tjm

Doesn't have to be a separate act of congress either, add it onto any other bill that is sure to be passed as an amendment. It'll be passed and signed before the public even hears about it. Trade that for a vote to build a bridge or a highway in some other state. Everybody shares the pork.

It certainly keeps the idea that the power company is trying to correct the problem in the news. That in itself makes it successful from their viewpoint. I doubt that the reward program was ever intended to help the salmon, but if it reduces demands for dam removal, it is worth the $billions. It's all a big PR game. Salmon and their predators evolved to need big free flowing rivers and the surprising thing is that they have survived this long in that system.

I believe both the numbers increased dramatically and the average size of pikeminnows increased when the impoundments provided perfect habitat for them, thus the power company is somewhat responsible for the decrease in salmon, they are using these payments as a form of mitigation. The pikeminnow have been eating salmon for eons but it only became a problem when the reservoirs were built. The problem with the program is that we will only realize it's failure when there are no more salmon. Think about using a bandaid when sutures are needed.

If you go out to fish and are promised $6 each, your interest might lag fairly quick, but if every cast has the promise of a $500 bill, your interest will likely last longer. And the more news reports are generated by lucky anglers hooking the big pay fish the more attention is on the program rather than the dams.

Yes but they did that without the dams. And yes it is short sighted, the only way to fix the salmon problem is take out a bunch of dams and then follow that by a moratorium on salmon fishing or at least severe restrictions on salmon fishing. But what the power companies have found out is that the people don't really care about the salmon, just give them a few bucks and a red herring. . The salmon have survived a long time, let them be extinct, we need that power to wash our cars, water our lawns and cool our shopping centers. The pikeminnows flourish in the impoundments, the salmon not so much. We are in a conspiracy to destroy the salmon.

Image of a cut throat shows few spots near head and forked tail, but it also shows some pink line and no white on fins- Image of RedBand trout with red gill plates and white tip lower fins- a large part of the Mo trout heritage I think, if we believe the McCloud River story A female rainbow showing more pink/purple on gill plate and still has the white edge on lower fin and many spots near head and gill plate

I've caught a number of trout in RRSP that looked like that, in years past. Some Coastal rainbow genetics, I think. I've also caught rainbows that didn't have a distinct stripe. Cutthroat don't have that many spots around the head, if my memory serves and both cut bows and rainbows should have a bit of white at the tips of fins. The Cutbows should still have fewer spots around head like the cut throat. Both the cut throat and cut bow have more fork in the tail than rainbow. However they were close relatives before man started messing with them and I'm sure that neither species is pure any longer. We have been making them artificially for 140+ years and everybody loves an experiment.

Graphite really shines in long rods and ultra light rods. Not so much in the shorter stuff. I've not found many 6'-7.5' graphite #6 or #7 rods. Don't think I've used a graphite rod that really was at home in tight places or casting unweighted flies at close distances. On the other hand there aren't any 'glass rods that I'd recommend for indicator fishing, or big river-far away-dry fly casting that requires large mends. Generally I prefer shorter rods, #5-#8 and <8' to be glass and >8.5' to be graphite. Currently the only graphite I'm using at all is the Orvis All Rounder from I think '79, designed to feel like their bamboo rods. But if I had to fish the salt again it'd be all modern import graphite.

Browns will be spawning in the fall and that have some color impact, but light conditions and water temperature as well as diet can have an effect on their color, with cold, dark muting the colors and warm or lighter condition brightening them, if I remember right. Eating scuds tend to make flesh and skin orange, I think, and that pond is probably full of scuds. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=taneycomo+scuds&docid=603545967163690000&mid=9172173B9FC9153342719172173B9FC915334271&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

