200 mecury black max

[fishinwrench]

Yessir. 

1/2oz. Crock-O-Gator with a Guido bug on it.  

[hung on a rock]

I did the compression check today on all 6 cylinders.   5 were 90 psi 1 was 89 psi on a cold engine. All the plugs looked the same, a little oil no water that I could see . Checked the fuel on the out going side of fuel pump shot out in a good steam. The gas looked ok although I am not overly sure what bad gas would look like unless it was obvious. Hooked up the muffs and she fired right up. The plugs were all just past finger tight. I put them back just a touch tighter. Is this correct?  Thanks for all your help and dam that was a nice bass!

[Jerry Rapp]

6 hours ago, fishinwrench said:

Yessir. 

1/2oz. Crock-O-Gator with a Guido bug on it.  

if you still have any of the old black/blue Crock O Gator ringed lizards, cut off the head and thread the rest of that lizard on that jig.  You won't get many bites, but.......

[fishinwrench]

That's some pretty low compression for a 2.5 liter Merc, but if all cylinders are about the same we'll call it good for now.  

You're gonna have to catch it when it is being hard to start....and check the ignition spark and fuel pressure.   

For now it wouldn't hurt to check all the ground connections (Coils, Switch boxes, and Main ground at the lower starter bracket).  A loose or dirty ground wire may be causing the intermittent hard start. 

[hung on a rock]

Excellent thank you again. I have checked the connections but I will check again and clean them all . I could be missing  one someplace. I appreciate all your advise .

[RangerR83]

I had a '89 150 black max and it was hard to start the 1st time out each trip. There was a certain sequence it liked and if you varied from it, it was a booger. First you'd have to pump the bulb til it was hard, then you'd have to make sure after backing the boat in the motor was trimmed level. Then you'd have to choke it by pushing the key in and holding it in for a solid 6-8 count, then turn the key in an effort to start the motor. 9 times out of 10 it would not start but it would try to hit. You would then have to advance the throttle in neutral and turn the key again and it would usually start then. If it did you could bring the throttle back to the neutral/starting position and let it warm up. If it didn't start you'd have to go thru the process again and it usually started for sure the 2nd time.  Hope this helps.

[fishinwrench]

 The majority of hard-start problems on carb motors are caused from a weak starter.  It just doesn't spin the motor fast enough to produce a strong (hot) spark, or to suck enough fuel through the slightly tired reeds.

Or a primer that only lets enough extra fuel in to fire a couple cylinders.  The few cylinders that get the extra cold-start fuel usually end up flooded before the other cylinders get lit good. 

Sometimes you have both a weak starter AND a half-assed primer system.  In this case you can either spend 1000 bucks....or you can just learn it's quirky little pattern to get it started every morning.   Typically once she's lit and taken a few good breaths it's turn key starts the rest of the day.

[hung on a rock]

 

Thanks RangerR83, i wouldn't have to write that all down in check list to remember it. Mine either starts and runs perfect or won't start, I Can tell immediately whether it will start or not. I have started it every day this week with muffs and it has started right up. I have cleaned every connection and did not notice anything . I will fish the high school tournament on Stockton sunday but not get out of trolling motor range, hopefully all will be ok. I have noticed in past post fishinwrench you do not like the "magic additives" what would you recommend? 

[fishinwrench]

No I don't care for additives of any kind.  Neither did my instructors where I trained.  When I'm trying to diagnose a running issue I want nothing EXTRA in the fuel.  Just clean fresh fuel. 

I have torn down many MANY engines, some that were run religiously from day #1 with the latest/greatest additive on the market, and others that weren't.   The difference in carbon deposits throughout, and carb/vapor seperator/injector sludge is 100% undetectable.  

I'm convinced that fuel additives do nothing but cost you money for no good reason.  Try to burn the fuel you have soon afteryou buy it and don't try to "save" it.  Keep the fuel in your tank as fresh as possible.  Guys with 4-strokes love to brag about how they only burned 4 gallons of fuel all day.....Well then why'd you buy 25 gallons???!!!!

[Ketchup]

Hey Hung, where are you located?