here. I often don't even make an underbody, just tie the foam tightly to shank from tie in point to bend, tie in legs and fold foam to front and tie down. I'm not convinced that color of foam matters either, as long as I can see it.

that has been my take on all the craft furs and faux furs that I've tried. Still a lot of people use the stuff and it looks OK dry.

yep, I knew. Micheal's & Joann are also sources for fishing stuff. Hobby Lobby is where I get "Bonnie" polyolefin macrame cord which combs out to long thin fibers that I like in streamers and also "satin" embroidery floss for bodies. At one of those stores I got a skein of metallic piping that would probably tie a zillion minnow bodies for about the cost of a yard or two from the fly shop. What could you use "Iridescent Mylar tissue" wrap for? I haven't used it but stumbled across an ad that made me think shell backs. "Aleene's Flexible Stretchable" is pretty good for a few uses. It's kinda funny that I've spent ten times more fishing money at these stores than at Cabela's or BPS.