The 1972 Orvis rods were Phillipson and if the joint is a 'glass sleeve with a nickle silver ring they are his Epoxite models, the older Fullflex and Powerflex would have had nickle silver ferrules like all my Phillipsons. the Orvis golden Eagles were all Epoxites. I looked it up and the in house Fullflex "A" (amber) models would have started ~'75 when 3M killed the Phillipson line. The Phillipson name and all old stock now belong to Rick's Rods in Denver who has a lot of vintage parts and components. 1975 would have likely been Orvis' first year building their own graphite rods too. I really like my FF80 and FF75 Fenwicks, but rarely use them, the other Fenwicks are just okay and I like all the two digit Feralites better than the later and more popular three digit models. My favorite 'glass 5wt though is probably a Heddon. Might be my only vintage rod actually marked 5wt, not sure I have any others. The Spartan SP40 is thought to be a Parametric is disguise, I'd try a DT6 on it. Berkley like most rod companies back then used the same base blank with different grades of components and different number of guides to make numerous "models" at differing price points. I think about a dozen different Berkley names are thought to be the same blank. I really like Wright & McGill rods and haven't much use for the Eagle Claw rods that I've seen, and yes they are the same company, but the rods I've seen with Eagle Claw scripted on them were the yellow glass to glass butt over tip joint that is the worst idea in the history of rod building and I'm not sure if all those were Asian made but the Sweet Heart I have was and has the poor QC too. On the other hand the W&M scripted rods with metal ferrules made in Denver seem to all be nice casting rods even with too few guides, I have 7'6" 7wt "Denco" that makes me smile every time I use it. I think there were yellow Denver made rods too, and that they would have metal ferrules.

The fiberglass Fullflex (and I think all Orvis 'glass rods of the time) was made by Bill Phillipson in Denver, same rods that he sold under his name, different label. Later "Fulflex 'A' " rods were made by Orvis in house, I think this started in '72 when 3M bought the Phillipson company and might coincide with their earliest graphite rod production and that was likely a Shakespeare designed shop because Shakespeare was just ahead of Fenwick with graphite rods and actually rolled the first year or two of Orvis graphites according to some accounts. I've forgotten some of the Orvis history. I do like the Phillipson (and consequently the Orvis, LL Bean and Abercrombie & Fitch rods he made) better than the Fenwick equivalents.

It should flex right into the grip, "equal stress at every point along the length of the rod. " and all that. Also the general idea of "Parametric Action" the full load rod curve should what I call "parenthetical" - ( - rather the common progressive bends that resemble an upside down j. It's a feel that I like, rather like what was once called "wet fly action" or what Orvis called "Full Flex". Might take a bit more translational motion in the casting stroke to get the most out of it. My opinion has always been that stiffer rods take less casting skill because they don't bend enough to really get shorter under full load, a deep bending rod makes it a little harder to maintain the straight line path at the rod tip, it introduces a dip in the line path. Interestingly though in the hands of an expert caster, the line follows pretty much the same path and speed out of stiff and bendy as demonstrated by Lasse Karlsson https://vimeo.com/35513634 "Two rods cast at the same time, same line on both, and same linelength. Bendy rod: Berkley Grayphite 8 feet 5/6 Stiff rod: Sage TCX 690 Line Rio tournament Gold 5 weight To make up for the difference in length, the rods where taped together so the tips where aligned. The berkley rod is 75% glassfiber and 25% graphite, has an IP of 97 grams and a AA of 65 (so really according to CCS it's fast ;-)) and a MOI of 76 The sage is full graphite, has an IP of 167 grams, an AA of 74 and a MOI of 70 Several things to learn about tackle here." Lasse did another version of this a while later using rods of the same length, with similar results, IIRC. He also demonstrates overlining with a 12 weight Rio Outbound on a #3 Echo carbon 6'6" - a cast of about 112' I think; but the distance casters often go the other way using #5 line on #7 or #8 rods. It seems the rod ratings are just guesses of what most customers will feel comfortable with. Highly subjective guesses. The numbers in the above quote (IP, AA, are from the Common Cents System of determining rod characteristics objectively) https://common-cents.info/

