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Posted
46 minutes ago, Al Agnew said:

You don't have to end up with those nubs.  Just pull the thread slightly under the wrap, just enough to hold it there, then clip off the end of it so that just a very small portion is still sticking out, then pull it the rest of the way through.  If you've cut off the thread at the right length, the end doesn't quite come out.

Curious about this. I can’t picture what you’re saying. 

John

Posted

Started in high school 50 years ago when Herters was "the" catalog to buy fishing stuff. Got out of it during the KIDS years but have made 20 or so the last couple of years. You really have to make them a labor of love and customize them for yourself. You can buy a serviceable graphite rod for $25. Can't come close to that for just a blank. Great for the winter months. Just finishing a new drop shot rod for myself. Its a real bang to catch that 1st fish on something you made. Enjoy!

Posted

I don't have nubs i have drips, i use a razor blade and then run branishing tool over it.

I just ordered MHX blank kit 4-8 pound line full grip EVA foam, cork is 17 bucks more.

 

I know everything about nothing and know nothing about everything!

Bruce Philips

Posted

Good cork is hard to find and pricey. Buddy of mine orders cork rings by the thousand to shape his grips and let’s me pick through his stash, and use his lathe when I build one. Usually around $30 plus a 12 pack of Nat Light.

 

Posted

The important part of a cork ring is the inner circle.  You can fill all the other voids with a paste made from cork dust and wood glue. Use some 60 grit paper or a rasp to make your dust so that it isn't too fine.

Posted
On 2/27/2018 at 9:09 AM, 176champion said:

I made a mistake and turn my rod drier off as i thought my epoxy had dried enough and i had to leave and when i came back i have little dribbles on my thread areas, guess it wasn't as dry as i thought.

Epoxy is hard to work with in a cool dry environment.   The best cures happen in warm humid weather.   

It actually needs moisture from the air to set up, and the more the better (up to a point I'm sure).  

Posted
17 minutes ago, fishinwrench said:

Epoxy is hard to work with in a cool dry environment.   The best cures happen in warm humid weather.   

It actually needs moisture from the air to set up, and the more the better (up to a point I'm sure).  

It say on the tubes 70 - 80 degrees working temperatures and i had house at 70 so that was also an issue im sure.

Im not a fan of cork grips because of my oily hands and the cork seems to get dirty easily from my hands, transmission fluid soaks into the skin...lol

I know everything about nothing and know nothing about everything!

Bruce Philips

Posted

I've been doing my work in a 50 to 60 degree garage. I have to leave the epoxy (Pro Coat) dryer motor run about 24 hours but its been working out alright. Sometimes I will use a work light to try to get some heat, moving it from wrap to wrap occasionally. We still need more details from Al, as to how he hides those thread nubs.

Posted

I'm talking popper bodies here but still using some of the same types of epoxies. I like them to cure as slow as possible. I just seem to get a much better finish. Maybe a little heat in the beginning to untrap some bubbles then it's turning as long as it needs. 

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, 176champion said:

It say on the tubes 70 - 80 degrees working temperatures and i had house at 70 so that was also an issue im sure.

Im not a fan of cork grips because of my oily hands and the cork seems to get dirty easily from my hands, transmission fluid soaks into the skin...lol

Oh... Ding-ding-ding !

I need a good transmission guy.  Preferably one with a boat that likes the barter system. B)

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