I know of them more than about them, never having owned one. Curt Gowdy had his name on a a lot of them, the ones with the fancy trim and more guides. Many people say they are good casters. Sometime in the mid or late '70s Berkley moved rod production to Taiwan, the made in USA dates the rod to before that move. Berkley produced a bunch of Parametrics and they have enough fans that for a while I was looking for one on eBay and other places, saw lot's of pictures of them, spinning rods and fly, rods but all Parametric., the few nice fly rods that I saw went for more money than I would bid. Yours is different from any that I've seen , it's the only one I ever saw a picture of or read about that has a wood insert seat. If that is maybe walnut grain plastic that would be typical of the Gowdy rods. I've never seen pictures of one with the wood grain wrap either. The ferrules should spigot male and sleeve reinforced female, I think.The Gowdy series and some others of the late '60s on used spigots, (no one but Fenwick used tip over butt before about 1980 when the patent ran out but a few manufactures did use sleeves on the tip section to make similar joint, a few also used butt over tip joints, Daiwa comes to mind, but not before the late '60s I think). So any glass to glass joint dates later than 1963 when Fenwick started it, but I think not too many before ca 1970. The Parametric name has collectors arguing over whether the action is parabolic or not, and no one that I'm aware of has really defined parabolic action, Charles Ritz designed and sold a lot of Parabolic rods but he said that it was just a term with no meaning. I had to look for this quote that I'd seen from the Victor Johnson (father)& Victor Johnson (son) book "Fiberglass Fly Rods" they said "Computers were used by Berkley to design the Para/Metric's curved taper so that as the rod bent, there was equal stress at every point along the length of the rod. Equal stresses eliminated the kickback problem so common in most rods and allowed casting characteristics that were identical regardless of the length and weight of the rod." I believe I've read that the taper is concave along it's length, but the computer comment's significance is that it kinda dates the rod too. Now in all the Parametrics that I looked at over a few years, I've seen just one marked as a #4, I've never even seen one marked as #5 and most users report that even the 6'3" are #6-7. However I under line most vintage rods fiberglass and graphite for overhead casting. (I tend to think the conversion charts from letter to number were off a 1/2 weight) and almost anyone coming from graphite to 'glass will want to call all six weights and some seven weights #4. I'd try it with a #6 at least and a slow stroke and if it feels better to you with a #4 go back to that. I think you made about $80 profit when you bought that one.

Phil, will you post a link to the video in this thread?

It depends on the type berries, I had June bearing strawberries and did what Dutch said. However if you have ever bearing strawberries I think they need to be worked in fall/winter or spring, I never kept those, so I'm not sure when is best. Do a web search for your variety. Not related, but when I was kid this county was full of strawberry fields, they said one year that nine rail car loads of berries were shipped in a month locally. Then all that disappeared and I don't know why. I do remember that you want them on an east facing slope so that morning sun removes the dew and lets you work them earlier in the day and the slope means you can work uphill and not have to stoop so far. Lots of bend overs in an acre of strawberries.

one he posted https://forums.ozarkanglers.com/topic/472-the-mohawk-sculpin/#comment-1722 https://www.feather-craft.com/keeney-s-hibernator

I always wondered about those EBS tests on radio and TV and this no different, who are they broadcasting to? you know that any emergency action by government or military will be done in secret "need to know" just as it always has been and if there was a real emergency who would have power to run the TV to hear the broadcast?

That's probably the same as a Cortland Crown or Glading if you are looking for a parts donor, BFR I think. There is a Texan on fiberglass and bamboo forums that likes/collects/repairs the JWY reels, if your facebook screw doesn't work out, he would know the size and source. 3" reels aren't that common, but I imagine the latch cover screws interchange.

My guess 3/32" -48 Whitworth Does the reel foot fit the seats on the rods you have? because some of the earlier JWY feet didn't fit modern rods and there are after market feet available.

If there is fastener specialty store near you, they might have a suitable metric screw that a hardware wouldn't have. And it just occurred to me that if the screw is metric, the reel must be post 1965 when Britain made the change. Otherwise it might be a British BSW size that would hard to find in US.

https://www.archuletasreelworks.com/fly-reel-service-repair is frequently recommended https://www.orcaonline.org/ is a good source of old reel info I only know what I read about British reels but I'd have said that early J. W. Young was considered equal to Hardy by some collectors. Back in the '70s when I looked at them, I didn't think the British reels were as well designed as the Medalist was (and I still don't) so I've never bought one, but they sure are more collectable. Young sold a lot of his stuff wholesale under other names particularly Allcocks, but also many others including Hardy, Garcia, Shakespeare, Orvis, Farlow, Milward etc.; so same reels might have different names. I'm always looking but in my area I very rarely find fly tackle and when I do it's usually of no value. Well, I used to always be looking, we don't do yard sales so much in the past few years.

They test them with a cotton ball in Co. according to stuff on the web. But if you aren't going to enforce the barbless reg with that kind of test, there is no point in having it. We really should test them as we tie them or as we bend the barbs on stuff we buy. What ever shirt or socks you normally wear will probably work.

Less than 5% of the population buy hunting permits, so not sure that has any bearing, just not many people hunt. ~16% of the population buy fishing permits , but most are likely fishing near their homes, so in an area devoid of Russians you might not expect to see Russians fishing. And on a large reservoir you might also only see wealthy people fishing because low income folks tend to buy groceries instead of luxury boats. I have fished in places where there were as many black fishermen or more than there were of any other group. But they were local, not tourists. How many of your neighbors are of minorities? Do you see a lot of Hopi hunters and fishermen around there? Tipping should be outlawed anyway, make the employers pay wait staff a living wage or salary commensurate to skill and experience. It takes just as much skill and customer management to serve a $30 plate as it does to serve a $100 plate but you are expected to pay the $30 server $6 and the $100 server $30. And the cost of six servers is already built into the price of the food. It's a barbaric practice left over from medieval times when servants were unpaid serfs/slaves, giving a gratuity indicates superiority and accepting it acknowledges inferiority. But no I've never noticed who tips or how much, did you used to work for tips, or how do you know this? Slavery in Bible times was not the kind of slavery that existed in the 17th-19th centuries, most Biblical slaves were voluntary having sold themselves to pay debts or such, or betrothed as a maid sold by a father, it was a form of employment, and if a slave ran away, it was illegal to return the slave to the master. If memory serves the period of slavery ended at the 7th year. The stealing of a man as was done when Spanish enslaved the natives or Africans were taken from their homes or the Irish were transported by the British to be sold as slaves was punishable by death. The whole chapter must be taken together not just a single line extracted used out of context. The line before your example states that if the servant dies the master must be punished for that, only if the servant lives is the master to escape punishment. The take away is not that it is good to beat the servant, just that it is legal to. When the slave recovers from the beating he is free to leave that master.

Interesting, stuff I've read has indicated SMB prefer water temperatures in the mid-60s to mid-70s, while largemouth bass prefer water temps in the upper 70s to mid 80s. I think Ozark springs run in high 50s, ~58F maybe. Any place a few yards from the actual spring should be in the 60s in summer. My limited experience has made me think that SMB are just always more active and more nomadic than LMB and that SMB are more likely to be sight hunters while LMB are ambush hunters more often triggered by sound than sight. But, I've only fished for them in moving water and have never fished for real SMB, only the Neosho, strain which might behave differently. Where I lived in the east the only black bass were LMB (introduced) and they were very predictable and relatively easy to catch, unlike my experience in the Elk drainage where I rarely catch a LMB over 11" but have caught quite a few larger Neosho bass, which I would have thought equally active at all temperatures above the high 40s as long as the light is right. I'd have guessed them to be more crepuscular, and LMB to be more nocturnal, but then I haven't fished much during the middle of the day with a scorching sun overhead. I'd have also guessed that SMB (based on the Neosho strain) fed more on top than LMB in general. The temperature thing surprises me, with LMB being southern and SMB being northern naturally. I wonder if that avoidance of cooler water is not the SMB intolerance but that of the local forage fish.

How cold is that? and what makes it that cold? The SMB is native to the Great Lakes region and the Hudson Bay drainage, I'd have thought they were fairly cold hearty.